Just cracked my 2nd block wtf is going on?!?!

[Funanin]

Ok I took my old block apart because it was reading no oil pressure at idle and i thought i spun a bearing but when i hit the gas the oil pressure would go up to almost normal. It would also knock at low rpm with the low pressure. I took the whole thing apart and saw that I had split the webbing across the main bolt threads all the way down the block on caps 2, 3, and 4. So I got a used shortblock from an 01 explorer with 68k miles on it, and I Canton racing main cap girdle kit with race pan and windage tray to try to avoid this again.

So I get the motor all built, it starts right up on first try, but it sounded like there was a small knock or tick, I just figured it was the lifters filling up with oil and it went away. Well I drove it a few nights and it was FAST FAST FAST just like it used to be. Then tonight, we were out beatin it and when we came to a stop at idle the pressure dropped to 5 psi and it started knocking again!!! I couldnt believe it! Same thing as before when I hit gas the pressure went up and it didnt knock! So I got it home and now im like wtf should I do because this is the second block that has cracked on me and I only had it in the car not even a week! I was told and thought that the stock block could hold up to 500 hp?! Is this wrong? I would say I have like 375 at flywheel with my mods and I do beat on it pretty hard but I have msd rev limiter set at 6 which is lower than stock 6250. Do I need a 4 bolt main block or aluminum block or some ungodly costing thing to handle me when im taking my stress out on some rice?

 

[mackey]

Did you test the oil pump for pressure? If you are getting 0PSI you should have really checked to make sure it was still pumping correctly. Running any pump dry, (0PSI) is very bad for it.

 

[91 HATCH]

these stock blocks are prone to crack you should buy the one from summit racing or a fms block it is stronger

summit block
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SES-5-60-04-200&autoview=skuit racing

fms block
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS-M-6010-R302&autoview=sku

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

summit block
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SES-5-60-04-200&autoview=skuit

That's a stock block, which summit is selling.

The R302 block isn't a bad choice, but if I were spending that much money, I'd go ahead and pick up a Dart block and call it a day.

I'd hate to think you cracked another block, although a rod or main bearing would seem more likely than the block itself.

 

[poneypower89]

I really see no reason that you would be cracking blocks... at least no reason that involved ur power output.

Remember, RPM and bad tunes are what really cause blocks to crack. RPMS cause the mains caps to walk.. which leads me to say, make sure ur mains are studded/bolted in to spec. A loose connection there will crack a block with some nice rpms.

 

[jammer84_03]

power adder or massive trq? hp alone isnt the real killer of the blocks. if you put up huge trq numbers or are doing some sort of power adder that will take the longevity way down

 

[88mouse]

the explorer was wreaked in the front was it? I have seen car get hit in the front and crack the block.

 

[TC93]

Ar you running solid motor mounts?? You shouldn't be cracking block taht quick. Or you may have just gotten a bad motor out of the explorer. How hard was it hit??

 

[bluevenom867]

Sure it didnt crack the oil pump housing this time...?

Also,the new blocks are crap honosetly.But you still should not have broken it.

Tell us your bottom end set-up,please.

 

[ninety15.0]

I also want to know the bottom end setup. Something tells me theres some bottom end problems that are causing some funky crank play. Who assembles the motor...what was the end play?

 

[Georgie]

when u guys say that the main caps walk..what do u mean buy that...and i recently too cracked my block..its all stock but i think i over reved it...my tachometer/speedometer hasnt worked in two years...can it be that the stock dampner is no good??

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=697372 go to page two for pics

 

[Funanin]

ok i started it this morning cold and it didnt knock at all and oil pressure was up at 40 psi at idle... until it got warm, then the pressure died slowly back down to 5 psi and i think it is the lifters that are making the ticking knocking noise because of the lack of oil pressure. But what would cause the oil pressure to die like that ONLY after the car warms up and the oil gets thinner? Dont say oil, because I was using royal purple full syn 5w30, and I changed it over to 20w50 and it still does it. My bottom end is stock 01 explorer with 68k miles on it, I didnt check the bearings before I put it together tho, I didnt want to retorque everything and I figured it was good because I just bought it. I have the canton race products 1/2 inch thick steel main girdle, windage tray, and 8 qt race oil pan. Another thing I noticed when I changed the oil to 20w50 was that the 5w30 I was draining out which had not even been in for a week was pretty dark which led me to believe the oil wasnt getting thru the filter. Tell me what u guys think. Thanks