I Cant Take It Anymore Help Me!!!!!!

69Rcode_Mach1

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
#1
Guys I swear I am retarded or something. I cannot seem to get my car started. I have fuel and spark, and the firing order is correct. The problem is that I cannot seem to stab the distributor properly. Are there any tips to doing this that will help me get it ready to go. I had it set at perfect TDC when I put in the new oil pump, but unfortunately it was 180 degrees off(I assume this because my mighty demon was misting gas and smoke out of the top of the idle air bleeds which is the blow out protection). So now I have been trying my ass of to get this thing right. I have gotten close to the point where I have it touching the water neck and it is ready to start, but can't breathe on its on without the starter. I have tried moving it a tooth or two clockwise but every damn time I do that it just flatlines and I don't even get little chugs. Someone explain this to me like you would a child, I have searched the threads over and over again but cannot seem to get it right. Are the high points where the spark makes contact withthe points and goes to the plugs? If I get it set at perfect 0 should it be on the #1 cylinder high point? I usually get the teeth to mesh and then crank the engine by hand to get it to go down on the oil pump shaft. It has been really chapping my balls for the last two days. HELP ME I AM GOING CRAZY!!!!!!!!:bang: :bang: :bang:
 
#2
Don't be looking at the points, look at which terminal on the distributor the rotor is pointing at. You want it pointing at the terminal for the #1 cylinder when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center COMPRESSION.

It's easy to find TDC just by cranking the balancer bolt with a socket wrench, with a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole feeling for the piston to come up. When it's close, you rock the crank back and forth and find exact TDC. The hard part is finding TDC compression, rather than TDC exhaust. You can take off the valve cover and watch for the intake valve to close while the piston's on the way up. Or you can hold your thumb over the spark plug hole and tap the solenoid with a pliers, and feel for the rush of air.

If your timing marks are reliable, you can be watching them too, to see that you're at TDC. But the timing marks won't tell you whether it's the exhaust or compression stroke.
 
#3
I marked my dist to show where #1 is with the cap off. Pull #1 sparkplug, turn over the engine 'til you feel the compression stroke of #1. Once you know what stroke it is on, just move it to the timing mark. That is close enough for stabbing the dist. Line up the rotor with the mark on the dist for #1 and snug it down, loose enough to turn it. Put on the cap and #1 plug and try it. I used a screw driver on the solenoid to start mine, allowing me to move the dist with the other hand until it started.
 
#5
Well I got her started apparently the idle circuit was closed heh heh..... Anyway now I have a new problem I can't time it. I have the timing marker set and I have verified TDC but for some reason the timing light shows like 50 degrees timing which we all know is not possible. What could cause these miscalculations? And it dies if I go any lower than that.
 
#6
I also verified that it was the correct timing pointer and set visually from underneath with the oil pan off when I was putting in the oil pump. I also made sure that it wasn't 180 degrees out by sticking my finger in there and cranking till it got blown off. So we should be set, I am going to be getting a piston stop today just to confirm TDC one more time accurately so we can cross that off the list. The timing light I am using is a piece of crap as well, maybe that is why? It worked fine on my friends camaro though. It is a standard light, no advance and settings like that. Just point and shoot. Hope that helps us find a conclusion.
 
#10
Yeah, my first question was going to be are you sure the light is connected to the number one. My second question was why are you using a timing light? Unless you are attempting to rerset the car to the stock timing spec (very enemic) or are absolutely bent on knowing what your optimal timing is, then the best tool you could be using is your own ear. You should give your car as much timing as it likes, even cars with the same setups can like diffeent timing. Simply advance it until you start to ping then back it of a couple degrees, that is your optimal timing. Just as an example my stock setting should be 6*BTDC but my car runs WAY better at 13*BTDC.

BTW while your at it, why not dump the points for a Pertronix kit, you'll be much happier in the end. I've had single and dual point systems and I can say that it is nice to have them finally crossed off the list of gremlins that plague our cars regularly.
 
#11
I will definitely change to a pertronix down the road, don't have cash right now. Light is hooked up to #1 cylinder for sure. I was thinking of doing it by ear, but would also like to have a baseline. I don't know what pinging sounds like, that is why I am worried about doing it by ear. The car is so loud I am worried I wouldn't hear it. I am getting a piston stop right now, so I will know where the damn thing is for sure. Any other suggestions?
 
#12
Just to let you know, you will only hear the pinging when under load while accelerating or going uphill. I set mine for best performance and noted that it was at 12*BTDC for easy setting with a light if I'm working on the car without having to test drive between setting.

It will ping if I run it on regular gas though, but midgrade is fine. I'm sure I could run the cheap gas if I retard the spark a bit, but I couldn't stand the poorer performance.
 
#17
Alright. The car is running right ? Stick the timing marker to the number 1 plug wire. Don't worry about what you thought it was on the dizzy(:D iskwezm). Just plug to the wire coming off the front passenger side plug wire. If it still reads 50 BTDC, lower it as far as you can before it dies. Then test the vacuum. If the timing marks are correct, but doesn't idle extremely, you may have a vacuum leak.
Don't worry about timing at idle, it can't detonate at idle.
How far out are the idle mixture screws ? Having them too far in would cause a need for a ton of timing to get it to run.
 
#18
Yeah the car is running, I ran it last night pulled the plugs and they were black so I just turned the screws in a half turn because it was rich. I just started it for 10 seconds and it died and I think I flooded it trying to start it again so I need a little time so that I can let it clear, then I will start and get back to you guys.
 
#19
I was talking to Ronstang, and he had an idea. I verified TDC at 0 degrees with a piston stop on my damper. So I put it at 10 degrees then marked where the number one plug hooked to the cap on the dist. Then I took off the cap and turned the distributor to the mark, and that puts the vacuum advance at around 4-5 oclock if you are looking at the car from the front. Which means it should be at 10 degrees no matter what or atleast pretty close. If that helps you guys with anything, maybe it is another factor. I will try pumping the carb a couple times and crank it and see if it starts.
 
#20
Shouldn't take but a minute or two to clear up. Or you can hold the carb at half throttle while cranking.
Ronstang's idea is a good one. But remember that the rotor will turn a little as it goes in. So make sure it is aligned AFTER is fully drops in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
1997 3.8l v6 timing cover mismatch *eBay guaranteed fit* haha please HELP
Replies
0
Views
87
SN95 V6 Mustang Tech
chasondragons
C
H
Ongoing Battle With Hydraulic Lifters
Replies
7
Views
119
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Noobz347
Noobz347
Kabuki_notch
Tunerstudio help / services
Replies
2
Views
233
Digital Self-tuning Forum
Mustang5L5
Mustang5L5
snowstang
Who the hell puts the wrong spark plugs in a 3.8L?
Replies
12
Views
380
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
LILCBRA
LILCBRA
T
2002 V6 3.8L Help Me
Replies
50
Views
680
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
TheIncompetentMechanic
T
Top Bottom
Back
Forums
Menu