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Little wiring help please

  • Thread starter Thread starter SMOKEDYA
  • Start date Start date Oct 29, 2009
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HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Oct 30, 2009
#21
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #21
DDonaca has you covered. What he said about directly wiring the load-side of the Tyco to the battery is what I was talking about (there is no jumping involved. You remove the load-side wiring from the controller altogether).



When you rewire it up, just be very certain that the wire you sourced from the wiper circuit only goes to 86. Put a 3 amp fuse on this wire.
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
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Oct 31, 2009
#22
  • Oct 31, 2009
  • #22
so i think i understand? so from my 70 amp relay unplug #'s 30&87. #30 from the relay with 8 ga wire it will go to starter relay w/inline fuse? ok what amp fuse?70amp?now from #87 off the 70amp relay that will go to the fans +.and #86 will STILL go to wiper motor just with a 3amp fuse and this will stay plugged into the hayden controller. correct or no?And if i leave the + to the hayden khhoked up it will still function on the thero prob in the radiator?what ami going to be able to do to fix the yellow wire going into the hayden controler? or will it not even go into the controller now?peace





john
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
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Oct 31, 2009
#23
  • Oct 31, 2009
  • #23
ddonaca351 said:
Hey John,

*made in china*... well there's your problem. LOL

I wouldn't run any of the power wires through the 30a fuse holder. The holder was probably designed with a 30a max load in mind... not a 70a.

Run the load wires directly to your tyco relay and you should be fine (pins 30 and 87). They are the switched power for the fans and they carry all the current.

Also 10ga is kinda on the line for 70a, so keep an eye on it... make sure you're using a good multistrand wire (lotts of little tiny strands can cary more current safely than the same gauge wire, with only a few big strands... the trons actually move over the surface of the wires strands, not "through" them as is commonly thought)

The little signal leads that energize the coil shouldn't be carrying any kind of current to speak of, so they should be fine (pins 85 and 86)

D


EDIT: Also another way to ease the load would be to (and I know you wont like this... lol) wire in two controllers and relays so that each fan has its own circuit. Then set the temp sensors to come on about 5 degress apart so one fan is already up to speed when the other one kicks on. (they only draw max current for a few seconds, as they are spinning up to speed. Once they're up and running, they probably only draw 10-15a for a constand load)
Click to expand...

if it isnt china it's mexico! dam isnt anything made in the USA? thanks for the help double D! peace







john
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Oct 31, 2009
#24
  • Oct 31, 2009
  • #24
so i think i understand? so from my 70 amp relay unplug #'s 30&87. #30 from the relay with 8 ga wire it will go to starter relay w/inline fuse? ok what amp fuse?
Click to expand...

Yes. I'd try to use a slow-burn fuse (Maxi, etc). Something along the lines of a 40 amp fuse (fuse for the wire gauge you run. You don't want a fuse larger than the rating of the wire or the wire can catch on fire).

Or use fusible link.


70amp?now from #87 off the 70amp relay that will go to the fans +.
Click to expand...

Yep.

and #86 will STILL go to wiper motor just with a 3amp fuse and this will stay plugged into the hayden controller. correct or no?
Click to expand...

Yes.





And if i leave the + to the hayden khhoked up it will still function on the thero prob in the radiator?what ami going to be able to do to fix the yellow wire going into the hayden controler? or will it not even go into the controller now?peace
Click to expand...

Yes, leave the controller powered so the trigger functions and excites the relay. If the yellow wire is what tells the controller to turn on, you still need it. If it's totally fried, the controller won't be able to turn on.
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
3,637
8
79
Tucson AZ
Oct 31, 2009
#25
  • Oct 31, 2009
  • #25
HISSIN50 said:
Yes. I'd try to use a slow-burn fuse (Maxi, etc). Something along the lines of a 40 amp fuse (fuse for the wire gauge you run. You don't want a fuse larger than the rating of the wire or the wire can catch on fire).

Or use fusible link.




Yep.



Yes.







Yes, leave the controller powered so the trigger functions and excites the relay. If the yellow wire is what tells the controller to turn on, you still need it. If it's totally fried, the controller won't be able to turn on.
Click to expand...

sweet! but look at my pics. i think it's the last the the yellow wire is 1/2 gone going into the hayden controller. i'll try it to see if it will be ok still? if not guess i'll get another controller peace





john
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
3,637
8
79
Tucson AZ
Nov 1, 2009
#26
  • Nov 1, 2009
  • #26
well double d and hissn, i went out and hooked it up the way you guys said to. unfortunitly the last time it smoked i'm assuming it fried the controller or the ****ing stupid yeoolw wire bunt to much away cause the fans dont work so i'll have the GF get me her discount tomorrow and get another controller. thanks you two once again for all the help and hopefully when i install the new controller everything is good! peace









PS hissn thanks for putting up with all my questions and brain farting!











john
 
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