I Cant Take It Anymore Help Me!!!!!!

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 2, 2005

#1

• Nov 2, 2005

• #1

Guys I swear I am retarded or something. I cannot seem to get my car started. I have fuel and spark, and the firing order is correct. The problem is that I cannot seem to stab the distributor properly. Are there any tips to doing this that will help me get it ready to go. I had it set at perfect TDC when I put in the new oil pump, but unfortunately it was 180 degrees off(I assume this because my mighty demon was misting gas and smoke out of the top of the idle air bleeds which is the blow out protection). So now I have been trying my ass of to get this thing right. I have gotten close to the point where I have it touching the water neck and it is ready to start, but can't breathe on its on without the starter. I have tried moving it a tooth or two clockwise but every damn time I do that it just flatlines and I don't even get little chugs. Someone explain this to me like you would a child, I have searched the threads over and over again but cannot seem to get it right. Are the high points where the spark makes contact withthe points and goes to the plugs? If I get it set at perfect 0 should it be on the #1 cylinder high point? I usually get the teeth to mesh and then crank the engine by hand to get it to go down on the oil pump shaft. It has been really chapping my balls for the last two days. HELP ME I AM GOING CRAZY!!!!!!!!

 

1

180 Out

Member

Jul 23, 2005

375

0

16

Nov 2, 2005

#2

• Nov 2, 2005

• #2

Don't be looking at the points, look at which terminal on the distributor the rotor is pointing at. You want it pointing at the terminal for the #1 cylinder when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center COMPRESSION.

It's easy to find TDC just by cranking the balancer bolt with a socket wrench, with a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole feeling for the piston to come up. When it's close, you rock the crank back and forth and find exact TDC. The hard part is finding TDC compression, rather than TDC exhaust. You can take off the valve cover and watch for the intake valve to close while the piston's on the way up. Or you can hold your thumb over the spark plug hole and tap the solenoid with a pliers, and feel for the rush of air.

If your timing marks are reliable, you can be watching them too, to see that you're at TDC. But the timing marks won't tell you whether it's the exhaust or compression stroke.

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

1,964

2

39

Middle TN

Nov 2, 2005

#3

• Nov 2, 2005

• #3

I marked my dist to show where #1 is with the cap off. Pull #1 sparkplug, turn over the engine 'til you feel the compression stroke of #1. Once you know what stroke it is on, just move it to the timing mark. That is close enough for stabbing the dist. Line up the rotor with the mark on the dist for #1 and snug it down, loose enough to turn it. Put on the cap and #1 plug and try it. I used a screw driver on the solenoid to start mine, allowing me to move the dist with the other hand until it started.

 

iskwezm

10 Year Member

May 24, 2005

4,159

20

79

Rowland Heights,California

Nov 2, 2005

#4

• Nov 2, 2005

• #4

I always pull out the #1 plug and "feel" for tdc using a remote starter,then put the distributor(hate when they say DIZZY ) a little before #1 because when it doprs down it will turn the rotor past #1

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 2, 2005

#5

• Nov 2, 2005

• #5

Well I got her started apparently the idle circuit was closed heh heh..... Anyway now I have a new problem I can't time it. I have the timing marker set and I have verified TDC but for some reason the timing light shows like 50 degrees timing which we all know is not possible. What could cause these miscalculations? And it dies if I go any lower than that.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 3, 2005

#6

• Nov 3, 2005

• #6

I also verified that it was the correct timing pointer and set visually from underneath with the oil pan off when I was putting in the oil pump. I also made sure that it wasn't 180 degrees out by sticking my finger in there and cranking till it got blown off. So we should be set, I am going to be getting a piston stop today just to confirm TDC one more time accurately so we can cross that off the list. The timing light I am using is a piece of crap as well, maybe that is why? It worked fine on my friends camaro though. It is a standard light, no advance and settings like that. Just point and shoot. Hope that helps us find a conclusion.

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

1,258

0

36

Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Nov 3, 2005

#7

• Nov 3, 2005

• #7

First of all, don't worry about being 180 out anymore. The car would not run AT ALL if you were. My first instinct is to say that you are timing it with the vacuum advance hooked up. If this is so, disconnect it and try.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 3, 2005

#8

• Nov 3, 2005

• #8

Nope I got the vacuum advance disconnected. I know the 180 degree out feeling heh heh, the carb started misting gas and smoke out of the blowout protection circuit out the top of my car.

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

1,258

0

36

Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Nov 3, 2005

#9

• Nov 3, 2005

• #9

Okay then, do you have the light hooked up to #1 or #5?

