I must be track retarded!

Zero Signal said:
Have you calculated your shift points out? According to the torque curve you posted up there, you should be shifting at 6000 rpm.

To be more exact:
1st to 2nd: 6200 rpm
2nd to 3rd: 6000 rpm
3rd to 4th: 5800 rpm
4th to 5th: 6000 rpm

How do you know where I should be shifting? Like what is the formula?
 
It's all based on your torque curve and gearing. With that, I you find the tractive effort for each rpm. The shift point is where the TE curve for each gear crosses when plotted with MPH being the x-axis. It's pretty simple, download my spreadsheet (see my webpage in my sig) and enter your torque curve in the green box. Your shift points should popup automically in red as long as your tractive effort curves actually cross each other, if not, you'll get errors. In your case, I just predicted the torque at 6000 and 6500 rpm to get them to cross.

That's the biggest drawwback to building a high-hp car, it usually means the torque lies high in the rpm band and can put your optimum shift point in a zone where you'll never actually use it. Now if you had a high revving valve train and a 306 long rod, that might be a whole different story :D

Ernie, I wouldn't rev it that high anyway, not unless your motor is built for it. The stock valvetrain can't do much past 5500 rpm! With the stock valvetrain, I would say shift around 5000 rpm-5500rpm depending on the condition of the motor just to be safe.
 
Zero Signal said:
Ernie, I wouldn't rev it that high anyway, not unless your motor is built for it. The stock valvetrain can't do much past 5500 rpm! With the stock valvetrain, I would say shift around 5000 rpm-5500rpm depending on the condition of the motor just to be safe.

Thats why my stang is blow up now , I rev up too high all the time :D