Im going to try and learn to paint.

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.
10 Year Member
Jan 8, 2006
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Louisiana
I have a few buddies who know how who will try and teach me. So my question is, what all will I need? So far ive come up with this list.

HVLP gun
Compressor (Got it)
Buffer
Buffing compound
wet sand paper (1000, 1200, and 1500 grit)
paint
clear

What am I missing?

And any advise for someone who is learning how to paint?
 
My advice is pay somebody else to do it, I tried it once and will never atempt it again. I'm sure if somebody is showing you it shouldn't be to bad.

Well Ive actually done a little bit of paint when we were doing my fender and bumper. And I did pretty good for a first timer. Ive never done clear though. But I have wetsanded.
 
My first paint job

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It takes lots of patience and lots of sanding. Put on light coats because runs are a bitch to fix. Don't worry about making the paint smooth as your spraying it, wet sanding and buffing will take care of the orange peel.

A good idea is to start out on an inconspicuous area for practice, like the underside of the hood or trunk.
 

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Ill more than likely practice on my old truck first. its white so it wont be that hard.

And what grit buffing compound did you use and in what order?

And can you put the clear on in light coats? Ive always thought it had to be applied in a thick smooth coat.
 
I learned from British guy at a place I worked prior to my Air Force days, he was actually trained in antique restorations, learned al the polishing stuff too.
Never did a car, but I use to lay a finish down on furniture, stuff you see in the mall dept stores, wall units, tables and such. Most of (80%) of the stuff I did was a clear coat, with the occasional paint, IMO black is the hardest to do, every imperfection beems at you. Your exp'd friends probably know, but with the humidity inh Louisianna (where you're from?), if it's bad enough it'll get in the paint, looks like an oil slick when it dries, sucks when it happens. No worries, they make chemicals to counter it, bettet to just wait for normal conditions. It was 10 years ago when I worked at this place, and to us HVLP guns were expensive and fairly new, although I'm sure they'd been around for a whille. HVLP pay off in their reduced overspray, and material usage, but if they still cost anything like I remember, I'd just get the run of the mill siphon gun for a hobby.
Keep your gun clean, any spot on the needle will mess up the fan pattern. My guns had a vent coming outta the cup, I learned quick to wrap a rag around the open end of the vent, cause, well it'll vent, and then a drop a paint will fall on your fresh covered surface, then it's do it all over agian.
I learned pretty quick, due to the mass quantity we put out. Hardest thing to do is keep that nice even stroke. Pause for a split second with your finger ont he triiger, paint build up. Don't get the proper overlap, dry spots in the paint. But once yout get it down you can get stuff to look like glass.
Don't forget a viscosity cup, and filters...paper to run paint thru and a filter on the air in-line of your gun, keep that condensation out. Nice tack rags, all that stuff is sold at a finishing type store
Good luck man...and don't try a metal flake or pearl type finish first, they'll come with practice
 
I don't remember what grit buffing compound we started with. It was some stuff my dad got from a professional painter and I don't think it was labeled...We did finish up with some 3M Finesse It I think it's called.

What I was told is to put on one or two thin coats of clear, then put on a thicker coat. I put on one thick coat my first time and it had a bunch of runs in it. We had to sand it down to the primer in a few places and re-clear the whole car after touching up those places.
 
Im happy I have a truck to practice on. It it comes out like ass, Ill just go in a ditch and cover it in mud so you can see it. lol.

And thanks, I didnt think about an inline filter.
 
HVLP gun
Compressor (Got it)
Buffer
Buffing compound
wet sand paper (1000, 1200, and 1500 grit)
paint
clear
reducer
hardner
thinner (mineral spirits)
dryer for the air compressor
primer
400 grit sand paper
DA random orbit sander
sanding block
tack cloths
surface prep chemical (cant remember name)
measuring cups
respirator with extra filters
A hood or something to practice filling/sanding/painting
filler
heat lamps
spreaders



What am I missing?

And any advise for someone who is learning how to paint?

You can live without the heat lamps. And the DA sander if you don't have any dents over the size of a quarter. A block sander will suffice.

As for advice, practice and a good teacher is all you need. If you need help just PM me. I am no means an expert but I spent many month at my body shop.
Scott
 
I bet I can score alot of that stuff for free from my buddy who works at the Ford dealership.

I justify it by saying that the paint Ford put on it is ****ed up so Im fixing it and they are paying for it. lol

EDIT: And isnt auto paint xylene based? Mineral spirits wont work.
 
Most sanding can be done with 240 grit and a DA. Small dents and stuff will require 180 and some finishing putty. Bigger dents/rust 80grit and Bondo. (NOT recommended!) You really have no need for anything finer than 240/320 for pre-paint prep.
Tack cloths 2-3 of them.
HVLP should have it's own air supply. A 1" diameter hose and a "pusher" unit.
measuring cups, paint stirrers and such should be "gratis" from the paint supplier.

The very most important thing you can have when doing any paint work is a VERY, VERY, VERY clean and dust-free area to paint in. You can do the body work in the Sahara dessert but, the finish needs to be applied in a totally dust free area.

It's not rocket science and you have "professional" help. Go for it!
 
Most sanding can be done with 240 grit and a DA. Small dents and stuff will require 180 and some finishing putty. Bigger dents/rust 80grit and Bondo. (NOT recommended!) You really have no need for anything finer than 240/320 for pre-paint prep.
Tack cloths 2-3 of them.
HVLP should have it's own air supply. A 1" diameter hose and a "pusher" unit.
measuring cups, paint stirrers and such should be "gratis" from the paint supplier.

The very most important thing you can have when doing any paint work is a VERY, VERY, VERY clean and dust-free area to paint in. You can do the body work in the Sahara dessert but, the finish needs to be applied in a totally dust free area.

It's not rocket science and you have "professional" help. Go for it!

What do you mean by a "pusher" unit ?the compressor? And I need an inline filter and regulator too right?

Iva always heard that bondo isnt that bad if you stay under 1/4 of an inch thick. We had to put a good bit on my fender and its holding up perfectly.
 
I bet I can score alot of that stuff for free from my buddy who works at the Ford dealership.

I justify it by saying that the paint Ford put on it is ****ed up so Im fixing it and they are paying for it. lol

EDIT: And isnt auto paint xylene based? Mineral spirits wont work.

At my body shop they use mineral spirits in their guns after clear is sprayed to thin it out and blend it together. They call it burning.
 
What do you mean by a "pusher" unit ?the compressor?

The one that we use has a fan untit on one end. I guess you could call it a compressor. Only builds 15 or so psi, though.


Ive always heard that bondo isnt that bad if you stay under 1/4 of an inch thick. We had to put a good bit on my fender and its holding up perfectly.

Bondo isn't "bad", if you keep it thin. It does require a lot more "know-how" than what you have experienced, though. That's what I meant.