Ignition switch

junkyardwarrior

Well-Known Member
Jan 10, 2011
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93 LX. Bone stock 4 cylinder. I bought it and had to put an ignition switch in it as the original was falling apart, which I read is kind of common. New switch is supposed to have a wire on it that holds the switch together, the wire was off, so I just installed it and it works. However, it's like it is way too sensitive. With the key turned to "run" position, if you barely touch the lock/key, the switch turns off. Where'd I mess up?
 
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Sounds like the switch is bad. Mew parts can come out of the store bad. That wire needed to be removed anyway it just holds it in the right position. If it's that sensitive something isn't right. Time to take it back apart.
 
all that metal clip does is hold the slide in place so you can line the pin up on the actuator rod , it is possible to over extend it a bit without it, but I don't think it would be that sensitive . You could take it back apart and use a safety pin or threading needle to act as the clip, shine a light in tiny hole for the clip while moving the slide back on the switch and you will see the small opening when it is lined up for the clip to go in place. It could be a worn actuator rod, , the harness connector or tumbler. at this age lots of stuff is worn out. All are available from pats stores on the cheap..... . I have one now I'm too lazy to look at that won't spark while cranking but fires as soon as the key is released into the run position, Knowing the basket case that car is it's probably a wiring issue vs the switch though on mine.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-63723A/Mustang-Ignition-Switch-79-93
 
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This is a motorcraft switch, just put it in this past weekend. It's got other issues but this one drives me nuts. The original was falling apart like most of them did. I have another Motorcraft switch, and stuck it on last night-it is identical, and there is no change in it's operation. The other switch is going into the other car (LX, turbo 2.3) when back from paint.

it's almost as if the cylinder or actuator rod assembly is supposed to have some kind of detent that is supposed to hold it into one position, and that detent is missing/broken/junk? The switch, however, works as designed. I removed the switch from the column, left the harness connected and it works great. I did have to put a lock cylinder in it, way back in I think 2014, long before I got the car running. It's running now but this deal is kinda odd. Never run into it before.
 
take it all apart and look for wear on the actuator rod teeth, check the spring, paw. gear and tumbler its self, something is worn out or broken. .LMR has a semi decent video on you tube if your not sure
with how it works. My laptop died and I don't have anything saved on this tablet or I'd link it for ya.