I have all kind of problems with this car. Can anyone help?

88 Fox GT

Active Member
Nov 18, 2002
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Iowa
1. My idle is wack. It will range from like 800rpms to 1500rpms. It's over 1000rpms about 80% of the time.

2. I tried adjusting the TPS to see if it was the culprit (since the EEC test said it was out of range) and it wouldn't go below 1.5v. I cannot get it adjusted under 1.5v. Is the TPS bad?

3. I'm getting code 33 that my "EGR valve is not opening properly". Someone told me to stick a hose on the vacuum nipple on the EGR and suck on it to release some diaphram or something. I tried it like twice and heard something pop/click inside of it when I did it. But, I'm still getting the code. I pulled the vacuum line off of it to see if there was any suction coming from it and there wasn't.

4. I just locked my keys in it and have no spare. Any secrets to get the doors or hatch unlocked so I can get in? I hate when s**t doesn't ever go my way. :fuss: :bang: :mad:
 
The fact that you can't get the TPS value down is probably due to the butterfly adjustment screw being so far out of adjustment on the throttle body. Setup your volt meter on the TPS and adjust the screw on the throttle body to get the value down to under 1 volt. The surging may be due to a vacuum leak, but more likely a sticking EGR valve or IAC valve. Take them both off and thoroughly clean them. The screw on the throttle body IS NOT an idle adjustment screw. The idle is set by the computer.
 
do you have 5 volts VRef and a ground with little resistance at the TPS? if not, that can skew the values your DMM reads (and the puter sees)?

you are gonna have to be creative with the lock out situation (wire coat hangers work well, as do slim jims).

good luck.
 
It does sound like a vacuum leak, but still clean the EGR and IAB like JB66 said. Also try and clean around the butterfly.

You can widen the screws on the TPS sensor, but be careful you don't take too much off.

What color wires were you checking on the TPS? Was the screw on the TB messed with prior to checking the volts on the TPS? This was all done with the key on engine off?



Fred
 
I have a set of instructions that I got from here that said to test with the engine running at operating temp.
So, that's how I tested it. Is this not correct?

I probed the green wire with the positive and the black wire with the negative.
 
BTW, did you not get a TPS code? with the reading you are getting, that should have been well outside the adaptive limits (ergo a code).

I doubt it will matter whether you tested the TPS with the car on or not (some very ummmm exact people prefer having it running). I would want to check the VRef and ground wires out though.

I am sure you have seen it, but here is a link to some info on resetting the idle and TPS and all that.

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/iac.php

good luck bud.
 
Well, it hasn't been unreliable to me. It's just that, a fuggin idiot use to own it and screwed with too many things and now it has small problems that annoy the hell out of me.

I have another question.
How much would I expect to pay to have my engine rebuild (freshend up mostly) if I do all the work myself? I will hone my own cylinders and such. In about 2000 miles since the last oil change, I've had to add 3 quarts to it. :notnice:
How much time does it take to pull the engine, rebuild it, and put it back in considering everything goes correctly?

I also am loosing water somewhere, just don't know where yet. So, that's another thing I want to cover when doing the rebuild.