installing coil overs
- Thread starter BlackVert
- Start date
sorry, but that sounds too easy ... which is a good thing! i guess my springs will be pretty easy to get out since they are shorter than stock springs (i have 2" lowering springs in right now)?eades5.0 said:
for the record, how does one remove coil springs? this has probably been covered hundreds of times ...
donjohn
New Member
What is the purpose of these?
I have pretty much stock front susp except for the Steeda springs and C/C plates.
RC
I have pretty much stock front susp except for the Steeda springs and C/C plates.
RC
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
I got the griggs coil overs for bilsteins, I have to replace the a arms, Also got the watts link and we ran into some trouble, still not in yet. This is turning out to be very difficult.
reduces weight
easy to change springs if youw ant 2 different setups..
ride height adjustability
i had x2cs and they are loud! clanky and such since there are no bushings another set with aftermarket caster cambers would be a different story. Just look at the set you are buying and think about if there will be metal on metal contact.
I had 14 iinch 175 pounds and they handled BETTER than stock springs. i put them on and my friend thought i had put my sway bar back on.
INATALL:
i did them with brake calipers on.
1. lower strut down by undoing top bolt and losening the strut mount bolts.
2. undo brake line bracket
3. yank the stock spring out however you see fit. be careful and turn your face away.
4. HERE IS THE TOUGHEST MOST TIME CONSUMING PART. You are going to have to remove the metal plate that is on top of the strut that contacts the bump stop
It is just a metal plate with 3-4 tack welds. you have to get these off with a hammer and screw driver or something similar. My problem was with teh stock struts, removing these poped my struts. each of them. and i had to buy stock replacement macphersons in a pinch. so they were the same strut and they popped off just fine. so who knows.
5. now slide the spring perch on and adjust maybe mid way. slide the spring over and then the bearings on top of that.
6. place teh strut in the mounting location on the bracket and put the lower bolt in and thread the nut but do not tighten.
7 Now place the strut in the hole of the caster cambers and jack the a arm up so it compresses the spring. when the upper hole on the strut lines up with the bracket, thread the bolt in.
8. tighten both nuts and put the nut at the top of the strut just to hold it.
9. put the wheel on and let the car on the ground. the strut is going to push up through the car higher than normal and mine required some washers to get the correct tightness
you know the little bars that goes through the top bushing? well i cut that in hjhalf to align the rod through the bushing at the top of the caster camber. yes i know aftermarket casters will be different but i used stock. I didnt need casters since i had Front runners (skinnies)
easy to change springs if youw ant 2 different setups..
ride height adjustability
i had x2cs and they are loud! clanky and such since there are no bushings another set with aftermarket caster cambers would be a different story. Just look at the set you are buying and think about if there will be metal on metal contact.
I had 14 iinch 175 pounds and they handled BETTER than stock springs. i put them on and my friend thought i had put my sway bar back on.
INATALL:
i did them with brake calipers on.
1. lower strut down by undoing top bolt and losening the strut mount bolts.
2. undo brake line bracket
3. yank the stock spring out however you see fit. be careful and turn your face away.
4. HERE IS THE TOUGHEST MOST TIME CONSUMING PART. You are going to have to remove the metal plate that is on top of the strut that contacts the bump stop
It is just a metal plate with 3-4 tack welds. you have to get these off with a hammer and screw driver or something similar. My problem was with teh stock struts, removing these poped my struts. each of them. and i had to buy stock replacement macphersons in a pinch. so they were the same strut and they popped off just fine. so who knows.
5. now slide the spring perch on and adjust maybe mid way. slide the spring over and then the bearings on top of that.
6. place teh strut in the mounting location on the bracket and put the lower bolt in and thread the nut but do not tighten.
7 Now place the strut in the hole of the caster cambers and jack the a arm up so it compresses the spring. when the upper hole on the strut lines up with the bracket, thread the bolt in.
8. tighten both nuts and put the nut at the top of the strut just to hold it.
9. put the wheel on and let the car on the ground. the strut is going to push up through the car higher than normal and mine required some washers to get the correct tightness
you know the little bars that goes through the top bushing? well i cut that in hjhalf to align the rod through the bushing at the top of the caster camber. yes i know aftermarket casters will be different but i used stock. I didnt need casters since i had Front runners (skinnies)
Rootus
Officially Addicted
You can keep the stock A-arms, you only need to change those if you go with an aftermarket K-member.donjohn said:
You do need to get 4-bolt C/C plates if you don't already have them.
Dave
95snoozer: great write-up! 
i know c/c plates would solve the 2nd problem, but they don't solve the 1st one, which is more annoying. since the coil-overs are adjustable, they can solve both problems at the same time.
anyone want to buy intrax 2" drop front springs?
I am going to them for 2 reasons: (1) my current 2" springs are so low i scrape on speed bumps and it bottoms out too much, and (2) they can't align the front wheels correctly so the tires are wearing out on the inside edges and the car shakes at 60mph because of the alignment problem.94GTLaserRC said:
i know c/c plates would solve the 2nd problem, but they don't solve the 1st one, which is more annoying. since the coil-overs are adjustable, they can solve both problems at the same time.
anyone want to buy intrax 2" drop front springs?
bjl95mustang
Founding Member
The stock arms fitting depends on the company making the k-member. My stockers fit on my qa1 k-member.
And the 4 bolt mm cc plates are awesome.
And the 4 bolt mm cc plates are awesome.
I'm getting MMR Road Race/Handling coil overs. They are on sale for $139, $164 shipped (to my zipcode at least). They fit stock A arms.
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_suspension.htm
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_suspension.htm
Read the MM install instructions for their coil over kit. That will give you a feel for it.
I think you also need CC plates (preferably 4 bolt, not 3), and you need shocks/struts capable of properly damping the much more efficient suspension geometry inherent in coil overs.
I think you also need CC plates (preferably 4 bolt, not 3), and you need shocks/struts capable of properly damping the much more efficient suspension geometry inherent in coil overs.
Rootus
Officially Addicted
I worry about coilovers that cheap. When it comes to the fundamental suspension components of the car, I refuse to skimp, it's all Maximum Motorsports.BlackVert said:
gotta stop the scraping and the tire wear. now that i have a little money from the aborted turbo project, i have to jump on it before all the money is spent on other stuff. if they don't work out, i am only out $165. and i need new tires because of the bad alignment. that's $400 right there.eades5.0 said:
there are lots of little annoying things i'm fixing too, like the worn out driver's seat, the leaky a/c tubes, the missing rear swaybar, the shaking mirrors, ...
i'm thinking about also getting the bumper painted, but it is $560 for just the bumper, and the whole car is about $1200, so i have to decide about that.
V8SHME8
Member
I would recommend changing the control arms since it will reduce weight(not like you need that spring perch anyway). Furthermore, I can not believe someone did not mention this by now, but you need to find some way to brace the rear shock towers. They were never really designed to support the weight of the car which is why you can have the shock towers tear loose along the seams in stock form. Do not buy a tokico shock either since the lower mount is not strong enough to support a coilover.
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