Installing Subframe conn on 87 Convertable

Ted87GT

Founding Member
Sep 21, 2001
58
0
6
Southern Maine
I am thinking about full length, welded, subframe connectors for my 87 GT convertable. Anyone installed these themselves? I can weld, so no problem with that part. I looked under the car last night to check out the stock braces that the 'verts come with. They're - pop rivited. Yikes, what where those Ford engineers thinking! There also were some black plates (not a good description, but they were basically flat) that were bolted to the pop-rivited braces and to somewhere towards the center of the car. I didn't jack the car up so I couldn't see exactly where.

Do the existing braces make it real difficult to install subframes? Do I weld in the exisitng braces or ditch them? I was expecting the pop-rivited braces as I have heard about them, but I was surprised about the other bracing. Do they stay or go?

Any info, tips, war stories, etc appreciated!

Ted senior (my son uses this ID too)
 
Usually, the ford bracing goes when you weld in aftermarket subs. The pop rivet stuff doesn't really do anything to help stiffen the car anyway.

The subs I use are the Western motorsports tubular subframes. They are very stiff and virtually indestructable.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/uncola


I didn't weld them on myself, so I don't know how difficult they were to install.

www.wmsracing.com Here is the link to western motorsports

http://www.wmsracing.com/pgi-ProductSpec?WMS-SFC79M and here is the link to subframes themselves
 
You can weld them in yourself, just make sure your car is properly supported before you tack them on. If you have the car in the air, you have to make sure your frame is straight as if all 4 wheels were on the ground.

I've heard of some guys putting their foxbodies up on a lift, welding the subframes on, only to find that when they put the car back on the floor and tried to open one of the doors, they couldn't! Yikes !
 
Support the car on jack stands uner the rear axles and front A-arms, that way it will sit on the stands like it does on the ground. You have to drill out the rivets and remove the factory braces. You can trim the braces and weld them back in after the subs if you want, but I didn't. The braces you mention are two "V" shaped round tube braces flattened on the ends and the top of the V. The V tops of both bolt to the K memeber and run forward to the radiator brace and rearward to the area of the riveted chassis braces.
 
I would recommend the Maximum Motorsports subs, they come with various reinforcements that weld in and really make a nice package when you're done. I'm sure my T-top was as floppy as your vert before I had mine installed, you won't believe the difference! :nice:
 
Full lengths you'll have to grind off part of some chassis bracing that's already there. Just the lip part of it, though, nothing major. Took about 10 minutes on mine.
 
mansonozz said:
Full lengths you'll have to grind off part of some chassis bracing that's already there. Just the lip part of it, though, nothing major. Took about 10 minutes on mine.
Dave, i thought you once posted something negative about having subs installed (something about the ride quality or something)? is that right, or am i off base as usual?
 
No complaints from me,. There's just a little more to the story, that's all.

I'd installed Bilstein HD struts & shocks before I got around to doing the SFCs. The Bilsteins are very stiff and provided great, tight ride quality. When I put the SFCs in, the difference wasn't as great as it would've been had I still had a weak suspension. I could still tell a difference but it wasn't "day and night" like it would've been without the Bilsteins.
 
mansonozz said:
No complaints from me,. There's just a little more to the story, that's all.

I'd installed Bilstein HD struts & shocks before I got around to doing the SFCs. The Bilsteins are very stiff and provided great, tight ride quality. When I put the SFCs in, the difference wasn't as great as it would've been had I still had a weak suspension. I could still tell a difference but it wasn't "day and night" like it would've been without the Bilsteins.
ooops. my bad Dave. :)
thanks for the clarification. when i was reading sub frame threads once, i thought i remembered something from you indicating lackluster results. obviously i remembered somewhat correctly but completely wrong. LOL. :bang:

thanks again. :)
 
No prob :nice:

I might have said before that I rather would not have gone through the whole installation - I had to pay for the welding as well as take quite a trip to/from the shop because no one in my area did I trust w/my car. That totalled out quite high.

Without the stiff Bilsteins, the improvement over non-braced cars will be great. Bilsteins are just that good!
 
mansonozz said:
No prob :nice:

I might have said before that I rather would not have gone through the whole installation - I had to pay for the welding as well as take quite a trip to/from the shop because no one in my area did I trust w/my car. That totalled out quite high.

Without the stiff Bilsteins, the improvement over non-braced cars will be great. Bilsteins are just that good!
wow, glowing recommendation on the Bils. :nice:

must be nice to have resources to pamper the S.C. as you do. :)