Lifespan of 5.0L engine?

[exc911ence]

I'm looking at an 89 5.0 LX with 270,000 kms (approx. 162,000 miles) on the original engine and I'm wondering how much life this car has left in it. It was owned by an older couple so I doubt it's been beaten on 'that much' but it is a 5-speed car which tends to get the driver somewhat enthusiastic with the power. So, should I buy this car or is the motor about to expire?

 

[5spd GT]

I'm looking at an 89 5.0 LX with 270,000 kms (approx. 162,000 miles) on the original engine and I'm wondering how much life this car has left in it. It was owned by an older couple so I doubt it's been beaten on 'that much' but it is a 5-speed car which tends to get the driver somewhat enthusiastic with the power. So, should I buy this car or is the motor about to expire?

Well I have (or will tomorrow) 145,000 on my car currently at 144,998 miles on my car with heads, cam, intake and I drive it everyday back and forth to school and work...

If it it runs strong (depending on if you are familiar with what a 5.0 should run like) then it will probably be fine...if their is anyway you could do a compression check that would help you out...

Just remember the "it runs strong theory" isn't a very good tester because if one gets out of a 91 geo metro and steps out and gets in a worn and ragged "motored" 5.0 the 5.0 will still feel "strong"...but just do you normal test drive and see if you can do a compression check somehow but the owner won't like you revving on a car you don't own...yet...

 

[Danny-Boi]

I jus rolled past 200000(i think)..odometer says 1000 miles.

 

[Allforspeed]

first car!

my first car was a 5 spd lx and i could not break that damn thing and it had about 170K, for some reason that stock motor was still great and the tranny was decent too, drove it all over for such long trips and it never broke on me and i was a (less) stupid kid who had no sympathy for the old beast, 5.0s are damn near invinvable if kept pretty stock

 

[PNY PWR]

160,00 on mine. Who knows how long a 5.0 would last, a long time if well maintained that's for sure. Simply an awsome engine IMO.

 

[Carney Woods]

It all depends on how the car was maintained. If there was regular tune ups and OIL changes you should be fine. I have about 170 000 kms on my car it runs great but I take care of it. See if the owner has reciepts or maitenance records for it. If you do a compression test it will give you the best idea of the state of the motor.

 

[speedytang]

145k miles with a 10psi Supercharger and 485 whp for 60k miles on a 100% stock short block and ported stock heads and Cobra intake. Before the Supercharger I ran a 150hp nitrous wet kit for 2 years. The motors run for a long time if they are 87-92 cars with forged pistons.

 

[TrickStang37]

i have not seen the hyper pistoned 93-95 cars run any less miles than the 87-92 motors. and they run cleaner.

usually the rings will go before the pistons ever do on either one anyways.

 

[Michael Yount]

If you've any doubts have a mechanic run a compression check on the cylinders to see how it's holding up.

Mileage alone won't tell you anything. Look at the rest of the car's condition. If it's beat up, chances are the engine hasn't seen the best care either.

 

[crazypete]

The telltale signs are of course, the test drive AND

1. Ice cold start idle quality. If this is good, all the sensors and actuators work properly.

2. Color of the oil. This tells you if the dude took care of it. I've seen a 170K honda with fresh gold oil running strong and a buick with 72K with pitch black oil running on 5 cylinders (zero or bare min maintenence).

3. Condition of the clutch. Under hard acceleration, does it slip/chatter? If so, it was beat on. If not, it was babied. A hard driven 5.0 will eat clutch discs.

4. 2-3 shift quality. Also lets you know if gear banging was done or if it was driven calmly.

Honestly, this car is way overpowered for its size so the motor doesnt have to work very hard to push it around. I've had a 128K mile and a 140 K mile stang. Both run strong with no problems. Both also had crapped transmissions since the previous owners whaled on them. It's the electronics and transmission/suspension components that will go first so check those. Also inspect for rust. That is the #1 killer. If no rust, you can preserve it. If its already rusted...well....there is little you can do. My 87 had a rust spot and it just spread and spread. The 91 doesnt have any more than some surface rust and I painted/rubberized and siliconed the bottom and I drive it around in the snow and salt. 1 year later, last night actually, I go down underneath and it looks exactly as I painted it: no new rust.

