Jack Stands
- Thread starter My Yellow Stang
- Start date
Emay
Member
Put the car in the air via diff, support the axle on each side with a jackstand. Then get to work..
kooldawg6
mine works really well and can take a fair amount
red05bullitgt
Member
According to the CHE performance website. They do NOT recommend supporting the vehicle at either the LCA or UCA locations. Their instructions clearly state.
With the rear wheels properly blocked, raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with jack stands along the structure of the vehicle. Because you will be removing the bolts that attach the front A-arms to the k-member, do not support the weight of the vehicle at the wheels or on the control arms. The front wheels should be hanging freely above the floor.
With the rear wheels properly blocked, raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with jack stands along the structure of the vehicle. Because you will be removing the bolts that attach the front A-arms to the k-member, do not support the weight of the vehicle at the wheels or on the control arms. The front wheels should be hanging freely above the floor.
I don't think we are talking about front LCA's here. But your correct. To do the fronts you would have to support the car on the frame.
kooldawg6
mine works really well and can take a fair amount
I love you guys but you're killing me. I still have to install my LCAs and relocation brackets and now I am confused. The first thing that Bigcat has in his write-up is to support the car so that the suspension hangs free, you guys are saying to support the car from the rear axle/differential. Wouldn't the suspension be compressed like this? Hopefully I get to try this out this weekend.
Emay
Member
That's correct. I've got this process down to literally a 30 minute job on LCA's.. Do one side at a time and next to no movement occurs with the axle.
If your using Big Cats write up. You can do it that way as well, that gives you some more freedom for movement. I prefer my way, because there isn't really any movement that occurs. You'll understand better once under the car. If you want, do one his way, then do one the way I stated or vice versa..
i found that as longs as you dont take an hour per side, there is very little movement the way i did it. it does not take long to remove a few bolts and reinstall. just assemble the arms first.
either way is fine, simply up to you. i found it easier to not have jack stands in the same area you are trying to remove bolts. they can be in the way during your work.
one side at a time is definitely the way to go. if you assemble the arms and remove the parking brake cable before removing any bolts, the process goes smoother, IMO.
If you swap quickly, having the rear suspension hanging shouldn't be a problem. That's how I did them on both cars. That said, you still need to torque them with the suspension loaded. So it would be time saving to support the car with the axle housing. Just make sure when you position your jack stands, you leave room to get to all the bolts.
red05bullitgt
Member
I would also like to clear up, that if My Yellow Stang had specified, he was referring to the rear LCA/UCA's. I wouldn't had misinterpreted his question, to begin with.+1!
...but thanks red05bullitgt for clearing it up for anybody wondering out there
However being that he didn't specify, I really had no way of knowing. So I just assumed he was referring to the front LCA/UCA's
Anyway, my apologies for any misunderstandings on my part. For I was just trying to be helpful.
Rocky
red05bullitgt
Member
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