I am THOUGHROUGLY convinced that my front pass wheel stick out more than the drivers

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.
10 Year Member
Jan 8, 2006
1,269
19
99
Louisiana
Heres why. For some reason I just saw that it looke dlike it was, I fiigured it was maybe just the wheel was turned, but its not that. And here are a few pics in which you can plainly see the passenger side tire throws alot more mud alot higher on the car, which makes me think its sticking out more.heres some pics of the mud sling and a top view. Do you think this is maybe something an alignment would fix? cause I am getting some lowering springs and would like to get this fixed before. And would it affect the drop if I DIDNT get it fixed? Thanks.

Drivers side sling:
View attachment 449843

Passenger side sling:
View attachment 449845

Top View:
View attachment 449847


EDIT: And the sling isnt from one side going through more mud than the other. It does this ALL the time.
 
Chances are it is. This is a fairly common problem on foxbody mustangs as well. It is made much more noticable when you switch to wider aftermarket wheels/tires.

The reason as explained to me is because Ford starts their tolerance stack up for the front suspension on the driverside rather than the center of the vehicle. What this does is effectivly throw all +- tolerance towards/away from driverside. Some k-members are slotted and aligned better than others which means some get lucky and some dont. The only real way to fix it is to either slot the factory k-member mounting holes to allow for lateral movement or find a factory k-member which matches your frame better. I'd say the first option would be much easier than the latter.
 
The Green GT said:
What do you mean by slot it? Make the hols a littl bigger to one side and scoot it over about an 18th of an inch, then tighten the bolts back down?

You'll have to drop the k-member slightly and slot out the factory holes to allow for side to side movement. Afterwards you'll probably need a front end alignment due to the shift.
 
millhouse said:
You'll have to drop the k-member slightly and slot out the factory holes to allow for side to side movement. Afterwards you'll probably need a front end alignment due to the shift.
How hard is this. I am going to have the car on a lift next week so I may do this.

Would it affect my drop if I didnt fix it before I dropped it?
 
The Green GT said:
So if mine os off, does that mean it is slotted, or that it just may be slotted?

I'm not quite sure about the sn95 k-members, but my fox k-member was not slotted. Chances are you will have to slot it yourself. To do so you'll have to support the engine via a hoist while you drop the k-member. Before the k comes down however you'll have to unload your suspension, remove the springs etc. It's not going to be a "piece of cake" no matter which way you cut it. The real question is ...how much does it bug ya really?
 
the passenger side spindle may have been replaced with a 96+

94/95 had their own specific spindles. 96+ they revised the spindle design and it pushed the wheel out 8mm per side. this could be your problem :shrug:
 
urban96 said:
the passenger side spindle may have been replaced with a 96+

94/95 had their own specific spindles. 96+ they revised the spindle design and it pushed the wheel out 8mm per side. this could be your problem :shrug:
Ill have to look at that. Ill try to measure both sides and see if there is an 8mm difference. How much does a new spindle cost aprox.? And is there anyway I can tell from lookign at it while its still on the car?
 
no clue and no clue

i found that out when i was doing some trolling in the fox 5.0 section. our year spindles are preferred by them because it keeps the wheels in the same position as stock when they do the 5 lug swap.

also the 96+ has better geometry and is an upgrade for us or something like that?
 
urban96 said:
also the 96+ has better geometry and is an upgrade for us or something like that?
Hmm. Well Id rather have both of my wheels stick out the same distance for now. Maybe when I am making some real power I can worry about that. lol
 
I have the same exact problem accept its my drivers wheel that sticks out about a 1/4 inch or so more than my passenger. With my 9in wheels the passenger is nice and flush and my drivers is out of the fender. I just did a new Kmember new A-arms..basically a whole new front suspension. The PA Racing Kmember did not really have any play for adjusting the K-member. Once i get the car all back together and aligned(cause it is WAYYYYYY out of wack) i cant wait to see if it still sticks out. I guess if it does ill talk to PA and see what they have to say.
 
WhiteDevil said:
I have the same exact problem accept its my drivers wheel that sticks out about a 1/4 inch or so more than my passenger. With my 9in wheels the passenger is nice and flush and my drivers is out of the fender. I just did a new Kmember new A-arms..basically a whole new front suspension. The PA Racing Kmember did not really have any play for adjusting the K-member. Once i get the car all back together and aligned(cause it is WAYYYYYY out of wack) i cant wait to see if it still sticks out. I guess if it does ill talk to PA and see what they have to say.
Is your car lowered?
 
The Green GT said:
Is your car lowered?
Yeah before the K-member and other new suspesion parts i had Steeda springs, MM Caster cambers, and Tokico shocks and struts. Did not make a difference and neither did my front end alignment. I have both 94-95 spindles, i was hoping that would be my problem, but they are both stock. I hope the new Kmember will help but i dont know.
 
WhiteDevil said:
Yeah before the K-member and other new suspesion parts i had Steeda springs, MM Caster cambers, and Tokico shocks and struts. Did not make a difference and neither did my front end alignment. I have both 94-95 spindles, i was hoping that would be my problem, but they are both stock. I hope the new Kmember will help but i dont know.
Ok, well good to know it won affect my drop.