Just when i thought The problems Were over...

Adam, remember that the difference between having zero pressure in the coolng system and having 16 PSI (our stock rating) is about 45*F in the boiling point. Ergo, the pressure is really important. If your cap isnt holding pressure, there's an issue.

A sign of a bad cap is to hear boiling coolant in the reservoir after you shut the car off. But you should not have any coolant leaking around the radiator neck. On a cold system, pull the cap off and check the mating surfaces (the gasket on the cap, the cap's edges, etc, and the radiator neck). The necks have gotten out of plumb before. It's real hard to fix - most folks get a new radiator.

Lastly, if you really think the fan wasn't coming on and that was the primary issue, go over the fan connections again and examine the connector terminals themselves. They were a real problem area on these cars (I dont even use an OEM style plug anymore because it's such a POS). Ford should not have squeezed a compact connector onto the pancake motor IMHO. Other cars use a pigtail leaving the motor and the connector is off to the side (like a 4 banger 93-97 Probe fan motor is - I bet you have unplugged one or two of those in your day).

I'd top the coolant off and just let it idle in your garage and watch the gauge and system. If the fan is on and it's spewing from the radiator cap area, check the parts for plumb, replace the cap (to throw a part at it), etc. That might not even be the overall cause but it's a big deal IMHO.

Good luck bud.

i think autozone, napa, advanced auto sell just the fan motors and you just swap that

Yep To Mr Urban's thoughts.

joy of owning a ford...