ok i think ive come to a conclusion on my suspension setup... its going to look something like this: frpp b springs, either kyb or tokico shocks/struts, mm pan hard bar and strut tower brace along with what i already have which is adjustable upper control arms, some sort of aftermarket lowers, and mm c/c plates.... anybody have any experince with kyb gr2 shocks/struts????
kyb gr2's or tokico's???
- Thread starter noslow5_0
- Start date
I have the GR2's in the front and gas-adjust shocks in the rear. I have had GR2's in three cars so far and they are good. Better than a regular replacment but nothing on a shock like bilstiens. Tokico is a good name, MM recomends them as a budget shock but it depends on your budget. The KYB's are less expensive.
well i see that you run the 1/8th mile, and thats whats closest to me so you might be a bit of help.... with the mods in the sig, ive run a 9 flat at 79.8 mph... and that was with a 2.2 60' time on kumho ecsta 712's... I was able to cut a 2.05, but missed third on that run... these mac springs suck arse! the ride quality is horrible!!! i just rode in my buddies almost stock mustang and wow what a difference!!! your gt doesnt lean to the driversside at all does it??? cause i have an lx, and know someone who has one too and both of ours lean to the driverside...
I had Eibach springs on my old car and although it was a totally different car I remember that ride quality was about the same as stock, harsher on hard bumps but as far as regular driving, just as nice. Everyone with H&R springs loves them as well. No my car does not lean. If your's does you can get spring helpers to raise up the one side that is sagging. But that is a bandaid on a bullet wound. Something is wrong because you said ride quality sucks. You said you have some type of aftermarket controll arms so someone has been in there altering things. If I saw your car in person I could find out, but it's hard over the net.
Bad shocks and struts can cause a sagging suspension. New/good shocks/struts tend to extend strongly, a bad strut/shock tends to stay where it is put or worse. Bad shocks/sturts can also sieze up, this happened to my car right after I bought it, it was much lower in the front, the left front esp. Turned out the LF sturt was siezed up. I have been working in a shop for six years and I install suspension parts on a daily. So if one was dead, and the other was good the one side would be higher than others.
Once again hard for me to tell over a wire. Here is what I would do. Try unbolting the shocks from the bottom and see if that helps. Measure the differences or ground clearances of the lower controll arms. If the spring perches are at the same higth, but the top where the spring meets to body is different, you have sagging springs.
Bad shocks and struts can cause a sagging suspension. New/good shocks/struts tend to extend strongly, a bad strut/shock tends to stay where it is put or worse. Bad shocks/sturts can also sieze up, this happened to my car right after I bought it, it was much lower in the front, the left front esp. Turned out the LF sturt was siezed up. I have been working in a shop for six years and I install suspension parts on a daily. So if one was dead, and the other was good the one side would be higher than others.
Once again hard for me to tell over a wire. Here is what I would do. Try unbolting the shocks from the bottom and see if that helps. Measure the differences or ground clearances of the lower controll arms. If the spring perches are at the same higth, but the top where the spring meets to body is different, you have sagging springs.
well see thats the thing... i jacked up the rear end, an unbolted the shocks, and they both touched... but if i have the shocks attached, the drivers side wheel is about a half in lower towards the ground then the right... im about to just take it to a frame shop and see what they say... im wondering if my welded in subframes may have something to do with it??? also, the left front sits lower then the right... im assuming springs at this point. the ride is not terrible, but i feel just about every bump in the road. I guess well see on tuesday when a body shop opens up! any idea on how much it would cost just for them to take a look at it???
It shouldn't cost much for them to do an estimate, some places would do it free. You lost me here, you say when the shocks are attached you said one was longer than the other??? I didn't get what you meant. I would look up the MAC springs, I think they are specific rate, you want progressive rate. Progressive get tighter as they compress, specific are the same firmness at all times.
Hello! Dude a light went off in my head when you said maybe your subframe supports are doing it.How were they put in welded or bolted.Were they jacked up one side at a time and put in?Was jack stands or lift used?It is possible you frame was tweeked when they were installed and that is the problem.Remember shocks absorb shock or bumps in road and keep tires planted to the ground and springs set body height. Later Sub
the subframes are welded in... no clue on how they were installed since they came with the car?? what i meant by having the shocks attached was that when i jack up rear end of the car and put it on jackstands off of the subframes the whole rear end sits 1/2" lower on the drivers side. kinda like the its pointing down towards the ground if you know what i mean??? i guess i could put it this way also, when jacked up in the rear and set on jackstands the driverside rear sits lower or more towards the ground then what the passenger side does... its kinda hard to explain...
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