Intro/problem thread

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frequency101

New Member
Feb 1, 2011
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#1
Well hello every-one, this is officially my first post on the forum.

First, a little about myself, I recently purchased a 99 GT 5-speed from the dealership I work at (wholesale, no warranty, etc..). I work in the parts department, so I am able to get allot of help from my master techs, and access to scanners. The only problem is that the ford rotunda current is in-op... Anyway, its my first mustang, and hell, I've never owned anything besides a chevy (I swear it was coincidence), and I've owned 3 LS1 camaro's, a Z06, and I currently own a ls1 corvette as well. I purchased the GT as a good commuter, but its already given me a couple headaches in its first day...

The major problem!
-No start, no crank, no clicks, nothing. Stuck at my work in the parking lot. No after market electronics.

When I first purchased the car, I installed a new battery, and changed the oil. Car was starting prior to the new battery, it just tested bad, so I replaced it to avoid any problems. Car started fine and drove fine about 10 starts after that with no issues at all. Today, I get in the car to drive to lunch, and I got the no start issue. The only thing I noticed was the theft light on the dash would blink after I removed the key.

Now, from what I've been told the blinking theft light means the car needs a new key, while if the theft light stayed lit, the PATS system itself had an internal error. Also, I do not know if the theft light normally flashes when the key is removed...

Which leads me to the starter solenoid. Is the solenoid another potential area to look at? Is it common on these? During the entire time since I first saw the car, starting has never been an issue. Started right up every time for about a week and a half.

I did not pull any codes for the PATS system, but I did get a P1233, which leads me to the second problem
-Slight hesitation under accel

This I think is wired down to the fuel pump module, but is there something else I should look at? I really want this car running asap... I am really anxious to drive it. /the car has a bunch of new parts on it already, and is asking to be driven...

Thanks for any help you guys can provide... heres a quick picture of the car during an inspection prior to purchase...

167200_1802886840398_1486650107_31931919_5582973_n.jpg
 
#4
Nice looking car. You sure it's a 99 with that hood scoop? I thought 99s had a V6-style hood... Maybe not. In any case, those wheels look good with that colour.

The theft light blinks about once every second or two when the key is out.

Re No cranking:

If the car has a manual transmission, you might check the clutch pedal position switch. A scan tool should give you access to that.

If you turn the headlights on and attempt to start it, do the lights dim at all? Or go out?
 
#5
frequency101 said:
Well hello every-one, this is officially my first post on the forum.

First, a little about myself, I recently purchased a 99 GT 5-speed from the dealership I work at (wholesale, no warranty, etc..). I work in the parts department, so I am able to get allot of help from my master techs, and access to scanners. The only problem is that the ford rotunda current is in-op... Anyway, its my first mustang, and hell, I've never owned anything besides a chevy (I swear it was coincidence), and I've owned 3 LS1 camaro's, a Z06, and I currently own a ls1 corvette as well. I purchased the GT as a good commuter, but its already given me a couple headaches in its first day...

The major problem!
-No start, no crank, no clicks, nothing. Stuck at my work in the parking lot. No after market electronics.

When I first purchased the car, I installed a new battery, and changed the oil. Car was starting prior to the new battery, it just tested bad, so I replaced it to avoid any problems. Car started fine and drove fine about 10 starts after that with no issues at all. Today, I get in the car to drive to lunch, and I got the no start issue. The only thing I noticed was the theft light on the dash would blink after I removed the key.

Now, from what I've been told the blinking theft light means the car needs a new key, while if the theft light stayed lit, the PATS system itself had an internal error. Also, I do not know if the theft light normally flashes when the key is removed...

Which leads me to the starter solenoid. Is the solenoid another potential area to look at? Is it common on these? During the entire time since I first saw the car, starting has never been an issue. Started right up every time for about a week and a half.

I did not pull any codes for the PATS system, but I did get a P1233, which leads me to the second problem
-Slight hesitation under accel

This I think is wired down to the fuel pump module, but is there something else I should look at? I really want this car running asap... I am really anxious to drive it. /the car has a bunch of new parts on it already, and is asking to be driven...

Thanks for any help you guys can provide... heres a quick picture of the car during an inspection prior to purchase...

