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kmember and front suspension question

  • Thread starter Thread starter limp
  • Start date Start date May 10, 2022
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#21
  • May 15, 2022
  • #21
manicmechanic007 said:
Good luck limp
Stay safe
I mentioned the bands because I did the same on my 69 Z28 when I replaced the coil springs and lower arms
If you band those fox body springs tight with enough bands you will have an easier time of it
Click to expand...
You forget, my main problem is no engine/Trans..... Which means NO weight to compress the springs.... If the engine/trans was in it I would have no problem doing the floor jack method...
The 2 X 4 from the k member to the ceiling just wasn't gonna do it for me..
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#22
  • May 15, 2022
  • #22
limp said:
You forget, my main problem is no engine/Trans..... Which means NO weight to compress the springs.... If the engine/trans was in it I would have no problem getting them out via a floor jack..
The 2 X 4 from the k member to the ceiling just wasn't gonna do it for me..
Click to expand...
Look up the youtube video on the ARES 15050 spring compressor and watch it..
 
M

Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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#23
  • May 15, 2022
  • #23
If I'm dropping the K member completely out, a tubular is going back in.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#24
  • May 15, 2022
  • #24
Monkeybutt2000 said:
If I'm dropping the K member completely out, a tubular is going back in.
Click to expand...
Not me... For what I plan to do with this car, its out of control already...
 

manicmechanic007

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#25
  • May 15, 2022
  • #25
limp said:
Look up the youtube video on the ARES 15050 spring compressor and watch it..
Click to expand...
Watched it. Looks like it will work on your tough short spring too. Note they compressed a long rear spring in the video which is way easier
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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#26
  • May 15, 2022
  • #26
limp said:
Prime delivery yesterday of my new Ares spring compressor... ridiculous price, but fk it, It seemed the easiest to use and the best....
I am spending my kids inheritance......
HOPEFULLY, I can get my neighbors to help me push the car into the garage TODAY and get started on it... I will follow up on how this tool works... Video sold me on it..
Click to expand...
Good luck @limp
 
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M

Monkeybutt2000

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#27
  • May 15, 2022
  • #27
limp said:
Not me... For what I plan to do with this car, its out of control already...
Click to expand...
Lol,you put a 9inch in your grocery getter.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#28
  • May 15, 2022
  • #28
Monkeybutt2000 said:
Lol,you put a 9inch in your grocery getter.
Click to expand...
LIke I said, OUT OF CONTROL.....LOL
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#29
  • May 15, 2022
  • #29
manicmechanic007 said:
Watched it. Looks like it will work on your tough short spring too. Note they compressed a long rear spring in the video which is way easier
Click to expand...
Good to know, thanks..... It was the ONLY one that said its designed to be used with an impact gun... All of the other brands said do NOT use one.......
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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May 16, 2022
#30
  • May 16, 2022
  • #30
Switch to coil overs in the front.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Sep 1, 2010
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May 16, 2022
#31
  • May 16, 2022
  • #31
2000xp8 said:
Switch to coil overs in the front.
Click to expand...
He still has to get the coil springs tamed and out of the way first, right? So that’s not very helpful.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#32
  • May 16, 2022
  • #32
2000xp8 said:
Switch to coil overs in the front.
Click to expand...
Already been bantered around on a post on this site... NOT going to happen...
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#33
  • May 21, 2022
  • #33
Ok so the saga continues.....
the fancy dancy compressor I purchased will not work... The discs ( see pic) will not fit in between the coils... Just my luck....
Looks to me like the only kind that will work would be the kind with the "claws" at each end or the kind with the claw at one end and the flat forked plate at the other.......
Any recommendations?
 

Gs1987GT

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#34
  • May 21, 2022
  • #34
I've seen some use several large steel hose clamps to compress the springs. Not the safest probably, but If you used enough of them I would trust it.. using those you can probably compress the spring enough to disconnect the ball joint, then drop the spring out the bottom, perhaps it may need some prying with a pry bar but I'd bet it would come out.

You could also try compressing them with several ratchet straps, then when you get some compression on them, before you disconnect the lower control arm ball joint, add some mechanics wire on them as a safety.

I never had any luck with spring compressors on foxbody mustangs. Many just don't fit. The rear springs are not nearly as hard to change but still require some caution.

Maybe the hose clamps and the 2x4s from engine cradle to ceiling joists would be best? It's harder with no engine in for sure as you know.

Good luck and be safe. If you try something and it seems too sketchy, stop and reevaluate.

Honestly, regardless of how careful you are, doing coil spring work always has a degree of sketchiness to it. You just have to be as safe as you can and really pay attention to things...(and where your hands, face. Arms and legs are located at all times)
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#35
  • May 21, 2022
  • #35
I’ve done it with hose clamps. Not the safest.


Let me ask you this, if you put a Jack under the balljoint, can you compress it upwards at all with the weight of just the chassis?

If you can, you can likely just unbolt the strut and lower down the A-arm. As long as there is enough weight to let you raise or lower the arm then it’s possible.

If there isn’t enough weight and jacking up the balljoint lifts the whole car then do not unbolt that strut. You’ll have to hold the spring compressed
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#36
  • May 21, 2022
  • #36
Mustang5L5 said:
I’ve done it with hose clamps. Not the safest.


Let me ask you this, if you put a Jack under the balljoint, can you compress it upwards at all with the weight of just the chassis?
Click to expand...
I haven't tried that yet, I will give it a try.....
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#37
  • May 21, 2022
  • #37
Gs1987GT said:
It's harder with no engine in for sure as you know.
Click to expand...
Yes, that seem to be the predicament I am in....
 

Gs1987GT

Active Member
Sep 25, 2019
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May 21, 2022
#38
  • May 21, 2022
  • #38
Mustang5L5 said:
I’ve done it with hose clamps. Not the safest.


Let me ask you this, if you put a Jack under the balljoint, can you compress it upwards at all with the weight of just the chassis?

If you can, you can likely just unbolt the strut and lower down the A-arm. As long as there is enough weight to let you raise or lower the arm then it’s possible.

If there isn’t enough weight and jacking up the balljoint lifts the whole car then do not unbolt that strut. You’ll have to hold the spring compressed
Click to expand...
It will immediately lift the entire car if you jack under the ball joint with no engine\trans in the car. There is little to no compression, especially with stock springs
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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May 21, 2022
#39
  • May 21, 2022
  • #39
What about adding weight to the k-member to simulate a motor ? Several 50lb bags of sand/concrete/ whatever…. May be enough to get the springs to compress under the ball joint?
Just trying to think of some safer alternatives to the sketchiness of doing it with no weight.
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
Oct 4, 2020
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May 21, 2022
#40
  • May 21, 2022
  • #40
limp said:
I haven't tried that yet, I will give it a try.....
Click to expand...
Fail.... LOL.....
If I screwed a couple of 2x4 to the ceiling joists, attached two 2X6 to them, running the 2X6 down to the K member and ran bolts through them into the motor mount area of the K member, that might work?
Whats that, about $100 in lumber in Bidenomic prices...
 
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