installing coil overs

Subscribing...I wanna know too!
RC

Take your coil springs out, slide the coil-overs over your strut, and follow the directions of where the bearings go.

Takes about 30-45min.

you've also gotta change the a-arms too right? i'm not sure how long that would take.

What is the purpose of these?

I have pretty much stock front susp except for the Steeda springs and C/C plates.

RC

I got the griggs coil overs for bilsteins, I have to replace the a arms, Also got the watts link and we ran into some trouble, still not in yet. This is turning out to be very difficult.

reduces weight
easy to change springs if youw ant 2 different setups..
ride height adjustability

i had x2cs and they are loud! clanky and such since there are no bushings another set with aftermarket caster cambers would be a different story. Just look at the set you are buying and think about if there will be metal on metal contact.

I had 14 iinch 175 pounds and they handled BETTER than stock springs. i put them on and my friend thought i had put my sway bar back on.

INATALL:

i did them with brake calipers on.

1. lower strut down by undoing top bolt and losening the strut mount bolts.

2. undo brake line bracket

3. yank the stock spring out however you see fit. be careful and turn your face away.

4. HERE IS THE TOUGHEST MOST TIME CONSUMING PART. You are going to have to remove the metal plate that is on top of the strut that contacts the bump stop
It is just a metal plate with 3-4 tack welds. you have to get these off with a hammer and screw driver or something similar. My problem was with teh stock struts, removing these poped my struts. each of them. and i had to buy stock replacement macphersons in a pinch. so they were the same strut and they popped off just fine. so who knows.

5. now slide the spring perch on and adjust maybe mid way. slide the spring over and then the bearings on top of that.

6. place teh strut in the mounting location on the bracket and put the lower bolt in and thread the nut but do not tighten.

7 Now place the strut in the hole of the caster cambers and jack the a arm up so it compresses the spring. when the upper hole on the strut lines up with the bracket, thread the bolt in.

8. tighten both nuts and put the nut at the top of the strut just to hold it.

9. put the wheel on and let the car on the ground. the strut is going to push up through the car higher than normal and mine required some washers to get the correct tightness

you know the little bars that goes through the top bushing? well i cut that in hjhalf to align the rod through the bushing at the top of the caster camber. yes i know aftermarket casters will be different but i used stock. I didnt need casters since i had Front runners (skinnies)

I have since installed h&r SS springs with new urethane bushings and love it.

way more comfortable and less embarassing than the noise of the coilovers

donjohn said:

you've also gotta change the a-arms too right? i'm not sure how long that would take.

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You can keep the stock A-arms, you only need to change those if you go with an aftermarket K-member.

You do need to get 4-bolt C/C plates if you don't already have them.

Dave

You can keep stock a-arms
Adjustability is the reason, my D&D's have 6" of adjustability.
No noise either, must be a cheap X2C thing

The stock arms fitting depends on the company making the k-member. My stockers fit on my qa1 k-member.

And the 4 bolt mm cc plates are awesome.

You can run them on a stock kmember/a-arms

Read the MM install instructions for their coil over kit. That will give you a feel for it.

I think you also need CC plates (preferably 4 bolt, not 3), and you need shocks/struts capable of properly damping the much more efficient suspension geometry inherent in coil overs.

BlackVert said:

I'm getting MMR Road Race/Handling coil overs. They are on sale for $139, $164 shipped (to my zipcode at least). They fit stock A arms.

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_suspension.htm

Click to expand...

I worry about coilovers that cheap. When it comes to the fundamental suspension components of the car, I refuse to skimp, it's all Maximum Motorsports.

Selling the turbo and buying coilovers...

I would recommend changing the control arms since it will reduce weight(not like you need that spring perch anyway). Furthermore, I can not believe someone did not mention this by now, but you need to find some way to brace the rear shock towers. They were never really designed to support the weight of the car which is why you can have the shock towers tear loose along the seams in stock form. Do not buy a tokico shock either since the lower mount is not strong enough to support a coilover.