• Mustang Forums
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

Jack Stands

  • Thread starter Thread starter My Yellow Stang
  • Start date Start date Feb 6, 2008
M

My Yellow Stang

New Member
Dec 13, 2007
8
0
1
Nine Mile Falls, Wa
Feb 6, 2008
#1
  • Feb 6, 2008
  • #1
Going to change UCA & LCA, need advice on where to jack the car up ( I have 2 floor jacks ) and where to place jack stands to support car
 

Emay

Member
Oct 4, 2006
228
1
18
South Elgin, IL
Feb 6, 2008
#2
  • Feb 6, 2008
  • #2
Put the car in the air via diff, support the axle on each side with a jackstand. Then get to work..
 

kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount
Aug 31, 2006
1,679
2
38
Central VA
Feb 6, 2008
#3
  • Feb 6, 2008
  • #3
So you can remove/install both sets of control arms with weight on the axle? Cool!
 

Towelly

New Member
May 9, 2006
174
0
0
Feb 6, 2008
#4
  • Feb 6, 2008
  • #4
The springs are what hold the car up, so I dont' see why not. The LCA's and UCA just locate the axle more than anything.
 

red05bullitgt

Member
Aug 15, 2005
861
0
16
Pittsburgh, PA.
Feb 6, 2008
#5
  • Feb 6, 2008
  • #5
According to the CHE performance website. They do NOT recommend supporting the vehicle at either the LCA or UCA locations. Their instructions clearly state.


With the rear wheels properly blocked, raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with jack stands along the structure of the vehicle. Because you will be removing the bolts that attach the front A-arms to the k-member, do not support the weight of the vehicle at the wheels or on the control arms. The front wheels should be hanging freely above the floor.
 

Towelly

New Member
May 9, 2006
174
0
0
Feb 7, 2008
#6
  • Feb 7, 2008
  • #6
red05bullitgt said:
According to the CHE performance website. They do NOT recommend supporting the vehicle at either the LCA or UCA locations. Their instructions clearly state.


With the rear wheels properly blocked, raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with jack stands along the structure of the vehicle. Because you will be removing the bolts that attach the front A-arms to the k-member, do not support the weight of the vehicle at the wheels or on the control arms. The front wheels should be hanging freely above the floor.
Click to expand...

I don't think we are talking about front LCA's here. But your correct. To do the fronts you would have to support the car on the frame.
 

kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount
Aug 31, 2006
1,679
2
38
Central VA
Feb 7, 2008
#7
  • Feb 7, 2008
  • #7
Towelly said:
I don't think we are talking about front LCA's here. But your correct. To do the fronts you would have to support the car on the frame.
Click to expand...

+1!
...but thanks red05bullitgt for clearing it up for anybody wondering out there
 
M

MikeysOTP

New Member
Mar 29, 2007
203
1
0
Feb 7, 2008
#8
  • Feb 7, 2008
  • #8
I love you guys but you're killing me. I still have to install my LCAs and relocation brackets and now I am confused. The first thing that Bigcat has in his write-up is to support the car so that the suspension hangs free, you guys are saying to support the car from the rear axle/differential. Wouldn't the suspension be compressed like this? Hopefully I get to try this out this weekend.
 

Emay

Member
Oct 4, 2006
228
1
18
South Elgin, IL
Feb 7, 2008
#9
  • Feb 7, 2008
  • #9
Towelly said:
The springs are what hold the car up, so I dont' see why not. The LCA's and UCA just locate the axle more than anything.
Click to expand...

That's correct. I've got this process down to literally a 30 minute job on LCA's.. Do one side at a time and next to no movement occurs with the axle.

If your using Big Cats write up. You can do it that way as well, that gives you some more freedom for movement. I prefer my way, because there isn't really any movement that occurs. You'll understand better once under the car. If you want, do one his way, then do one the way I stated or vice versa..
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Feb 7, 2008
#10
  • Feb 7, 2008
  • #10
Emay said:
That's correct. I've got this process down to literally a 30 minute job on LCA's.. Do one side at a time and next to no movement occurs with the axle.
Click to expand...

i found that as longs as you dont take an hour per side, there is very little movement the way i did it. it does not take long to remove a few bolts and reinstall. just assemble the arms first.

either way is fine, simply up to you. i found it easier to not have jack stands in the same area you are trying to remove bolts. they can be in the way during your work.

one side at a time is definitely the way to go. if you assemble the arms and remove the parking brake cable before removing any bolts, the process goes smoother, IMO.
 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
Feb 7, 2008
#11
  • Feb 7, 2008
  • #11
If you swap quickly, having the rear suspension hanging shouldn't be a problem. That's how I did them on both cars. That said, you still need to torque them with the suspension loaded. So it would be time saving to support the car with the axle housing. Just make sure when you position your jack stands, you leave room to get to all the bolts.
 

red05bullitgt

Member
Aug 15, 2005
861
0
16
Pittsburgh, PA.
Feb 8, 2008
#12
  • Feb 8, 2008
  • #12
kooldawg6 said:
+1!
...but thanks red05bullitgt for clearing it up for anybody wondering out there
Click to expand...
I would also like to clear up, that if My Yellow Stang had specified, he was referring to the rear LCA/UCA's. I wouldn't had misinterpreted his question, to begin with.

However being that he didn't specify, I really had no way of knowing. So I just assumed he was referring to the front LCA/UCA's


Anyway, my apologies for any misunderstandings on my part. For I was just trying to be helpful.



Rocky
 
M

My Yellow Stang

New Member
Dec 13, 2007
8
0
1
Nine Mile Falls, Wa
Feb 9, 2008
#13
  • Feb 9, 2008
  • #13
Hey thanks red 05bullitgt for the info do need help with front and rear since I'm doing the Eibach pro with D Specs, any and all info is greatly appreciated
 

red05bullitgt

Member
Aug 15, 2005
861
0
16
Pittsburgh, PA.
Feb 9, 2008
#14
  • Feb 9, 2008
  • #14
Your very welcome, Yellow
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Convertible help needed Please
  • Curtis Harper
  • Apr 27, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
8
Views
256
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- May 26, 2026
Mustang5L5
C
Is my axle shaft cooked?
  • crazyone64
  • Jul 15, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
18
Views
483
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Aug 16, 2025
crazyone64
C
Autolite closing
  • FastDriver
  • May 3, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
32
Views
845
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 9, 2026
TOOLOW91
D
Drivetrain car still rolling while in gear and off
  • dqureshi06
  • Jan 24, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
3
Views
238
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jan 24, 2026
General karthief
68 vert where to start?
  • 67 blueberry
  • Jul 2, 2026
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
68
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Jul 2, 2026
67 blueberry
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?