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If it's not the heater core...?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Funhog
  • Start date Start date Apr 21, 2005

Funhog

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
219
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0
Alabama
Apr 21, 2005
#1
  • Apr 21, 2005
  • #1
I posted the other day that my passenger side carpet was wet and smelled awful. All of the replies I got suggested it being the heater core. One person mentioned something about my windows getting fogged easily and more. Well I had a few of my friends look at it, and they all doubted it was the heater core. I put the vents on, the defroster and nothing fogged and nothing smelled. They said that when they got in the car that it didnt smell like coolant. So if it is not the heater core, what is it? One of my buddy's said it was the weather stripping. Could that be it.

Also, when I popped the hood with the car on, the car sounded like it was dying. The A/C pulley stopped, and then started spinning again. Like the voltage was dropping. I know I need a new starter, do I also need a new alternator/battery or both?
 

afast93stang

Founding Member
Jan 6, 2002
1,407
4
39
North Texas
Apr 21, 2005
#2
  • Apr 21, 2005
  • #2
I have a 93 coupe and my drivers side weather stripping has gone bad, I noticed the last time it rained my seat was a little wet along with the carpet... It could very well be the weather stripping.

I would say get one of your friends to hose your car down and focus on the door jam while you sit inside the car to see if you can pinpoint a leak. This would save you the hassle of doing the heater core if its working fine.

The A/C pulley clutch actually engages for a specific time and disengages for a specific time, you should see the center of it rotate and stop... you might have your idle too low to where when the A/C engages it draws so much power from the car it almost dies.
 

Funhog

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Alabama
Apr 21, 2005
#3
  • Apr 21, 2005
  • #3
afast93stang said:
The A/C pulley clutch actually engages for a specific time and disengages for a specific time, you should see the center of it rotate and stop... you might have your idle too low to where when the A/C engages it draws so much power from the car it almost dies.
Click to expand...

OK, that is exactly how it was. I could see the center of the pulley like you said. I plan on getting the A/C removed with the Ford Kit, should that fix it? If not, how do I fix the idle?
 

afast93stang

Founding Member
Jan 6, 2002
1,407
4
39
North Texas
Apr 21, 2005
#4
  • Apr 21, 2005
  • #4
From 50tech.com - the site also has pictures on doing this.

http://www.50tech.com/articles/display_article.php?catid=8&id=4#


By MSTANG [ December 27 2002 ]

To set your idle you will need a couple basic hand tools:


A Phillips head screw driver

A digital multi-meter

A drill & small drill bit (If this is your first time adjusting it)

A short flat edge screw driver

A ½" combination wrench

A 7/16" combination wrench
Now let's get started here. To start off what you need to do is start your car & let it warm up thoroughly. With the car at operating temperature, remove the electrical connector to the IAB (idle air bypass). The IAB is mounted to the front of the throttle body with two small bolts. It looks like long silver cylindrical tube with a mounting flange. To remove the connector simply pry up the securing clip gently & firmly pull the plug out. You should notice a slight drop in idle RPM when the IAB is disconnected.

With that done you can move to the throttle body to adjust the throttle stop screw. Standing on the passenger side of the vehicle, reach down the rear most part of the throttle body & feel for the throttle stop. Once you locate the throttle screw you may turn it with the short flat blade screwdriver RPM up or down. There is a jam nut usually affixed to the throttle stop screw to prevent the screw from backing out. This nut typically requires a 7/16" combination wrench to loosen. To adjust the RPM up turn the screw in, to adjust it down turn the screw out. I have found the best idle stability to be at, or around 850-900 rpm. This will vary according to any modifications you have done, particularly any aftermarket camshafts.

Once you have achieved your desired idle RPM you will need to reset the TPS setting to ~.97 volts. Sometimes adjusting the TPS to the correct range will alter idle RPM, so it may be necessary to repeat the procedure until the desired idle RPM is achieved. After this is complete you may reconnect the IAB & shut the vehicle off. At this point you will need to reset the EEC so that it may adjust to the new idle settings. To do this, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery using the ½" combination wrench. You will need to leave it disconnected for 15minutes, after which you can reconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Congratulations you have just reset your idle speed setting.


The author believes the above information to be true and accurate, however it is strictly for educational purposes only. Neither 50tech.com nor the author can be held liable in any manner for consequential damages occurring from the use of said information
 
J

jaackal

New Member
May 12, 2003
402
0
0
NJ
Apr 21, 2005
#5
  • Apr 21, 2005
  • #5
this happened to my moms grand prix and the actual a/c water hose thing that drains the water out was clogged and was draining into the car and caused the passenger side to have like an inch of water...good thing it was under warranty
 
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