Lets talk ACs...

[1fastsn95]

ok I know its still winter but Im already dreading the summer here in Tenn. My AC is shot. What other Ford ACs will work on a foxbody? I found a 90 (I think) Mark 7 LSC that looked fairly close but Im not sure. I hit the valve on the line and Refrig. came out. Im guessing its probably still good? But would it work?

 

[backfocus]

What is wrong with your AC now? Has it been to a shop or did you diagnose the problem? Fill us in with more of the problem and maybe we can help at the least save you time and money in the long run. Honestly, I would stay away from a used compressor, they end up being more problems than it is worth in most cases.

 

[1fastsn95]

well to be totally honest, I dont know I just know it doesnt work and it doesnt have any freon in it. Im sure the seals are bad, but with the car being 21 years old, Im just guessing its shot. I just know its HOT and HUMID here in Tennessee and I want my air working. Also I figure it would be cheaper to fix it now while the demand is low instead of in the summer when everyone else is fixing theres.

 

[backfocus]

So you are or are not doing the work yourself? What have you done to it that you know there is know that it is empty? Did you use gauges or just push on the valve? Will the compressor come on if 12v is applied to the compressor connector? Has it been converted to 134a? How do the hoses look?

There are several people that can help you through the process, if you want and feel comfortable fixing it yourself. If not just take it to a reputable shop. Honestly it won't be any cheaper to fix it now as opposed to the summer, just easier to get it into a good garage now.

Look at ackits.com for your parts if you are looking at fixing it yourself.

 

[jrichker]

If the compressor won’t run with the A/C switch in the A/C on position, then the system is likely to
be low on refrigerant. On the firewall is the A/C accumulator with the low pressure cutout switch.
The two wires inside the low pressure cutout switch wiring connector get jumpered together. That
bypasses the switch and turns on the compressor when the refrigerant level is low. Don't run the
system very long, because low refrigerant also means low oil. The refrigerant causes the oil to
circulate though the system and lubricate the compressor.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

 

[2000xp8]

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products.aspx?brand=HOSE&vehicle=Mustang

If you have the money, i'd buy this kit and be done with it.

The r12 system in the fox can run 134, i just don't think it does it all that well.

 

[tbovee]

I converted mine to 134 and it works fine.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Correct. It can run on the 134, but won't be nearly as cold as it was with r12

to properly convert, you are supposed to replace the orifice tube and condensor to 134a specific models, but not everyone does it.

At least replace all the o-rings with the r-134s version to fix any leaks. Then pull a vacuum and introduce oil and 134 and it should be decently cool.