just did the Eibach Pro-Kit last night the install went well, a couple of notes to help others, I did install a quaility alluminum adjustable panhard bar with quaility rod ends, got it off of ebay for under $100 (diden't notice any more road noise transmitted into car, had to bottom out the jam nuts and rod ends into rod to center rear end)
-on front struts, when replacing them into position, on top mount there is a notch with an arrow on each bearing cup mount, that arrow should point out to the wheel
-the checker auto parts tool rental (strut compressor w/ saftey pins) work good, use oil on threads and tighten / loosen each side equaly,
-no, I did not have air tools, but I did use a 1/2" electric impact gun that made it much easer, (don't know for sure but large top nut on strut may need speed/torque a impact gun provides)
-when I tightened all front strut mounting hardware, I held the strut on the lower portion towards middle of car an tighened
-on the top I pulled away from car, this hopefully till I get allignment brought the camber to as positive degree as factory allows
-the car tracks as well as before the handling is better w/ less roll and a little stiffer ride, no bouncing but on fast large rolling dips or bad R/R tracks it is riding the bump stops for sure.
95% possitive: looks, looks, looks, and handling
5% negitive: rides a little rougher, bottoms suspension on extreme bumps and because of lower step/sit in height some old farts may complain
my car sits almost 3/4" lower on right rear before and after springs, only notice with tape measure but not with looking at it.
-on front struts, when replacing them into position, on top mount there is a notch with an arrow on each bearing cup mount, that arrow should point out to the wheel
-the checker auto parts tool rental (strut compressor w/ saftey pins) work good, use oil on threads and tighten / loosen each side equaly,
-no, I did not have air tools, but I did use a 1/2" electric impact gun that made it much easer, (don't know for sure but large top nut on strut may need speed/torque a impact gun provides)
-when I tightened all front strut mounting hardware, I held the strut on the lower portion towards middle of car an tighened
-on the top I pulled away from car, this hopefully till I get allignment brought the camber to as positive degree as factory allows
-the car tracks as well as before the handling is better w/ less roll and a little stiffer ride, no bouncing but on fast large rolling dips or bad R/R tracks it is riding the bump stops for sure.
95% possitive: looks, looks, looks, and handling
5% negitive: rides a little rougher, bottoms suspension on extreme bumps and because of lower step/sit in height some old farts may complain
my car sits almost 3/4" lower on right rear before and after springs, only notice with tape measure but not with looking at it.
