howling sound from clutch/throwout bearing???

[nmcgrawj]

Earlier in the summer, my clutch or throw out bearing started to do the infamous "crickett" sound. Then it stopped doing it for a while unil now.....

Now it is a howling when the transmission is cold. It goes away when the clutch is fully engaged (Pedal all the way up) and when the transmission heats up. Is this still the throw out bearing or has something else worn down????

I am already planning on getting a Spec Stage 1 clutch (stock except for exhaust/gears/cai) so what else do i need to have replaced???

Rear main seal, clutch package (TOB included), what else? and what are the prices of these extra repairs? Does the rear main seal cost a lot? I know there shouldn't be much extra labor.....

Im 18, in college and no access to the right tools to do it myself, so a shop will most likely be doing it. Do u know what the going rate for a clutch is at shops now a days?

THANKS
NATE

 

[Rootus]

The rear main seal is cheap, labor to install it should be minimal.

If I were you, I'd think about replacing the clutch pivot ball (or whatever Ford is calling it ), the clutch release arm, clutch cable, and the input shaft bearing retainer (if it hasn't already been replaced with a steel one). These were things I noticed were worn quite a bit when I rebuilt my 100k mile T-5. Should't be terribly expensive to replace, either. It goes without saying that you should make sure the flywheel is resurfaced as part of the clutch replacement. Any reputable shop should do that without being asked.

In the meantime, you could try spraying the TOB with white lithium grease (remove the bellhousing dust cover for access), that might shut it up for a couple thousand miles.

Dave

 

[nmcgrawj]

Thanks....

THANKS FOR THE INFO SO FAR, ANY OTHER COMMENTS ARE WELCOMED!!!


Another question for ya, Do you think its worth the extra 70 bucks or so to go ahead and get a Spec Stage 2? I found one for 269, but i was thinking that i wont be pushing ALOT of power for atleast another 2 yrs. But, should i just go ahead and get it now?

I think i will, but could someone tell me some differences (feel, grabbing, etc) that i will experience between the Stage 1 and Stage 2????

THANKS AGAIN
Nate

 

[Rootus]

Another question for ya, Do you think its worth the extra 70 bucks or so to go ahead and get a Spec Stage 2? I found one for 269, but i was thinking that i wont be pushing ALOT of power for atleast another 2 yrs. But, should i just go ahead and get it now?

I think i will, but could someone tell me some differences (feel, grabbing, etc) that i will experience between the Stage 1 and Stage 2????

How much power are you planning on? The stage 1 has a nice stock feel and grabs pretty good -- I have one installed right now.

Dave

 

[nmcgrawj]

Expected power.........

In the next couple of years, h/c/i. Or maybe just intake and a supercharger of some sort. But in the range of 3XX HP.But in years to come it will certainly be at a much higher power level.But for now Certainly not more than 400 hp of what i think the Stage 1 is rated at.

But i was just wondering if i should just go ahead and get the spec stage 2. Or should i just save my money and get the Stage 1 and just wait for when the time comes to replace/rebuild the tranny to get a stage 2 or 3?


THANKS AGAIN
Nate

 

[Rootus]

IMHO, the Stage 1 is probably as good as the tranny. I haven't had any clutch slippage issues, and I'm putting down just a tad over 300 to the wheels. But my tranny is getting quite noisy after repeated trips down the strip, I'm pretty sure it's going to give up before the clutch will. I'd say save the money until later -- if you upgrade the tranny you'll have to upgrade the clutch anyway.

Dave

 

[nmcgrawj]

Stage 1 it is then, where should i get it from? How much did u pay?

THANKS
Nate

 

[Rootus]

I got mine from modernperformancenw.com, not sure how much I actually paid for it. He's listing them right now at $179.

Dave

 

[mo_dingo]

Like said above, replace everything you can (except the bell housing).

You don't want to have to yank the transmission just for the rear main leaking or something like that.

Replace the pilot bearing, clutch release lever, the ball on the bell housing that the clutch release lever pivots on, (TOB, pressure plate, clutch disc all included w/ clutch kit), rear main seal, transmission fluid changed, and resurface/replace the flywheel.

BTW, you can get a stock replacement flywheel from autozone (special order, only takes two days. Resurfacing costs $35, replacement is $50. Just get a new flywheel. For $50, you will be very happy. The clutch disc will enjoy the BRAND NEW SURFACE.

Ever turned your drums/rotors. Did they still squel, even after the pads were replaced w/ turned rotors? It is very common. Same principal applies.......Getting flywheel resurfaces is good. New one is better. New one will allow the clutch disc to last for another 70-100k miles. Resurfacing will probably allow for 50k miles. You choose.

Now that is my opinion. Other clutch discs may last longer that 50k w/ only resurfacing, but I wouldn't temp fate.

Unfortunately, when I replaced my clutch, I had very little money, and the car was undriveable, so I had to settle for just resurfacing the flywheel.

BTW, the problem with getting stage 2/3/4 clutch kits means the pressure plate applies much more pressure on the crankshaft. There is a bearing on the 3rd cylinder of the crank, and that bearing will be put under the added force. I think it would be stupid to have to rebuild a motor b/c the clutch was TOO heavy duty.

You posted that you wanted 3XX hp, but there is a big difference between 300 and 399, know what I mean?

H/C/I will get you to 310 HP to the wheels w/ a good AFR setup. Check out killer's car. If you do a blower w/ 6-10 PSI, I think you will see the same numbers, about 310 HP. The stock clutch pressure will be enough for this setup, IMO. If you go to www.specclutch.com , you will see the torque ratings for each stage. 400 ft/lbs of torque is the rating for stage 1.
Scott

 

[Rootus]

BTW, the problem with getting stage 2/3/4 clutch kits means the pressure plate applies much more pressure on the crankshaft. There is a bearing on the 3rd cylinder of the crank, and that bearing will be put under the added force. I think it would be stupid to have to rebuild a motor b/c the clutch was TOO heavy duty.

Bzzzz, wrong . The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel, not the engine block, so having a stronger pressure plate does not result in a change in the pressure applied to the crank. All it does is squeeze the clutch disc tighter in between the pressure plate and flywheel.

Dave