I'm stuck with what to do for S-trim install

BlueOvalStangGT · May 10, 2006

Joe 5.0 said:
Alright alright you guys talked me into it. What tools other than a cutting wheel is suggested? I have the vortech manual, so i'll get the right size tap and other random stuff it calls for.

And to install it out of the car, you'd have to pull the engine, right?

As far as trans portataion to the dyno, i'll still have to trailer it right? Theres no way I can leave the stock maf/injectors in for even a couple miles to get it there, then throw on the lmaf & 42's once there, is there? I would try to stay as close to 2k rpm as possible and no throttle play at all. I just dont wanna lean it out, or foul the plugs trying to drive it untuned.

Im trying to think what you would need tool wise....You def. need the vutting wheel for the fender(if you have a power pipe), coolant tube, and CCRM bracket. Then you need the tool to tap the oil pan...ummmm......I think thats about it. IMO you should be fine driving to the dyno with the 42's/Lmaf. As long as your not racing every corrola on the way their you should be fine. I snapped some pics of stuff needed for the Vortech install so I could post those to help you a little more.

Also, for reassurance when I installed my Vortech, I was 17 and the biggest install I did prior to the Vortech was an intake manifold. I did it all by myself with the help of Stangnet. Really not that tricky at all.

Joe 5.0 · May 10, 2006

Well I started the LT install today. Got the midpipe & almost all the bolts from the driver manifold off. Went to sears and bought a grinder/cutting wheel, a ratcheting 9/16" open end wrench, and gonna get the taps this weekend.

How did you guys get the first manifold bolt on the driver side off? That bastard PS pump is really in the way, I can barely even get an open end on it, let alone a socket.

BlueOvalStangGT · May 10, 2006

Just keep trying, their really isnt a secret way to do it. I think I use a long extension and a ratchet for that one. For your headers dont be afraid to undo a motor mount and jack the motor up. Makes it way easier.

Joe 5.0 · May 10, 2006

Any instructions or tips on how to undo the motor mounts and move the engine? Do I have to unhook any connections or vac lines so I dont break any of them when I move the engine over a bit?

BlueOvalStangGT · May 11, 2006

No, just undo the one bolt that holds the motor mount, and jack up on one side a couple inches. Should give you the clearance you need for the install.

Joe 5.0 · May 12, 2006

Well got both stock manifolds off today, tommorow should be the start of the fun stuff.

BTW should I replace the O2 sensors while i'm at it? I have 95k, and i'm sure they are original.

turbofreek · May 12, 2006

joe did you know you can drive a blower car with the belt off? that will help you drive it to a dyno. and the tune price should include dyno time to tune it. if they dont tune it on the dyno how the hell do they know its tuned correctly? that is if they are tuning it personally? just an ordered tune you can install that yourself with on the phone customer service

Green 94 5.0 · May 13, 2006

turbofreek said:
joe did you know you can drive a blower car with the belt off? that will help you drive it to a dyno. and the tune price should include dyno time to tune it. if they dont tune it on the dyno how the hell do they know its tuned correctly? that is if they are tuning it personally? just an ordered tune you can install that yourself with on the phone customer service

all he has to do is drive the car easily. even with the blower belt as tight as a banjo string, he will make no boost if he is light on the gas pedal and keeps the rpm's down.

Green 94 5.0 · May 13, 2006

also, a quick bit of advice about the longtubes.....drop out the starter, and unbolt the steering shaft. have the car at least 3 notches up on a normal set of jackstands. with that and a slight bit of lifting of the engine with the motor mounts unbolted, the longtubes should slide in with minimal maneuvering. also, i would replace the o2's since your mileage is high, better to do preventative maintenance than have to go through the hassle of getting under the car again later on just for that.

Joe 5.0 · May 13, 2006

I dont want to drop out the starter, but I was looking and i'm sure the steering shaft will have to be moved. Where do I put my jack under the engine to support it? And whats the procedure for undoing the motor mounts? I've never taken an engine out, and i'll be doing this entirely myself.

95snoozer · May 13, 2006

Do the install yourself and put the money into a damn good dyno tune...

you arent running the fmu are you?

I know you might think this is weird but you can take the blower belt off to get it to the tune... ha

or just stay out of boost (easy) and set you timing back

94GTLaserRC · May 14, 2006

95snoozer said:
...I know you might think this is weird but you can take the blower belt off to get it to the tune... ha

Been there...done that! Car runs WORSE LOL!!

RC

BlueOvalStangGT · May 14, 2006

My car ran fine without the belt. How come you dont want to unbolt the starter? Its only two bolts and makes things hella easy. If you have the $$$ for new o2's, go for it. If not and they were working fine before...you should be ok.

Joe 5.0 · May 15, 2006

They are working fine, just think with a blower and some extra fuel going on them probably better to do them while I have them out.

I just have read that its a PITA to get the starter back in once the LT's are in?

HGFireHazard · May 15, 2006

I had to go out and buy a few extra misc. things that weren't listed in the Vortech install manual, but they weren't huge things. Make sure you have new coolant, oil, all the tools listed for the install in the manual. I drove mine untuned and even got it into boost, but I only did that because it was running so dang rich. I didn't know it at the time but the MAF connection wasn't totally connected so it wasn't reading the MAF and treating the 42s like 19s, hah. Tapping the oil pan is nerve racking, but it isn't difficult. I just turned mine a 1/2 turn in and a 1/4 turn out. Checked the threads and kept the schutes packed with grease. If you have any questions feel free to ask me or anyone else on here. I didn't use the FMU so I can't help you there but should be able to help you with anything else. FWIW, I spent approximately 40 hours on the project, and that's including store runs and all the time I spent taking breaks (which I did a good amount of) and talking with buds that were around. Good luck, you'll be glad you did this in the end.

94GTLaserRC · May 16, 2006

HGFireHazard said:
I had to go out and buy a few extra misc. things that weren't listed in the Vortech install manual, but they weren't huge things. Make sure you have new coolant, oil, all the tools listed for the install in the manual. I drove mine untuned and even got it into boost, but I only did that because it was running so dang rich. I didn't know it at the time but the MAF connection wasn't totally connected so it wasn't reading the MAF and treating the 42s like 19s, hah. Tapping the oil pan is nerve racking, but it isn't difficult. I just turned mine a 1/2 turn in and a 1/4 turn out. Checked the threads and kept the schutes packed with grease. If you have any questions feel free to ask me or anyone else on here. I didn't use the FMU so I can't help you there but should be able to help you with anything else. FWIW, I spent approximately 40 hours on the project, and that's including store runs and all the time I spent taking breaks (which I did a good amount of) and talking with buds that were around. Good luck, you'll be glad you did this in the end.

None of them individually are major, but collectively, they add up fast!
RC

I'm stuck with what to do for S-trim install

BlueOvalStangGT

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Joe 5.0

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