Inline stereo fuse?

MadMatt5oh

Member
Jan 10, 2003
441
0
16
St Paul, MN
Hey people, I installed a 100 wt RMS CD player in my stang. The trouble is it keeps blowing fuses! I couldnt use the plug and play wiring harnesses because the Redneck that owned it before me cut everything. I matched the basics and think I have the speakers correct as far as - and +'s go. This head unit is alot more powerful than the crappy deck that was in it. Im wondering what are the specs for the fusable link on the constant (yellow)?

Someone help me! Ive been very busy de-rednecking this car! :notnice:
 
you should be able to support 180 watts (RMS) if there is a 15 amp fuse, so i would look for a chafed wire or run new wire from the fuse box. who knows what he did.

since you are toiling to undo his work, you might enjoy this.

friend had a 69 ford Pick up with a 390. anyhow, he asked me to help him do brakes (he knows nothin about cars) and i look underneath......there was house plumbing pipe on the exhaust mixed with the flexible pipe parts stores sell, amongst others, all suspended with coat hangers. i counted 4 different types of pipe. dont ask about how the front brakes had rear shoes and what else was done.

good luck.
 
Thanks guys,

Hissin, I think that guy might be related to the former owner of my stang! Oh wait. Arent they all related? :)


Cjones, Im not losing fuses in the box. I'm losing inline fuses on the stereo harness - for melt down unsurance ( I'll keep that mispelled Im not adverertising!)

So I can use the same rated fuses inline as I do on the box? Right?
 
according to the ford wiring diagram there are no inline fuses or fused links for the stereo, so that fuse is aftermarket. you should be able to replace it with the proper amp fuse that your stereo/cd player states.

the first thing i'd do is make sure you're using the factory wiring. i know the previous owner hacked it but you should splice into it and get rid of all of his junk.
 
The stereo should have a current rating on the docs or underneath where it has all the other info. You can run a wire directly to the bat or the solenoid to power the unit. If the radio draws 11 amps, then you run a 15 amp fuse. If you do this and it is still blowing the properly sized fuse, then somthing is wrong with the unit and you should return it.

My car was so hacked up when I got it too. I guess it goes with the territory. Old cars, apeal to young drivers. I have a painless roll bar switch setup now and it is really nice. I spent about $100 on my car trying to save the factory wiring. I wasted time and money. I should have gone with the race car setup from the start.
 
thanks guys, the deck has a 10amp fuse plugged into it. I think I'll go with the 15 amp inline fuses! Doh! I was using 3amp fuses! The chiltons is very halfassed on wiring. The former owner was a 45 year old redneck from West VA! :bang: I'm not going to try to save the old wiring, I'll just go with inline fuses as additional protection