Junk Yard Dog is alive!

Rag in the carb? lol, just checkin to be sure...

I'd have to guess you accelerator pedal isn't hooked up.

d

A mechanic..



Just kidding Be a little more specific on what you mean when you say it "won't rev up"

Hmmm. Kinda sounds like a timing issue. Could be in the carb aswell. Are you sure you got all the vacuum hoses hooked up right? Got any vacuum leaks? When you timed the engine, was the vacuum advance vacuum line pulled off and capped? What's known about the carb? Is the accelerator pump working? (squitrs fuel into the carb venturis when throttled) There's a few things to check out.

1WildII said:

ok I plugged the vaccum advance line and now it runs fine, but when I pug it back in it runs like ****, any ideas why this would occur?

Chris

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Your distributor has a slider plate which allows the vaccum advance arm to pull it to a different position when vaccum drops as the throttle plates are opened quickly from idle. Your slider is worn out. It will need rebuilt or more likely replacement of the distributor. It also sounds like you have a couple spark plug wires crossed, recheck your firing order.

Stewart Ledford said:

Your distributor has a slider plate which allows the vaccum advance arm to pull it to the retard position when vaccum is present. Your slider is worn out. It will need rebuilt or more likely replacement o the distributor. It also sounds like you have a couple spark plug wires crossed, recheck your firing order.

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i agree, spark plug wires could be the problem or a part of the problem.

1WildII said:

if tranny fluid is dripping off the cross member where do you think it would be coming from? It only leaks when the motor is running.

Chris

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I wish I had that problem mine leaks sitting oh well
check the fluid cooler lines may be leaking.

Check to make sure you are using ported vaccum not full manifold vaccum ( just a different place on the carb)


What is your timing set to?

with the line disconnected does it advance when you rev it?

connected it should advance even more.

What have you done to it rebuild engine. did you replace the timming gearset.

Check the following areas for transmission fluid leaks. Transmission cooling lines. Check the dipstick tube O ring. Check the modulator valve for leaks. Check the pan gasket, converter seal, and speedometer cable seal.

1WildII said:

I'll look into it, and I'll go over the firing order once more. Another question, if tranny fluid is dripping off the cross member where do you think it would be coming from? It only leaks when the motor is running.

Chris

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Whoa! Hold on there... I noticed a couple descrepancies on the vacuum timing discussion. (not picking on anyone, intentionally )

Your distributor has a slider plate which allows the vaccum advance arm to pull it to the retard position when vaccum is present.

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Actually when vacuum is present, it should be 'advancing' and timing not retarding it as long as it's hooked up right. Now this goes for both single and dual diaphram advance units. When I say advance unit, I'm talking about the device on the front of the distributor that has either one or two vacuum lines running to it. Now here's the catch- the majority of the mustang II's have what's called a dual diaphram advance, easily identified by the advance unit having two vacuum ports. The forward most port, usually pointing tward the radiator in some fashion, is the "advance" part of the unit. The other port, usually pointing tward the hood, is called the "retard" part. The retard part of the unit runs off of 'manifold' vaccum aka- constant vacuum at idle. But the trip from the manifold to the retard side of the advance is accompanied by temperature sensed valves that are located on the intake and T-stat housing. These valves control when the 'retard' is applied in relation to engine temperature. On the 'advance' side normally you only have one line running directly from a port on the carb. I can't remember for sure, but I know I've seen this line Tee'd before and a third line running to another component. Just can't remember what it was. This line runs off what is called ported vacuum aka- vacuum present when carb is throttled, but NOT at idle. If you do have vacuum present at this port and you're sure it is the correct port, then you have internal carb issues and the carb will have to be repaired/rebuilt.
Now since you're in the state of washington, your smog system is allowed to be non-op so to make your troubleshooting easier, plug and cap the retard line at the manifold vacuum tree (usually at the back behind the carb) make sure the advance line has a straight shot (nothing else feeding vacuum off of it) to the distributor and that it's pluged into the proper port (on an autolie/motorcraft carb- on RH side (pass) just below and in front of the choke housing, may be blocked a little by a heat plate)

connected it should advance even more.

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No it should not. If the carb is properly set up there should be NO extra advance unless you throttle the carb. If you do then your primaries are open to far to attain proper idle.


If you can isolate where exactly the tranny leak is comming from we could probably give you a better idea as to what is the villian. The torque converter seal is probably the worst and last part you want to leak because you'll have to divorce the tranny and engine to fix it. The rest of the scenarios the other members described are not difficult at all to fix.

Hope I didn't bombard you with too much info. I just like to breifly explain how it works before getting into how to fix it, to help you to better understand what you're doing.

Dano78 said:

Whoa! Hold on there... I noticed a couple descrepancies on the vacuum timing discussion. (not picking on anyone, intentionally

zwhitr said:

with the line disconnected does it advance when you rev it?

connected it should advance even more.

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No it should not. If the carb is properly set up there should be NO extra advance unless you throttle the carb.

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I said when you rev it

It won't necessarily advance more but it will be more pronounced --earlier

I set the timing for 10 degree advance.

A 74 302 should be timed at 6-8 degrees BTDC, not ATDC, if it's basicly a stock mill.

It's my guess the accelerator pump isn't working. It's also my guess there is something plugging the high speed ports. What you describe is classic leanout.

I've seen awfully screwed up timing, the engines ran like crap but they still ran.

How long has this engine been sitting?

zwhitr said:

I said when you rev it

It won't necessarily advance more but it will be more pronounced --earlier

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My bad Z! Don't know how I interpeted that wrong. As I was typing I was thinkin to myself, how you could have got that backwards, cause I was sure you knew that! Appearantly I was the one with my head in my pooper.