Good luck

 

[BlackGT89]

As far as longevity of the 5.0 engine, I'm coming up on 180,000 miles on my mostly stock 5.0 and it is still running strong. I still have the original transmission and dfferential also (changed to "used" 3:55 gears at about 75K). From what I hear, 200,000+ miles is not uncommon for these engines if it's been well maintained and not beat on too bad. Of course, as they always say, your mileage may vary. If in doubt, have a qualified mechanic go over it.

 

[89lxsport50]

I am the original owner of a 181,000 mile, stock, daily driver. The original clutch doesn't slip, and the car runs good. It is being painted as I type. Can't wait to get it back.

 

[mooktank]

my 5.0 in my truck just crapped out on me a 160,000 i got the truck with 142,000. I think its from getting water in the cylinders. And the oil pump died on me. 302s under normal conditions can make it past 200,000 no prob.

 

[PonyBoy90]

Funny with foxbody 5.0's is, one should be more concerned with the shape of the body rather than the engine. I know one guy went 400,000km on his stock engine and it was still going!

I don't see too many mint bodies these days on these year of car. Most are in very good condition to chewed up.

You can always find a stock 302 5.0 EFI engine for as little as $600 as most guys are beginning to pulls theirs out and replacing them with 351's.

I'd rather spend $1000 for a remanned engine than $2000 for body and paint work on a 5.0 with a good engine but "questionable" body.

Just my opinion but this is what I'm finding out with these cars since I bought one 4 years ago.

 

[50 4 Fun]

I would say the price has alot to do with it. The engine can run alot longer that that, but other stuff on the car could be an issue. Ball joints, trans, bearings, ect I would have it checked out first unless it was like $500 your call

 

[PonyBoy90]

Just keep in mind that it is an 1989 5.0. We're talking about a 16 year old (Classic after 15!) car here made by Ford during a period where they (Ford) were stingy, cutting manufacturing costs, cutting corners, etc etc etc.....

Don't expect the car to run like a 2004 Honda. You're going to have issues sooner or later. Unless you are a seasoned mechanic and have ways of getting parts cheap, I wouldn't recommend these car's to a young student going to University/college spending $10,000 on tuition fees while working at McDonalds making $150 a week. I've seen too many young guys on these boards selling off their car's (Some of em are sweet too!) because they can't afford both.

I figure the more stock the car, the better off you are. Stuff like ball joints going out happen due to people throwing on 16-17 inch rims onto ball joints made for 15's which was the stock dimension. Although they may go out eventually, they will go out sooner with a bigger rim.

 

[crazypete]

It's always the electronics that go first and lemme tell ya, once they start going it gets expensive. This is why I carbed mine. I think I ended up spending the same amount that it would have cost to redo the computer system.

Luckily...

You have such a ridiculous choice of parts to choose from, dont bother replacing anything with a stock part. Balljoints go....get a tubular A-arm with a balljoint on it for instance. Starter goes, get a high torque mini starter. Most times, you'll find the reinforced high quality race part to be only $10-15 bucks more than the factory part.

Ebay is an aftermarket parts mecca of cheap parts.

Junkyards are great for quick fix items and factory harnesses, ECU's and such

 

[gcomfx.com]

169,000 miles and spraying a dry kit for 2.5 years. Still runs good.

 

[ninety15.0]

hum...i would have to be the only guy on this forum to say the opposite. My car has about 140,000 on it right now and it still runs good. However, im building a new motor this winter for it. The question you need to ask yourself is how are you going to use the car. If you buy a mostly stock 5.0 with a ton of miles on it and then you start in with a ton of mods....expect big problems. I plan on doing HCI with the possibility of a blower or a 150 shot. I dont wanna be dealing with a blown motor so im going to start over right now after owning the car for about 4 years. if you are just gonna use it to drive to a from work or school and dont plan on beating on it much at all then i would say go for it...but if you have any other intentions i would be extremely careful in selecting a real high milage 5.0. good luck

 

[dastang2]

i had a 91 5.0 tbird and the odometer stopped at around 200,000 miles and i drove it at least 20,000 more. it ran perfect and cranked perfect, the aod went out and i pulled the motor to find about an inch and a half of built up sludge from not being taken care of by the previous owners. the piston walls still had the crosshatches on them and the bearings still had plenty of silver color remaining. the crank mic'd out to be std.still and i will be using it soon in my other motor.