Just bought an E303 cam, need advice!

[deftsound]

So i got a really good deal on an E303 cam on craigslist for 65$, right now im running the stock H/C/I and am wanting to go ahead and put the cam in.

My question is what else do i need besides the cam? I know i need lifters, but what kind? Will i need new roller rockers? What about valve springs?

Will i need a custom tune? I have heard the computers on our 94-95's are kinda finicky about mods, is this true? If so what do i need to do to put this cam in and make it work, make power and idle correctly?

Thanks! :SNSign:

mods sorry if this was supposed to go in tech

 

[LRSjmac]

While some people will argue this point, I always suggest replacing the valve springs as they are barely up to the task of handling the stock cam. Roller rockers are not a bad idea considering the amount of flex present in the stock stamped rockers. If your stock lifters are in good shape, re-use them. Roller lifters in good condition can be re-used with no ill effect. A tune probably won't be necessary; I know of several 94-95's that act just fine with the E cam, but every car is different.

 

[deftsound]

While some people will argue this point, I always suggest replacing the valve springs as they are barely up to the task of handling the stock cam. Roller rockers are not a bad idea considering the amount of flex present in the stock stamped rockers. If your stock lifters are in good shape, re-use them. Roller lifters in good condition can be re-used with no ill effect. A tune probably won't be necessary; I know of several 94-95's that act just fine with the E cam, but every car is different.

Would it be worth upgrading to 1.7 rr's or will the 1.6's work fine for my application? Will the 1.7's work with the e303 cam? I thought i heard somewhere that you had to use 1.6's but i think i heard wrong...

Also which valve springs should i use? Do i need a double roller timing chain?

Sorry for all the dumb questions im so used to my 99 sohc that the 5.0 world is kinda new to me!

 

[LRSjmac]

I'd stick with 1.6 rockers. Trick Flow makes an affordable valve spring upgrade kit for stock heads that works well.

 

[94-302-vert]

I guess my question is what kind of power you will get out of this. I would think minimal due to the heads and Intake... especially the stock intake...

 

[deftsound]

I guess my question is what kind of power you will get out of this. I would think minimal due to the heads and Intake... especially the stock intake...

probably so, but i figure if i go ahead and put the cam in i can put an intake and heads on later down the road.

 

[99FiveOh]

And to answer your question about a double roller, absolutely!

 

[Zero Signal]

You are more likely to get idle problems than noticeable power gain with an E303 on the stock heads. You will definitely want a tune. Parts wise, on top of what was already mentioned, you may consider new valve stem seals if you are changing the springs. Go for a new timing set and coolant hoses since you're in there. Also, make sure your distributor gear is in good condition and the whole thing spins smoothly since it will be out.

Don't get 1.7 ratio rockers. 1.6s will be fine, but I would check p-v clearance anyway just to be safe.

Depending on the geometry of the rockers, you may need new pushrods. You will need to verify that when you get it together. New lifters don't hurt, but I wouldn't bother if they all pump up. They aren't throw-away like flat tappets.

You can pick up a degree wheel, but most timing sets like the edelbrocks have marks with 4° advance/retard and center so you should be able to get it pretty much right on. I'm anal and check it with a wheel anyway. I like checking things . . .

 

[99FiveOh]

Yes! Those upper heater bypass hoses will probably get ruined when you take the water pump and timing cover off, so plan ahead and have them ready, and don't forget your gaskets, coolant and nice new clamps for the new hoses!

And check around, there's a tool you can get that will allow you swap your cam without removing your lower intake manifold! They are like threaded rod with a strong magnet on one end and a wingnut on the other. I've used them with great success!

 

[94-302-vert]

And check around, there's a tool you can get that will allow you swap your cam without removing your lower intake manifold! They are like threaded rod with a strong magnet on one end and a wingnut on the other. I've used them with great success!

The_Mustang: SO if I am guessing right, this tool is so that once the pushrods are out of the way you use this tool to pull the lifters up off the cam?

 

[LRSjmac]

The_Mustang: SO if I am guessing right, this tool is so that once the pushrods are out of the way you use this tool to pull the lifters up off the cam?

Quick Cam Change Tools do make the job a bit easier!

 

[final5-0]

I also say you most likely got weak v springs
and
The new cam will just tax it all the more

Here is a thought or two

Why put money in a set of old iron OEM E7's

I mean ... If you look around a bit ........
You can find some p heads

Yes they still will be
heavy
have weak v springs
have poor e flow
BUT
They will flow better and work with that e cam better

If you are gonna sink any cash in old stuff
at least
Use some old stuff that will work better
and
I'd bet ... if you beat the bushes ... they won't set you back much

besides ... why do a head change ... TWICE

Too much work and expense with gaskets and the like :Word:

Grady

 

[Black Stampede]

As was said, definitely upgrade the valve springs. The trick flow, as was said, is a good kit for the price. That's what I went with.

 

[toyman]

I would conclude, based on every post to this point, it makes absolutely no sense to install the cam without a whole bunch of other stuff. If it were me, I'd store the cam and over time acquire the other pieces as buying opportunites present themselves. After you have everything needed to do the job ONCE, start the build. That's my $0.02 take on this.

 

[Black Stampede]

I would conclude, based on every post to this point, it makes absolutely no sense to install the cam without a whole bunch of other stuff. If it were me, I'd store the cam and over time acquire the other pieces as buying opportunites present themselves. After you have everything needed to do the job ONCE, start the build. That's my $0.02 take on this.

There is a fair share of truth to this for sure. After all its not like a cam install takes 30 minutes. As was said, look around and score a nice set of GT40Ps. Then scour the classifieds for a cheap intake (tfs, eddy, cobra, etc) and you'll have yourself a stout little combo.

 

[deftsound]

There is a fair share of truth to this for sure. After all its not like a cam install takes 30 minutes. As was said, look around and score a nice set of GT40Ps. Then scour the classifieds for a cheap intake (tfs, eddy, cobra, etc) and you'll have yourself a stout little combo.

Yea you guys are right, well looks like ill be getting a gt40 intake soon, need to look for the gt40 heads...

 

[94-302-vert]

try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market especially if you are going to have them worked...

Although if you are going to go that route look into aftermarket heads as you start getting very close to the same cost especialy if you can score some aftermarket heads used...

 

[final5-0]

There is a fair share of truth to this for sure. After all its not like a cam install takes 30 minutes. As was said, look around and score a nice set of GT40Ps. Then scour the classifieds for a cheap intake (tfs, eddy, cobra, etc) and you'll have yourself a stout little combo.

Yes ... I was thinking just like Jon said

If money is tight ... you could reuse the stock intake

Changing an intake is W A Y less hassle than doing heads/intake
for a second time

Good luck with your combo

Grady