Kirban AFPR install? Tips...?

IMO your wasting your money putting an under hood gauge in. You should spend an extra $75 or so and get the steel braided line and gauge cup and mount it in the cowl so FP can me monitered at all times. Get yourself a nice 2 1/16" autometer FP gauge but do not get the phantom one. 2 of my friends ran the phantom fp gauges and the needle shakes like its nervous or something. Supposidely due to the weather??

As for installing a fpr, i'll assume the cars gonna be apart since your doing hci. 3 allen screws and its comes out, put the new one in along with the gasket and tighten the bolts evenly. To set fp, disconnect the vacuum line and turn it with the allen wrench. Then lock down the lock nut. 39psi is all you should need. If you need more than 39 psi, you either need a tune or a larger injector as most likely the eec will adapt out the changes, but not always.

Everything I needed to install the Kirban on my car was included.

My under the hood fuel pressure gauge installation...

I made my own pressure gauge and holder. I bought the NOS or Autometer adapter that you screw into the place on the fuel line where the schrader valve goes. I ran a piece of SS (stainless steel) braided hose to a brass T fitting that I mounted on the fender well by the MAF. I made a mount bracket out of aluminum angle I got from Home depot and bolted it to the fender well. Then I mounted the brass Tee to it with some machine screws and a plate. I sandwiched the brass Tee between the aluminum angle and a flat piece of aluminum that I trimmed off the extra aluminum angle. Three screws laid out in a triangle pattern go through both pieces of aluminum to clamp the Tee in place. I used a cheap industrial gauge from MSC Direct ( http://www.mscdirect.com/PDF.process?pdf=4588&Keyword=Y ). It works great and was cheaper than anything Summit had.

If you look through the MSC Direct catalog, you can find any type of gauge you want, including liquid filled. You only need a liquid filled gauge if you mount it directly on the engine. The liquid filling dampens out the vibrations.

You can buy the Autometer Stainless Steel braided hose for like $60. Or a local shop that makes hydraulic hose assemblies can make it for you at a cheaper price. Ordinary low pressure hydraulic hose can be used in place of the Stainless Steel braided hose, the Stainless Steel braided hose just looks nice. I got mine for $4 at a place that sells industrial and military surplus parts of all kinds. The Stainless Steel braided hose goes for about $3.60 a foot and the fittings are probably about $5-$8 each. You can make your own and save some $$$, the shops may have a setup or labor charge to fabricate the hose assembly.

just look at the gauge when you turn the set screw

No there is no gasket needed. There is a gasket in the middle of the actual regulator but that's not to be messed with. There are 3 allen screws to install it to the fuel rails. It is a pretty simple install. Take out the old, but the new one in. Remember to set the fuel pressure with vacuum off.

YES, you turn the allen screw in (clockwise) to increase fuel pressure and out (counter clockwise) to reduce fuel pressure.
Adjust fuel pressure with the vacuume line removed and do small (2psi) increments at a time.

Just think about it. As you tighten the allen screw it is decreasing the orifice, which reduces volume thus increasing pressure.

Just finished this....let me know if anything needs to be added/taken away. Hope it helps.
Kirban AFPR Install