installing a k member

bagel77 · May 25, 2010

hello all. I just picked up a QA1 K-member. I am planning on doing the install myself. Any tips? anything I need to becareful with? I am sticking with stock LCA and springs for now. is the swap easy? I tried to find a thread on the subject but no luck.

Thanks

bagel77 · May 26, 2010

okay guys can someone give me alink to installing a k-member. I am really looking forward to doing this install. I just want to be prepared

KamiKaziDK · May 26, 2010

You're gonna need a cherry picker for sure, hope you have one

bagel77 · May 26, 2010

KamiKaziDK said:
You're gonna need a cherry picker for sure, hope you have one

gee thanks...Ihadn't thought of that. I was thinking of using cider blocks.

seriously did I put this in the wrong section?

90lxcoupe · May 26, 2010

Its pretty simple, do you want to know what size wrenches you will need?

be careful with the old springs, they are dangerous if your not careful, other then that its a matter of taking the old one out and bolting the new one in

hollywoodstang · May 26, 2010

Here you go buddy

QA-1 K Member

You will need couple of friends

Good luck

bagel77 · May 27, 2010

Thanks Hollywood. That will be helpful.

You know guys it was a serious question. I didn't know if I had to worry about my front end allinement moving. Or things like that. I thought asking on this site I would get good honest advice. But unfornately I seem to get a bunch of wise remarks. I am sorry if me asking a question about doing I have never done/seen done is to belittling for some of you to take seriously

To everyone that has given serious advice....I want to say THANK YOU

KamiKaziDK · May 27, 2010

Wow, do you want help or to be a sarcastic ass?? A lot of people think they can do stuff without special tools, you don't see me saying I hope you drop the whole damn thing on your foot do you???

bagel77 · May 27, 2010

okay then I apoligize....guess I read it the wrong way. I tought it was made as a sarcastic comment...so I am sorry.

just having a bad day.

I would want alll the help I can get.

is it really as easy as unbolt and bolt up the new one? Do I need to worry about exact placement when I put it back? I ask because the bolt holes are elongated.

hollywoodstang · May 27, 2010

bagel77 said:
okay then I apoligize....guess I read it the wrong way. I tought it was made as a sarcastic comment...so I am sorry.

just having a bad day.

I would want alll the help I can get.

is it really as easy as unbolt and bolt up the new one? Do I need to worry about exact placement when I put it back? I ask because the bolt holes are elongated.

The K-member bolt holes to the frame only goes to side to side, It does not go forward and backward,

it is easy as unbolting the old one and put new one in, If you are using stock arms, It might have an interference with your k-member, you will need to grind off some metal on your stock control arms.

I have also heard the control arms bolt do not line up well, The link i gave you the guy actually took the time and grind off the supplied bolt, but you can always go get same size bolt with smaller washer from hardware store, Make sure they are grade 8 and above.

I personally have AJE K-member and install was very easy. While doing your K-member, do the oil pan gasket if it's leaking and other little stuff, look for thing that are worn out and out of order, you are going to be under the car for a while so make the time useful

Good luck

bagel77 · May 27, 2010

thanks again hollywood....I am using stock LCA so if I have to make adjustments I will. One advantage I have is NO motor in the car.

giddyup306 · May 27, 2010

Yes you will have to have an alignment done on the car after the install.

IIRC the control arm bolts are grade 10.8 not grade 8.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-N808476S301/79-04-Mustang-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Bolt

Here it says 10.9, but I think that's a typo.

FWIW if they are anything like mine you'll have to replace most (I replaced all) k member and a arm bolts. The salt rusted half of them through, and several snapped in half upon removal. They're not cheap, but might as well do it right the first time.

Shaolin Crane · May 28, 2010

giddyup306 said:
Yes you will have to have an alignment done on the car after the install.

IIRC the control arm bolts are grade 10.8 not grade 8.

79-04 Mustang Front Lower Control Arm Bolt by Ford at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

Here it says 10.9, but I think that's a typo.

FWIW if they are anything like mine you'll have to replace most (I replaced all) k member and a arm bolts. The salt rusted half of them through, and several snapped in half upon removal. They're not cheap, but might as well do it right the first time.

grade 10.8 and grade 8 are the same one is metric one is standard

90lxcoupe · May 28, 2010

bagel77 said:
One advantage I have is NO motor in the car.

I'd say thats a good thing and a bad thing, its good cause there is nothing in the way. Its bad because the old springs become more of a hassle to remove. When you try to jack up the a-arm its just gonna lift the whole car up. The hardest part for me was getting the old springs and a-arms off. The stock springs make me nervous

Kman92 · May 28, 2010

90lxcoupe said:
I'd say thats a good thing and a bad thing, its good cause there is nothing in the way. Its bad because the old springs become more of a hassle to remove. When you try to jack up the a-arm its just gonna lift the whole car up. The hardest part for me was getting the old springs and a-arms off. The stock springs make me nervous

Ahh..I was wondering if that would be the case.

hollywoodstang · May 28, 2010

90lxcoupe said:
I'd say thats a good thing and a bad thing, its good cause there is nothing in the way. Its bad because the old springs become more of a hassle to remove. When you try to jack up the a-arm its just gonna lift the whole car up. The hardest part for me was getting the old springs and a-arms off. The stock springs make me nervous

You can take the whole assembly out in one piece, However you will need 2 other friends to help you out.

But since you are using stock arms, I suggest you take out the springs and arms with stock K-member still attached to the car.

Why does "Stock" springs makes you nervous? I usually lower the control arms slowly with small hyd jack and pop them out It never shot out at me, lol

Good luck

90lxcoupe · May 28, 2010

hollywoodstang said:
Why does "Stock" springs makes you nervous? I usually lower the control arms slowly with small hyd jack and pop them out It never shot out at me, lol

Good luck

I did myne with the strut still attached and it didnt go so well, i ended up getting hit in the head with the jack handle, i just dont like messing with them, crappy design and they are definitly dangerous, they store a ton of energy. Im glad i switched to coilovers so i dont have to deal with that nonsense. The jack method would have worked for me if the motor was in the car, but without the motor, even the slightest tension with a jack cause the car to move off the jackstands

Shaolin Crane · May 28, 2010

90lxcoupe said:
I did myne with the strut still attached and it didnt go so well, i ended up getting hit in the head with the jack handle, i just dont like messing with them, crappy design and they are definitly dangerous, they store a ton of energy. Im glad i switched to coilovers so i dont have to deal with that nonsense. The jack method would have worked for me if the motor was in the car, but without the motor, even the slightest tension with a jack cause the car to move off the jackstands

**** the stock springs, those piles of **** are just that, when i was taking my car apart i got hit in the ****i chest with one of them, and people here are saying that you need 2 or 3 or 4 people blah blah you dont, i built my entire car by myself, just attach everything to the k member before you put it in the car and everything will work much easier

Beasty306GT · May 28, 2010

I installed mine..it was pretty easy...i got the upr with coilovers...u just need the help of 1 friend to unbolt the old one and bolt the new one in place...u should also replace the control arm bushings while they are out....thats it u plan on keeping the stock control arms...i also did a maximum motorsport steering shaft..made the steering a lot tighter

giddyup306 · May 28, 2010

Shaolin Crane said:
grade 10.8 and grade 8 are the same one is metric one is standard

They are similar in strength, but why not get the right bolt?

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