I installed rear rotors and pads yesterday. I drive today light on the brakes to break them in. I stopped and saw my left rear outside pad or inside there smoking a little. Then I looked at outside pad and could see it was burnt a little on metal spring. I guess that will go away after breaking them in, it doesnt always smoke, but it smells outside like the pads. Also when im driving really slow and gliding sometimes it makes this brake howl noise, if I put my head out the window I am sure its the rear left. Its not my rear end gears doing it. Also my car doesnt feel as fast anymore just after yesterday daily driving and picking up speeds and coming to a stop gliding. I think I have brake drag. What did i do wrong or will this go away? Also my rear rotors dont even really look new anymore, they have lines in them Im guessing from caliper moving round and round or pads touching rotor.
Installed brakes - problem now I think
- Thread starter Mustang4119
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wilsonc2222
Member
did you bleed the breaks? i'm not trying to be funny.Mustang4119 said:
i had the same problem and it was because i didn't bleed them enough. but i changed the master cylinder(?) also.
tdaily2
New Member
this is the car that you where having provlems getting them to go on and you cut down part of the pad on one side....your parking cable may be to tight or it could be a caliper that is badis this the first time you have put brakes on...i'm not asking to be a smart ---
tdaily2 said:
Ya well that was the right side. I am only the person in the car and I sometimes hear a howl sound gliding to a stop or at 20mph around. Its in the rear left as far as I can hear. I dont think its the right side. Maybe piston wasnt screwed in all the way? but then wouldnt it not fit and go over the pads? My left rear brake pad starts to smoke, maybe they have to brake in and shave some brake pad off because my rear rims are so dirty now from brake dust. I do feel the brake pedal nice and tighter now with the new pads on. Are the rotors suppose to have a lining on them from the caliper going round and round from pads sticking? They look like they have 2 scratched circles around the rotor. My stock ones when I took off the rotors and pads. I had like no brake pads on one side and that was making the squealing noise rubbing against metal. But now my car doesnt roll so Im guessing brake drag. Also makes a howl sound thats about it.
Mustang4119 said:
Sounds to me like your caliper slide pins are seized. If i remember correctly from your other thread you never checked or re lubricated them.
It's a common problem for the Mustang. Water gets inside the boots and causes the pins to freeze in place. As a result, the pads wear down on 1 side and the caliper does not slide freely
Since a picture is worth a thousand words.
Here's the top view of the caliper. You want to remove the two bolts from the outside corners.
View attachment 499708
Here is 1 screw removed, but the black part left would be the caliper bridge. The part where the screws attach is the caliper slide pin. These pins are covered with a rubber boot and slide in and out like an accordian. They must slide EASILY with no resistance and act like a spring
View attachment 499710
To lubricate, pull the pin out, clean out any old grease from the pin and inside the bore and apply fresh caliper slide pin grease to the pin. Push the pin and boot back on making sure to squeeze any trapped air from inside the boot. Check to make sure it slides in and out easily.
View attachment 499712
Sometimes the pins are so seized you must replace the caliper bridge. I beleive NAPA sells them but you can get new ones from Ford for about $40
Here's the top view of the caliper. You want to remove the two bolts from the outside corners.
View attachment 499708
Here is 1 screw removed, but the black part left would be the caliper bridge. The part where the screws attach is the caliper slide pin. These pins are covered with a rubber boot and slide in and out like an accordian. They must slide EASILY with no resistance and act like a spring
View attachment 499710
To lubricate, pull the pin out, clean out any old grease from the pin and inside the bore and apply fresh caliper slide pin grease to the pin. Push the pin and boot back on making sure to squeeze any trapped air from inside the boot. Check to make sure it slides in and out easily.
View attachment 499712
Sometimes the pins are so seized you must replace the caliper bridge. I beleive NAPA sells them but you can get new ones from Ford for about $40
Kilgore Trout said:
Yup, a lot of people fail to check the pins and it is a VERY common problem, not only to Mustangs.
I did a full brake job on a friends Acura 3.2 CL Type S yesterday and as soon as i popped off the rear caliper, i noticed 1 pad was worn down more than the other. As soon as i saw this i knew right away to check the pins. Same design as the Mustang and sure enough, 1 pin was seized. I broke it loose, took it out, cleaned and regreased and put it back on. Good as new.
You also have to realize when your pins seize, you are only pushing on the rotor with 1 side of the caliper. This handicaps your braking ability dramatically.
1fast03pony
Member
I just did all four brakes for a co-worker friend on his 2000 GT. The front pins were fine, but one caliper was sticking, the rears were a mess and the pins were frozen. We used an air hammer to drive out the pins and I cleaned the rust off and greased them for re-use, (we didn't have replacements and it was getting late. He says his right rear brake is hotter then the left side after a short drive. It tested fine when we drove it around after finsihing the job. Perhaps a sticking emergency braake cable on that side? Also in another thread ther was mention of nubs or bumps on the pads? is this the front and rear or only the rear. I honestly don't remember this when installing the new pads. If so, what is the orientation? nubs inside or out?
Thanks
Thanks
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