I Just Cant Stop..

2vNotch said:

Looking for a good brake setup for the front of my fox, which is still (and will remain) 4 lug....I just purchased powerslot rotors and will be ordering stainless brake lines and pads. Whats everyones opinions on pads, I know theres a ton out there ? Also may want to upgrade my calipers without spending bookoos...Will cobra calipers mount up and will my weld wheels clear them? Any suggestions?

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Again, gotta refer you to probably the most hands down, end all, definitive tech thread about brake upgrades within this forum. Read that for all of your questions w/ regard to your brakes.

Then, read all of the other threads where 4 lug guys ask what can be done to improve their inadequate braking system.

Then, read all of the other threads where 4 lug guys vow to keep their brake system due to the 4 lug wheels they own, and look to buy an aftermarket brake solution that allows 12"+ rotors while still keeping 4 lugs (me included)

Then, re-read the first thread for details and instructions for converting the thing to 5 lug/Cobra brakes.

Then, go to the classified section and list your 4 lugs wheels for sale.

Sorry for the sarcasm,.....but I just can't stop.

Converting to 5 lug does not cost that much. I did my 5 lug/rear disc conversion for under $400. Deals are out there you just need to find them. Go for V6 stuff it's always cheaper. 7.5 and 8.8 axles shafts are the same. V6/GT calipers & caliper brackets are the same. It's a good amount of work but definitly worth it in the end.

I went through the same thing madmike posted. Then sold my sold my 4 lug Fobra R's. Go 5 lug.

Can't stop, won't stop.

Sometimes I wish I could put pony's back on mine since it is such a classic look, but man do those 13" Cobra brakes stop good.

2vNotch said:

lol thanks guys...(i guess) If I have to, ill keep my stock calipers, Im not changing my wheels and ive already bought the rotors as well...Im sure between those, the stainless lines, and some hawk pads (or whatever kind I go with), itll be fine!

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You're confusing me. On one thread you have this picture of your car w/ the newly installed Eisenhower tunnel on the hood. On another, you elude to a motor build that sounds like it's gonna be the typical, forced induction 700-800 whp drag car. On yet another thread, you are amassing suspension pieces for a drag car. So I take it as I see it.
Drag car, drag car, drag car.

The photos in your album show the car with skinny Weld drag lite looking wheels on front. If in fact you do build some heathen 10 second drag car, even w/ the wusskin 10" rotors the car has on it, the tire's will lock, and push if you stand on the brake pedal hard enough.

Better brakes go hand in hand w/ more rubber on the road. Unless you change that, I wouldn't worry about stopping any better than the wheel will allow.

I added Hawk pads, steel braided lines and remanufactured calipers, rotors and drum hardware. It stops much better than how I got it, but it had 154000 miles. I had to stomp on them to slow. Now, not so bad. I plan on swapping my replicas for the turbines in the future for fun.

If you just don't want to swap, and you're planning on needing some whoa for the 1/4 mile, this might work...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Aerospace-Components/026/AC-222/10002/-1?parentProductId=744439#moreDetails

http://www.jegs.com/i/Aerospace-Components/026/AC-547/10002/-1?parentProductId=744441

I can't really speak for Aerospace Components and their level of performance, but they gotta be better than factory stuff. I thought about buying their stuff a while back, then I just decided to do the SN95 front brakes and SVO flipped rears...seems to have worked well thus far.

Sorry bro-I totally spaced on your question...realized you're just looking for good pads and better calipers...but I guess you already bought the pads.

What was it people used to get? the 73mm Continental or MK VII calipers?

2vNotch said:

Drag car, drag car, drag car....U got it! So wheres the confusion?? When did a 400 c.i. F2 blown engine become "typical" or "10 sec"? The wheels ARE draglites which youll see MOST commonly on many cars at the track, so to make the question clear, what kind of brake setups are being ran, because i knw theyre out there, but also whats a route to go without robbin a bank? I dont think the answer is simply "sell the wheels, convert to 5 lug". And to clear the air for those who obviously DONT/HAVENT read my threads but insist on chiming in with their smart &$$ comments....This car is being street driven now and again at the moment and will continue to be until it cant be anymore, WHILE its taking shape for its new duties! I like my Eisenhower tunnel, in fact I like EVERY d*mned thing about my car, thats why its mine! Is that not why we LOVE them, because it expresses our own different personalities while (for me) still serving a purpose!? Sure your still entitled to your freedom to voice your opinion, (as far as i know), and sometimes its even asked for, but I'm entitled to mine as well and if u wanna nit-pick me and my car to pieces by all means do so but I may just tell you to F*** off! And when thats done you can humble the ol soul by stoppin at ur local autozone and adding another stick-on vent to your own POS......

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My point was, a 15 x 4 wheel will be the limiting factor on how well your brakes work, not the fact that they're on a stock 4 lug rotor.
The reason I pointed out your obvious intentions to make it a drag car, is that drag cars don't have 17 x 8/9 (or bigger) front wheels to enable a "better" brake to do it's job. In other words, you already have what you need to stop your car as it was before you invested in the rotors. (how's that for advice on brake upgrades w/o robbing the bank)?
The only thing you need is an adjustable proportioning valve plumbed in so you can change the brake bias more to the rears, and take some away from the fronts. As a matter of fact, if you are still running the stock dist block, there is already too much brake bias to the front tires now because you changed them to the smaller fronts. I'll bet you can't do a hard stop on the car right now w/o locking the fronts up.
Investing in Aerospace, or Wilwood is typically done to save weight. It's a 4 piston lightweight aluminum caliper, and a skinny ass 3/8" solid rotor. But it's still only an 10 1/4" rotor, and your front tires will hang out 3/4" on each side.
Now If you want to go out and spend 650.00 for your front brakes so they'll be light weight, look like hell, and still lock up your front tires when you stand on the pedal, who am I to stop you?

Nobody is picking at your car anymore than normal. When I asked what people thought of my hood scoop in it's original version, and people wanted to know if I'd rent them space out to park their garden tractors under it, I took the hint, and cut it down.


Now I didn't have to do that (obviously), but when I post my pictures asking for opinions or advice, and the overwhelming majority tell me to do something else, I can either heed that advice, or tell them to f uck off. But if I'm gonna do something, post it on a community forum, ask for opinions on my latest "addition", and then ignore what people think or say anyway, I might as well not post them.

DON'T GET ME WRONG. I get that it's a transition work in progress, and I get that it's your car. If you like that mega cowl on your hood, then that's all that matters. At the same time, just because I rib you about it doesn't mean you should immediately go out and cut it down or throw the thing away. The fact that I called your big assed cowl the Eisenhower tunnel isn't the worst you'll hear until there is something under that pin on hood other than the 2v that currently lives there.
If you are all bent out of shape because I said that (and only that) about your car, then what can I say butto

i see no reason to do a 5 lug conversion unless ur gunna auto cross ur car..i did the conversion and i dont stop any better than i did with 4 lug.

What setup did you use?

2vNotch said:

lol madmike, I was hopin u got of most that had NOTHING to do with you...Fact I tossed and turned for an hour debating whether or not to kick the computer on and let u know.....Ive told you before I usually respect what you have to say, and get a kick outta reading your threads.

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Well you can never tell if someone takes offense. All I had to go by was the time your reply was made (3:03 AM).
Now I don't know about you, but if I go on a rant at 3:03 AM,...............no one is safe.irate: