increase HP in a I6 200ci

[Skyes 66]

I just got a 66 stange that needs ALOT of restoration (head to toe) and in the process I wanted to increase the HP the I6 200ci. I was thinking of boring out the piston (dont know how much yet), installing a MSD, a better fan and larger exhaust. My question is what can I do about intake because it is a 1v intake manifold and how much power with the a stock C4 automatic 3speed transmission take? And should I replace the back axle as well?


Thanks for the advice,

Skye

 

[krash kendall]

Go here: http://fordsix.com/forum/

 

[timwcol2]

and here:http://www.cliffordperformance.net/

 

[66Runt]

Then go here

www.countrywidemortgage.com for a second mortgage.

Think hard before dumping a bunch of money into a 6 cylinder. It's dollar for dollar what you'll spend on a V8. The only advantage is it's light weight and durability at high rpm.

 

[Skyes 66]

Thanks again for the advice, I've already checked them all out. BTW the link to coutrywidemortgage.com does not work, just kiddin. I dont think that will be a problem.

Skye

 

[rbohm]

www.classicinlines.com has better customer service than clifford does. as for what you can do to gain power, since you are rebuilding;

1: .030 is about all you want to go when overboring.

2: use a cam that works in the rpm range that you plan on driving in most of the time. classic inlines has a good selection of clay smith ground cams, and if you dont see one you like, they will have clay smith custom grind a cam for you at no extra cost.

3: if you plan on keeping the stock head, mill it .050 to raise compression, .070 if you use a composite head gasket. you can then add, via an adaptor, a 5200 holley webber carb. or you can have the head modified to use a holley 2300 or autolite 2100 carb in a direct bolt on fashion. or you can add an offenhauser 3x1bbl carb settup.

4: if you plan on replacing the head, classic inlines should be able to get you either an aussie 250 2v head and intake, or an argentine head with intake and exhaust manifold at a reasonable price. however if you wait on the head for a couple of months while production ramps up, you can get a NEW aluminum head from classic inlines(price yet to be determined) along with your choice of intakes(mike has plans for 5 different intakes that can be ordered). this head will bolt right onto you stock block with NO modification.

5: classic inlines also has three different brands of headers you can order, his own brand, pacemaker from australia, and hooker headers.

6: as usual a decent exhaust system needs to be installed, single or dual it doesnt matter.

7: if you want some real power, add a turbo. one of the guys on the fordsix forums has one on an early falcon, and that car runs in the low 12's to high 11 second bracket, with a 200 ci six! he is planning on installing one of the new aluminum heads as soon as they are available, and then he should be heading for the low 11 second bracket.

with the right mods you make enough power to surprise many V8's and ricers. dont let people tell you that a six cant make power.

 

[Skyes 66]

I just uploaded some pics of my 66, in my garage

 

[chepsk8]

What about the Australian Cross-Flow head?

Turbo?

Rockets?

 

[6T6coupe]

The fordsix guys are now assembling an awesome turbo/EFI example with the new head design. They aren't saying, but I'll be disappointed if it doesn't make at leat 400hp. Hell, Will & Kelly's old 250 makes over 300hp with an iron log head and a 2bbl.

 

[BatFink]

$ for $ how much easier would it be to transplant a V8 insted of tuning to the current engine?

 

[chepsk8]

That's not the point!

It takes serious craziness, insanity, and commitment to seriously work an I6. Very cool!

 

[57fairlane]

I have a set of 255 pistons if you want em . . .

 

[Skyes 66]

Thanks for the offer, but I am going to old off on doing anything to the engine & tranny. I have not made up my mind on the issue of daily driver or muscle car. That would be one bad *** engine in a little coupe, just think of the fun you could have with people when you tell them you have an I6 and then you blow away their somewhat moded 351.

 

[rbohm]

What about the Australian Cross-Flow head?

Turbo?

the crossflow head wont fit the US block without a few mods. check out this link for more info on that, http://fordsix.com/tech/engine/crossflow/crossflow.php

last time i heard jack had the engine up and running, but had a few minor issues to fix, small things like an oil leak. jack said it ran strong though.

as for a turbo, that would be a good way to go with any head that is used on the ford six. the crossflow or the new head from classicinlines.com would be best in a turbo appication.

 

[6T6coupe]

The crossflow head on a US 200 or 250 is a relatively straightforward swap, but is by no means a bolt-on. There is some fabricating and machine work that has to be performed. And on a 200, none of the stock intakes will clear the distributor so something has to be fabricated to fit.

That's where I am now. The engine runs pretty well, makes good power, leaks are stopped, but I'm playing with another set of carbs. I should have built a megasquirt for this one too....

The coolest carbs were the Mikunis, but setting a consistent idle was an issue. Too many screws!

I may eventually build a manifold to use a MS EFI system. We're installing one of those in the coupe now to replace the SDS unit we were running.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

It takes serious craziness, insanity, and commitment to seriously work an I6.

I have that beat with 1/6 as many cylinders. See right side of my sig picture .

Don't mind me, just making wise comments and subscribing.

 

[Skyes 66]

Couple more questions if you guys dont mind. I wanted to rebuild the engine to get 300+ HP if possible (would love to have 400+ but don't know if that is possible with a I6) and use the car as a Friday/Saturday night driver, and on the drag strip.

1) I've seen on a couple of websites with kits or what not that ask how much you've bored it out (ex: .030, .040, .050, 0.060...), however rbohm said .030 over is the most you should do. So my question is why is .030 the most over you should go and why do people offer parts to a .090 over bore?

2)I was going to switch to the new 4V FSPP alum. header with new intake and exhaust manifolds. Any suggestions about speciffic exhaust or intakes?

3)I dont know much/anything about how a cam works and whats the best setup to run, could someone explain what would be the best setup for my goal.

4)How does changing rockers and springs affect the valves?

5)I was planning on use a multi spark system and didnt know who's was the best and whats the best configuration to use.

6)Tranny, I was planning on changing the tranny out to a manual and wanted to know if a company makes a stock tranny would be the best to use or do I need to go out and find something that I will need to modify the gears or what not.

I think I found a breaking system and suspension system that will work but I am open to any suggestions.

Sorry about any misspellings or grammer issues and thanks in advance for the advice.

 

[rbohm]

ok 300hp IS possible with an inline six, BUT you will need forced induction to achieve that goal, turbo is best. as to your other questions;

1: most ford engines are thin wall designs, and ford recomends that you limit overboring to no more than .040". i usually recomend .030 as a maximum as that gives you room for another rebuild if needed. you can certainly go more if you choose, but i highly recomend that you have the block sonic checked for core shift and other problems that were prevelant at the time these blocks were cast. it would be a bad thing if you had the engine shop bore the motor over .060 and ran into the coolant jacket. cause then you would have to have the block sleeved(expensive and recommended only if you are trying to save a rare block), or find a decent replacement block.

2: for the intake it will depend on the power level you intend to make, and what mike will have available. as for the exhaust, a set of fspp or pacemaker headers are always a good choice.

3: regarding cam selection, you have to first decide what rpm range the engine spend about 80% of its time in, and select a cam that works in that rpm range. for example, if you were building a 289 for a daily driver, and wanted more power, the rpm range you would spend most of your time in is the idle-4500rpm range. thus i would recomend a cam like the comp cams 260 or 268 high energy grind. if on the other hand you wanted a drag only motor, and depending on class rules, you would want a cam that works in the 3000-7000 rpm range, thus a solid roller cam that works in that range is best.

4: changin rockers usually means changing rocker arm ratios, and that changes valve lift. a 1.7 rocker will push the valve open more than a 1.6 rocker will. you at that point would need to check valve to piston clearance to avoid the valves and pistons from becoming too friendly as that would end your day badly. as for springs, the control the valvetrain motion to prevent valve bounce, aka valve float. too stiff a spring though will cause excessive cam lobe and lifter wear. too light a spring allows the valves to float, and that can allow the valves and pistons to become too friendly as well, and again will ruin your day.

5: multi spark ignitions these days are all pretty good. some like MSD, other like crane or mallory or other ignitions. personally i prefer MSD as they are the leader in the aftermarket ignition field.

6: for your six, a T5 would be a good tranny to use. it is light and can handle a fair amount of power out of the box, as long as you are not a ham handed driver(those types can break lenco's with a stock four banger!).

 

[57fairlane]

Count another vote for a turbo. If you could do everything yourself and go for a small budget, I would recommend a t4 out of a junkyard. Get it rebuilt and you are set. You will have to get a custom set of headers as I don't know of anyone that mass produces a turbo header for the falcon six family.

And on the transmission, if you are cheap and $800 is going to break you, get a t-5. If you can spend a little more go with a 3550. Its the same case as the TKO series (possible upgrades) and is much stronger than the weak-cased t5.

As for a cam recommendation, I would stick with the 1500-5000 rpm range.
Like crane's 276D hydraulic flat.

 

[Skyes 66]

Thanks rbohm & 57fairlane, that helps a lot. I do want to do most the work myself but i do know that I will need a local machine shop to do some stuff.

One thing that no one has talked about is the crank shaft and I didnt know if any mods to it will give any increased power or just leave it stock. What about lifters?

Thanks again