My King Cobra Clutch just showed up and it says that i need to clean the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc with brake clean becasue these parts are manufactured and shipped with rust inhibitors on them. Do i really need to do this....it also recomends using a NEW Flywheel instead of haveing the stock on re-surfaced. And this kit did not come with a clutch alignment tool so where can i get one asap....?
KC Clutch Is Here....Few Questions.
- Thread starter Joey5.0
- Start date
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
Definately clean everything with some brake-kleen because there is the equivalent of wd-40 on there that will smoke your new clutch. Get the alignment tool at your local autozone/pep boys. Don't worry about the flywheel. If you got it resurfaced then that is good enough. Good luck.
EDIT: Are you also going to change the pilot bearing while you are there? Also, check the rear main seal for any leaks.
EDIT: Are you also going to change the pilot bearing while you are there? Also, check the rear main seal for any leaks.
Good question, i got my kc from a guy on a forum , the box was opened but everything is new. I didn't get any papers that said to clean it so i would like to know about that .
As for the flywheel , i'm just having mine resurfaced like everyone has told me to. I don't see any reason you would have to buy a new one.
I need an alignment tool as well.
As for the flywheel , i'm just having mine resurfaced like everyone has told me to. I don't see any reason you would have to buy a new one.
I need an alignment tool as well.
This is backyard-mechanic stuff that worked perfectly for me in the past...
You can get away without an alignment tool if you're good... What you do is tighten the pressure plate bolts enough to put a little pressure on the clutch disk that keeps it in place, but that you can slide it by pulling/pushing it with your fingers. Then feel around the outside of the pressure plate where you can touch the edges of the disk and adjust it until all sides are even. Then tighten the bolts down to their recommended torque settings. This will get it close enough to slide in the tranny, and can actually get it aligned better than using an alignment tool because the tools allow a little slack/play. If you haven't installed the tranny before, then I don't recommend doing it.
Resurfacing the flywheel is great. If you can't resurface it and it's smooth, you can get away with scuffing it with a dremel and wire attachment.
To clean the parts just spray them down once or twice with brake clean or carb cleaner and wipe them off.
You can get away without an alignment tool if you're good... What you do is tighten the pressure plate bolts enough to put a little pressure on the clutch disk that keeps it in place, but that you can slide it by pulling/pushing it with your fingers. Then feel around the outside of the pressure plate where you can touch the edges of the disk and adjust it until all sides are even. Then tighten the bolts down to their recommended torque settings. This will get it close enough to slide in the tranny, and can actually get it aligned better than using an alignment tool because the tools allow a little slack/play. If you haven't installed the tranny before, then I don't recommend doing it.
Resurfacing the flywheel is great. If you can't resurface it and it's smooth, you can get away with scuffing it with a dremel and wire attachment.
To clean the parts just spray them down once or twice with brake clean or carb cleaner and wipe them off.
rear main seal - yes
pilot bearing is the bearing that the nose/spout on the input shaft goes in. You can put maybe a finger in it.
on the pressure plate, clean the surface that will contact the clutch disk.
Chris
pilot bearing is the bearing that the nose/spout on the input shaft goes in. You can put maybe a finger in it.
on the pressure plate, clean the surface that will contact the clutch disk.
Chris
Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.
1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.
8.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
9.) Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
10.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
11.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
12.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
13.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
14.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required.
15.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
16.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
17.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
18. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
19.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
20.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
21. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some 7/16 bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
22.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
23.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
24.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
25.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
26.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
27.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
28.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
29.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
30.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
31.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive..
1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.
8.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
9.) Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
10.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
11.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
12.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
13.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
14.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required.
15.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
16.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
17.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
18. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
19.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
20.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
21. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some 7/16 bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
22.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
23.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
24.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
25.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
26.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
27.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
28.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
29.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
30.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
31.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive..
Why would the pilot bearing need replacing? it looks fine to me....
And how do i know if the rear main seal is leaking? I have black grease everwhere on my undercarriage, clutch inspection plate, and inside the bell housing.
View attachment 453637
View attachment 453639
View attachment 453641
View attachment 453643
And how do i know if the rear main seal is leaking? I have black grease everwhere on my undercarriage, clutch inspection plate, and inside the bell housing.
View attachment 453637
View attachment 453639
View attachment 453641
View attachment 453643
Black1987Stang
Active Member
smittyb
Member
Joey, I thought you were getting a new T5. Is that just pics of the old one to show the grease? It is probably from the rear main seal. How many miles are on your car?
The pressure plate is this unit http://www.ramclutches.com/Clutch U/Clutch U images/402_1.JPG
The clutch disk is this one http://www.ramclutches.com/Clutch U/Clutch U images/310_1.JPG
I don't see a need to clean the Pressure plate itself, but it can't hurt.
