wilsonc2222 said:this may help you decide. in the ft.worth
dallas texas area the labor charge on a header install is $1400.00 i know my limitations and had it done. i had long tubes installed and about 3 months later
my throw out bearing went out and to
get the tranny out the headers had to be
taken off. yep, another $1400,00 plus
the cost of a clutch job. no more long tubes for me. i dont care how much better they are.
007 said:Were you really dumb enough to pay those prices!!!
im sorry dude but you gotwilsonc2222 said:this may help you decide. in the ft.worth
dallas texas area the labor charge on a header install is $1400.00 i know my limitations and had it done. i had long tubes installed and about 3 months later
my throw out bearing went out and to
get the tranny out the headers had to be
taken off. yep, another $1400,00 plus
the cost of a clutch job. no more long tubes for me. i dont care how much better they are.
stangman said:the way i do it is i support the engine with a jack & a big block of wood. it looks like this
DO NOT drop the k-member without having the engine & tranny supported
UDTBadkarma said:Thanks for the advice, but did you DROP or LIFT the engien to install the headers? Is it hard to align the engine with the trans again once you unhook it and drop or raise it?
Do you have to disconnect the transmission from the engine at all?
How did you support the engine? with JUST the jack? It actually balanaced on that alone? ...and with the jack there you still had the room to work?
NasaGT said:Wow, can't beleive the naysayers here.
Header installs are not technically hard, as said above they are just time consuming. As for his question, the starter is kindof hidden and I'm sure alot of people don't know where it is. It is located on the passenger side of the engine right next to where the header and H-pipe come together. You have to remove the H-pipe to get to the starter.
UDTBadkarma said:Well like I said, after removing and installing two 350 Chevy Engines last week for a friend, and installing one back into his other truck, I now know most of hte parts to the engine so I think im more than capable to do this install.
Just need some other advice
Like: Where can i get a 13mm "S" wrench from? No one sells them!!!!
Rocketman said:I got mine here. http://www.harborfreight.com/
The design of the JBA Shorty's is different than the BBK shorty's that I did and needed the S wrench for. It still might come in handy for JBA's though.
UDTBadkarma said:So if I go the "Wont remove the K-member" route, do you guys think I will need to remove my Strut Tower Brace at all? I would REALLY, REALLY love to NOT have to remove that
02BlkStang said:All that work and money for ~4rwhp isn't worth it IMO.
Long tubes or nothing, and our stock manifolds are good until around 300rwhp anyways. You'd be a lot better off getting a T/A or some UD Pullies.
UDTBadkarma said:And shorty headers give more like 10-15rwhp not 4
mity2 said:no offense, but who told you that shorty is good for 10~15RWHP??
that would mean shorty would add about15~20 at the crank.
Man is that mean when I add my BBK LT header, i would get almost 30~35rwhp??
Mustang Tuning said:Provides dyno-proven increases of over 30 rear-wheel hp when paired with one of our matching "shorty"-style X-pipes
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