Intake Removal
- Thread starter geordie
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65fastback2+2
New Member
LMan
Founding Member
Be sure to get ALL of the bolts out before trying to remove it. It will probably be stuck. Use a rubber hammer to smack the crap out of the end to break the seal. If this doesn't work you may need to pry it up but be careful not to damage the sealing surface! Some manifolds have small slots on them to allow a place to pry them up.
FasterThenU72
New Member
Just make sure that you dont forget to remove that rotating reverse axled splint shaft bearing, itll make it that much easier to take the manifold off..... 
just kidding, just kidding.....nope like they said its simple and straightforward, just have a prybar ready, cause if yours is anything like mine, its gonna suck, talk about the prev owner using to much RTV........ 
just kidding, just kidding.....nope like they said its simple and straightforward, just have a prybar ready, cause if yours is anything like mine, its gonna suck, talk about the prev owner using to much RTV........ My engine is not the original '65 289. I thought that the rotating reverse axled splint shaft bearing had been replaced on later engines by the shielded dylithium crystal reverse taper hyperdrive coupling. I hope for your sake that NPD still stock the rotating reverse axled splint shaft bearing.
Ha...ha....ha.....
Thanks for the help guys.
Ha...ha....ha.....
Thanks for the help guys.
The dylithium crystal reverse taper hyperdrive coupling was found to be unreliable also and has since been replaced with the thermonuclear steel braided wanker shaft drive. I think Autozone is carrying them with a lifetime warranty, but you have to ask for one for a 2000 or later space shuttle; the 99 and earlier are dylithium crystal.
Although removing an intake is a no brainer, installing one correctly is not. Use sealer in the corners where the gaskets meet, I also use a small amount around the coolant ports as well. Also with a small block ( 289/302) it also helps to use four long carb studs screwed into four of the intake bolt holes in the heads to help guide the intake into place, then remove them after getting the other bolts started. As for torquing the bolts, use a torque wrench, start with the middle bolts, and work outward, in a criss-cross fashion and do not torque it more than 20 ft/lbs. Many times 15-18 is plenty. Torque all the bolts 5-6 times till the intake settles. As for the end gaskets, some swear by them ( like me) and some do with just silicone sealer. I only use just sealer if the end gaps are too small for the gaskets.
FasterThenU72
New Member
2nd Mustang
Founding Member
I replaced my intake manifold gaskets a few months ago. I did cut four studs and used them as guides. I tossed the end gaskets and used silicone gasket maker. I also was able to do this without removing the distributor, had to be cautious, but it is possible.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
FasterThenU72 said:
Probably, but for some reason the cork gaskets have a wierd tendency to push out. I like the silicone end gaskets since they have shoulders and tabs that keep them from going anywhere. Alot of people seem to just run a fat bead of silicone on there in place of a gasket and it appears to work.
Removal is fairly easy. I just use a flat blade screwdriver on the side and turn it sideways where it doesn’t want to come lose. I've used the end gaskets with sealant before and the front one pushed out a little bit but it still sealed. My last one I didn’t use the gaskets and it has worked fine. I have also never removed the distributor, unless it’s a Chevy...duh. Use sealant around the water passages and torque from the middle, out.
brianj5600
Active Member
I am suprised they even still make end gaskets. Silicone is easy to use and easy to get off for the next install. I guess you know my suggestion.
Thanks for the replies guys. I pulled the intake off on Saturday evening. My nine year old daughter was providing the labor. As I was bagging up some parts she asked what we were doing next. I showed her the intake and told her that we were going to undo all the bolts starting in the middle and working out in a zig zag manner, a half a turn at a time. She got the socket out and positioned it over the first bolt. 'Hold on' I said 'they are going to be tight, let me help'. She said 'it's ok Dad they are loose'. Sure enough they were all tightened to just beyond hand tight. The intake lifted off easily. The timing cover and oil pan bolts were similarly 'loose'.
I wonder how tight my cylinder head bolts are? What should the torque be?
The PO told me when I bought the car that he was getting old and his strength was failing. No kidding!
I wonder how tight my cylinder head bolts are? What should the torque be?
The PO told me when I bought the car that he was getting old and his strength was failing. No kidding!
84convertablegt
New Member
well, trust me its not always that easy, i broke a casting off of the side of the head trying to pry the intake off. finally i had to lift the motor to brake the seal. i swear to god, i lifted the motor an inch before the intake broke free. 40 years of gaskets and oil is no joke!!!! but dont fear, the whole block and heads were replaced. i thought i was gonna pull the damn motor with no intake bolts !!!!!!!!
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
According to my 1968 Cougar/Fairlane/Falcon/Montego/Mustang shop manual, head bolts for a 289-302 should be 65-72lb-ft. 100 is in 1/2" bolt/351W/390FE territory. A 1/2" drive 18"+ breaker bar will make short work of head bolts, though.
84convertablegt
New Member
i was surprised, i only needed a 3/8" standard size ratchet to break loose the head bolts. the top ones were a little bit harder though. taking stuff apart is the easy job though 
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