 

Pakrat

Founding Member

Aug 6, 2000

3,843

0

56

Currently: NH Originally: Rhode Island (and all po

Nov 3, 2005

#10

• Nov 3, 2005

• #10

Yeah, my first question was going to be are you sure the light is connected to the number one. My second question was why are you using a timing light? Unless you are attempting to rerset the car to the stock timing spec (very enemic) or are absolutely bent on knowing what your optimal timing is, then the best tool you could be using is your own ear. You should give your car as much timing as it likes, even cars with the same setups can like diffeent timing. Simply advance it until you start to ping then back it of a couple degrees, that is your optimal timing. Just as an example my stock setting should be 6*BTDC but my car runs WAY better at 13*BTDC.

BTW while your at it, why not dump the points for a Pertronix kit, you'll be much happier in the end. I've had single and dual point systems and I can say that it is nice to have them finally crossed off the list of gremlins that plague our cars regularly.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 3, 2005

#11

• Nov 3, 2005

• #11

I will definitely change to a pertronix down the road, don't have cash right now. Light is hooked up to #1 cylinder for sure. I was thinking of doing it by ear, but would also like to have a baseline. I don't know what pinging sounds like, that is why I am worried about doing it by ear. The car is so loud I am worried I wouldn't hear it. I am getting a piston stop right now, so I will know where the damn thing is for sure. Any other suggestions?

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

1,258

0

36

Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Nov 3, 2005

#12

• Nov 3, 2005

• #12

Just to let you know, you will only hear the pinging when under load while accelerating or going uphill. I set mine for best performance and noted that it was at 12*BTDC for easy setting with a light if I'm working on the car without having to test drive between setting.

It will ping if I run it on regular gas though, but midgrade is fine. I'm sure I could run the cheap gas if I retard the spark a bit, but I couldn't stand the poorer performance.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 3, 2005

#13

• Nov 3, 2005

• #13

Oh so there is no possible way for it to ping without a load on the engine? I will go with the minimum amount before it dies and then turn the distributor an inch advanced and see if that puts me around 15-17 degrees timing? Sound about right?

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

1,258

0

36

Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Nov 3, 2005

#14

• Nov 3, 2005

• #14

That's pretty far, I wouldn't go much higher than 10 untill you drive it.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 3, 2005

#15

• Nov 3, 2005

• #15

Okay I will experiment with it and see what happens. I created a piston stop and used it to verify TDC and it was the exact same timing set as I thought and it is correct. Now what?!?!?!?! I AM GETTING ANNOYED WITH THIS STUPID PROBLEM!!!!!!

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 3, 2005

#16

• Nov 3, 2005

• #16

Anyone I really gotta get this thing going.

 

1

10secgoal

Active Member

Dec 1, 2003

2,801

3

49

San Diego

Nov 3, 2005

#17

• Nov 3, 2005

• #17

Alright. The car is running right ? Stick the timing marker to the number 1 plug wire. Don't worry about what you thought it was on the dizzyD iskwezm). Just plug to the wire coming off the front passenger side plug wire. If it still reads 50 BTDC, lower it as far as you can before it dies. Then test the vacuum. If the timing marks are correct, but doesn't idle extremely, you may have a vacuum leak.
Don't worry about timing at idle, it can't detonate at idle.
How far out are the idle mixture screws ? Having them too far in would cause a need for a ton of timing to get it to run.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 3, 2005

#18

• Nov 3, 2005

• #18

Yeah the car is running, I ran it last night pulled the plugs and they were black so I just turned the screws in a half turn because it was rich. I just started it for 10 seconds and it died and I think I flooded it trying to start it again so I need a little time so that I can let it clear, then I will start and get back to you guys.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 3, 2005

#19

• Nov 3, 2005

• #19

I was talking to Ronstang, and he had an idea. I verified TDC at 0 degrees with a piston stop on my damper. So I put it at 10 degrees then marked where the number one plug hooked to the cap on the dist. Then I took off the cap and turned the distributor to the mark, and that puts the vacuum advance at around 4-5 oclock if you are looking at the car from the front. Which means it should be at 10 degrees no matter what or atleast pretty close. If that helps you guys with anything, maybe it is another factor. I will try pumping the carb a couple times and crank it and see if it starts.

 

1

10secgoal

Active Member

Dec 1, 2003

2,801

3

49

San Diego

Nov 3, 2005

#20

• Nov 3, 2005

• #20

Shouldn't take but a minute or two to clear up. Or you can hold the carb at half throttle while cranking.
Ronstang's idea is a good one. But remember that the rotor will turn a little as it goes in. So make sure it is aligned AFTER is fully drops in.