167200_1802886840398_1486650107_31931919_5582973_n.jpg
Click to expand...



I had a similar problem on my 99 GT(also a "Limited Edition" GT). BTW, great looking car.
In about 2006 I experienced a problem where the car would not crank in cold weather with temps below 60 degrees. The theft light would blink but not crank. It would turn over though. Once the temp got above that 60 degree mark, car would start just fine. Got it to the dealer and they replaced the module that controls the PATS system. Not sure if this is the same problem, but who knows. It was a $150 part and was replaced in 15 minutes.

Maybe this helps.

-Jason
 
#9
When you turn the key to the 'run' position, does the car power on normally - warning lights come on, seatbelt & door chimes chime appropriately, radio and HVAC fan come on? Does everything come on strong, or do they come on slowly and weakly or come on at first and then get weaker and then die?

As Trinity asked, what happens when you turn the key to 'start'? Lights get dimmer or go out? Put a voltmeter on the battery and see what happens when you try to start it - does the voltage drop way down?

Check for loose or corroded connections at the battery.

Will it crank with a jump? If so, test the battery and alternator again.

Even though you put a new battery in, it could be a dud or whatever killed the last battery could've killed this one. My experience with batteries has been that they don't give you much warning anymore that they're dying and modern cars won't run with less than a healthy battery and it may not even attempt to start if the battery voltage is below a certain level.

Once you're sure the car is getting good power from the battery, then you can start looking at other areas.
 
#10
Thanks for the reply's guys,

Ok, so our locksmith is going to take a look at the car tonight, and he does have a working rotunda, so we can at least access the PATS system, and see if that is at fault or the key. The battery voltage does not drop when trying to start the car. All lights on the dash work normally as i the car will start.

For ****s and giggles I did try to jump it with the same results. No click, or any sign that its trying to turn over. Once we finally get the ford tool we'll check the neutral safety switch and see if thats another cause for concern.

So last question, can it be the solenoid on the starter, or does the theft light basically eliminate that?

Also, for the hood scoop and side scoops and stuff, its defiantly a 99, some one has modified the car very tastefully, which is why I purchased it. I wouldn't be surprised if they updated the scoops and spoiler.
 
#13
frequency101 said:
Thanks for the reply's guys,


Also, for the hood scoop and side scoops and stuff, its defiantly a 99, some one has modified the car very tastefully, which is why I purchased it. I wouldn't be surprised if they updated the scoops and spoiler.
Click to expand...

So let me ask you this, does your GT have the silver and charcoal two-tone interior/silver gauge cluster/door panels? I can see you have the correct rocker molding for a "Limited"(yes, they are different than a regular GT) if so, its a "Limited Edition".

-Jason
 
#14
VOORHEES said:
So let me ask you this, does your GT have the silver and charcoal two-tone interior/silver gauge cluster/door panels? I can see you have the correct rocker molding for a "Limited"(yes, they are different than a regular GT) if so, its a "Limited Edition".

-Jason
Click to expand...

Yes it does. So its a limited edition? I guess thats cool.. haha.
 
#17
Well good news! My locksmith discovered a secret kill switch that I accidentally messed with when I parked it that night... Needless to say I got the car home, which is a huge relief.

When I got it home, me and a friend swapped the intake, only to notice its been leaking for a little while. The passengers side spark plug holes were filled with coolant. The intake has been swapped once already, but some-one went silicone crazy. The intake was busted under the thermostat, but was obviously leaking every where else. We cleaned up all the silicone, and put dielectric grease on the coils and plugs, but apparently that wasn't enough to prevent a misfire.

The new intake went on with out a hitch, but the car developed a serious mis-fire. We hooked up the scan tool and noticed cylinders 1,2, and 4 were mis-firing. 1-4 are all on the passengers side where the huge coolant leak was. Obviously the coolant destroyed the coils, so I replace those three. Mis-fire is gone, and car runs like a champ now.

Yeah, I should replace all 8, but I didn't feel like spending $300 today. Also, the other coils aren't showing any mis-fire, so I'm not going to mess with them. Anyway, car is home safe, parked next to the vette, so all is well finally...

Voorhees, I'll send that vin when I pull the paperwork out of my car... thanks fo the help every-one !
 
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