Clean the clutch disk itself and the flywheel if you are using a new one. No need if you had yours resurfaced.
It is a good idea to replace the pilot bearing, but not necessary if it is in good shape. If you do replace it, a puller will probably be required, you cna rent one at Autozone or maybe Schucks.
The pressure plate is this unit http://www.ramclutches.com/Clutch U/Clutch U images/402_1.JPG
The clutch disk is this one http://www.ramclutches.com/Clutch U/Clutch U images/310_1.JPG
I don't see a need to clean the Pressure plate itself, but it can't hurt.
Clean the clutch disk itself and the flywheel if you are using a new one. No need if you had yours resurfaced.
It is a good idea to replace the pilot bearing, but not necessary if it is in good shape. If you do replace it, a puller will probably be required, you cna rent one at Autozone or maybe Schucks.
I just did a clutch job this weekend on my notch
1. I replaced the pilot bearing, because it came iwth the kit. There is a tool for it, but I didn't have one. I packed the hole with grease, and then took a tightly fitting bolt and pounded it in there. What this does is packs the grease and forces the pilot bearing out. Clean the hole and then set the new one up there, and tap it in using a socket of the same size, or a block of wood. Works just fine. Definately get a clutch alignment tool. That is one tool you will want to have. It was 6.95 from www.50resto.com. Mustangtuning.com has them for like 3.95. They are just plastic, but they are specifically for a Mustang.
2. Just have the flywheel turned. My machine shop charged me 20 dollars, and it came out great.
3. Torque specs. I got these right out of the Ford Motorsport catalog.
Flywheel to crank--75-85 ft lbs.
Pressure plate to flywheel--12-24 ft lbs. DO NOT OVER TORQUE these, because they will break off in the flywheel and you will be pissed off.
4. People say you need to check alignment of the bell housing to the clutch. You only need to do this if you lost your dowel pins that are in the bell housing. If you still have yours...use them and you will be just fine.
I have driven the car all weekend now...and everything is smooth and great. I can't wait for the 450-500 milles of break in are finished, because the clutch feels like it will grab really nice. Good luck man....
1. I replaced the pilot bearing, because it came iwth the kit. There is a tool for it, but I didn't have one. I packed the hole with grease, and then took a tightly fitting bolt and pounded it in there. What this does is packs the grease and forces the pilot bearing out. Clean the hole and then set the new one up there, and tap it in using a socket of the same size, or a block of wood. Works just fine. Definately get a clutch alignment tool. That is one tool you will want to have. It was 6.95 from www.50resto.com. Mustangtuning.com has them for like 3.95. They are just plastic, but they are specifically for a Mustang.
2. Just have the flywheel turned. My machine shop charged me 20 dollars, and it came out great.
3. Torque specs. I got these right out of the Ford Motorsport catalog.
Flywheel to crank--75-85 ft lbs.
Pressure plate to flywheel--12-24 ft lbs. DO NOT OVER TORQUE these, because they will break off in the flywheel and you will be pissed off.
4. People say you need to check alignment of the bell housing to the clutch. You only need to do this if you lost your dowel pins that are in the bell housing. If you still have yours...use them and you will be just fine.
I have driven the car all weekend now...and everything is smooth and great. I can't wait for the 450-500 milles of break in are finished, because the clutch feels like it will grab really nice. Good luck man....
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
Joey5.0 said:
TO get the rear main off, drill two tiny holes into it at opposite sides. Then screw in a couple of sheet metal screws. Use a pry bar, careful not to hurt the crank, and pull the RMS out. You will need to clean the contact surface very well. Put a bead of black permatex along the block portion where the RMS makes contact. Let it sit overnight and you're good to go. I suggest the Fel-pro teflon RMS.
I have never replaced a clutch and left the old pilot bearing. You are there, why not change a $5 part? Rent a puller (slide hammer) from Autozone if you are more comfortable than using the old grease trick, and put the new one in using a large socket to hammer it in.
Also, you will want to put a thin coat of grease on the input shaft so the TOB can slide relatively easy. Also grease the pivot ball. Again, replace the TOB, you are they and have a new clutch. A bad TOB could cause terrible engagement and pre-mature wear on your new clutch.
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
Joey5.0 said:
For the most part - drill the RMS, put the sheet metal screws in the RMS, pull on the screws with a pry bar. Once out, wipe the area clean about 10 times. Use a paper towel in brake clean and clean again. Put a bead around where the RMS touched the block.
For the TOB, use some high temp wheel bearing grease.
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
Joey5.0 said:
You should really find out if it is leaking from there. The right way would be to put in a new gasket. You can also check the torque of your oil pan bolts. If all else fails, then use some permatex gasket maker.
