Looking at dyno results in the dyno thread

martyd · Nov 18, 2008

I noticed a few 5.0's making 190whp to 230whp with a ok list of bolt on type mods, even a couple rebuilt, slightly larger bore engines only making 230 to 250whp. But in the same sense I noticed alot of these numbers not seeming right with the track times and trap speeds they are listing. I mean I'm new to the fox body and ford game but are these numbers not a bit low? I am getting my 89 LX SSP in a couple days and plan on running it on a dyno for baseline numbers if I can find a dyno place around here(I live in TN but am visiting my mother in Idaho). But permited I find a dyno close to me what should I expect, elevation is fairly high out here(4000 to 5000 feet) and I dont want to sound pessamistic but am I going to have my feeling hurt?

I had a 94 M6 Formula then a C5 M6 and both dyno'd over what they should have stock.(265whp for the LT1 and 325whp for the LS1). I am by nomeans hating or anything because I love the idea of having/modding my SSP so dont take it that way but how hard is it going to be to make it a solid 13 second car w/o a power adder and a 12 second car with spray?

5.0Torx · Nov 18, 2008

your 5.0 is 13% smaller than your previous SBCs. Theoretically, it would have to rev higher to attain the same power because of that. However, the stock top end doesnt really support that. Additionally, Ford is notorious for choking down the exhaust port more than chevy, yet the stock cam is not dual-pattern to accomdate that.

Depending on your style and your expendable income, there are many ways to get more power. You could hog the crap out of the stock heads and intake and put a different, dual pattern cam in there. But explorer GT40s would probably outflow them before porting. Unfortunately, the same argument pretty much applies to the GT40s. Theres no sense in spending lots of time, money, and energy on $400, iron, 10 year old heads. Still, GT40s are a great budget head, and when combined with other good C/I/E, can put out 260+. Some guys are even over 300 rwhp with GT40p's.

The mack daddy is spending alot of coin on supa shweet aluminum heads and all the supporting hardware. most guys are over 300 rwhp with these. More would be very, very easy to get but alot of guys dont want to have to rev their 302s out to 7k or more to get it and lose all that low end. I have seen a build of a 331 stroker that put out somethign like 450 naturally aspirated hp at 7k rpm. redline was 7600.

Thats the way it is with a small-ish displacement, very-oversquare V8. Rev the piss out of it or get some boost to bring those peaks down to something a bit more real-world.

You also have decent aerodynamics (Cd of .36 for aero LXs) and low weight.

Enjoy your 8.8!!!!

GTOreturns · Nov 18, 2008

The stock motors vary in power to the wheels. Ive seen 180rwhp and Ive seen well over 200rwhp. It breaks down to the law of averages. For every 1000 5.0 motors Ford built on the essembly line, theres bound to be a few perfectly balanced motors. (Which will make more hp)

On average a 5.0 with all the bolt ons and free mods will run in the 13's and low 14's. (Depending on traction and driver)
The intake is the first major bottle neck when it comes to taking in air. A good intake & bolt on's should net most 5.0's into the 13's.

The 2nd bottle neck is the heads. Depending on what you wanna spend will determine how much power you can make. Redo the stock heads, or go for some AFR's.
Personally? I love the stock cam! It's an all around great performer that can net you great ET's and is still PRETTY good on gas. And it sounds cool!

I used to live in Colorado, so I can attest to the power lose from altitude. HEY! At least you guys can run lower octane! I forget the exact calculation but its like for every 2000ft above sea level you can drop a point in octane. That's why Colorado had 85 octane at the pumps.
When it comes to making HP in altitude Turbo's are a mans best friend! But that for serious HP.
I have worked E-7's (stock heads) and a bored out stock intake and make about 300fwhp. I think you would be happy with a good intake (Edelbrock or GT-40) and a really good set of heads. This should put 300hp to the wheels.

Let us know what you plan to do.

NIKwoaC · Nov 18, 2008

I can't remember what magazine it was, but either 5.0 or MM&FF put a Fox into the 12s without even TOUCHING the motor.

You just have to know the right things to do, and you can't overlook anything.

A lot of those builds where the numbers seem low are always missing something. I've seen builds with all sorts of goodies but still have the stock, 55mm MAF meter, and the owner wonders why his numbers are low. You just have to use the right combination of parts and good numbers are very achievable.

25thmustang · Nov 18, 2008

You don't need power adders to run 12s and 13s...

Mid 200 rwhp to the tires will go 12s with traction.

bentley429 · Nov 18, 2008

Didnt read anything else besides the first post but your comparing a LT1 to a 302? Even a LS1??? Anyways you'll have no troubles running 12's with a decent h/c/i setup. Going to be harder then the chevy's though.

GTOreturns · Nov 18, 2008

25thmustang said:
You don't need power adders to run 12s and 13s...

Mid 200 rwhp to the tires will go 12s with traction.

Im not too sure about that at 4000+ft above sea level.

martyd · Nov 18, 2008

I'm not trying to compare power to power per say of my GM products, more so comparing stock rated power vs what is actually being put down. And as far as the elevation, I will only be here til December 30th then I am going back to TN with the car in hand. It seems the intake is a main focus point, how would a stock ported intake do? As far as heads I am going to have to wait just a little bit on them because I want to get the car looking it's best.

So I need right now to focus on intake, maf, headers, exhaust, gears, and playing with timing am I correct. It's just so overwelming trying to figure out what to look into on my own because with the LS1 it was easy as hell to make more power(made 30whp with a tune, stock manifolds, and a exhaust). I just want to do it the right way the first time. My end goal seemed to change a bit lastnight when I got to looking at KB superchargers.

bentley429 · Nov 18, 2008

Gm generally underrates their stuff. You arent going to gain anywhere near the power of a LS1 doing the same mods. Put $2500 into or so for h/c/i package and you'll make about 300 rwhp give or take. Then you'll need to throw more $$ at it for supporting suspension parts. I hate this hobby.

1991notchbackLX · Nov 18, 2008

if you're on a budget and only looking to break into the 13s and have a respectable street combo with good power, you should look into two guys named Tmoss and Thumper... they work magic on stock parts

thumperoforangepark.com

and

tmossporting.0catch.com/

GTOreturns · Nov 18, 2008

martyd said:
I'm not trying to compare power to power per say of my GM products, more so comparing stock rated power vs what is actually being put down. And as far as the elevation, I will only be here til December 30th then I am going back to TN with the car in hand. It seems the intake is a main focus point, how would a stock ported intake do? As far as heads I am going to have to wait just a little bit on them because I want to get the car looking it's best.

So I need right now to focus on intake, maf, headers, exhaust, gears, and playing with timing am I correct. It's just so overwelming trying to figure out what to look into on my own because with the LS1 it was easy as hell to make more power(made 30whp with a tune, stock manifolds, and a exhaust). I just want to do it the right way the first time. My end goal seemed to change a bit lastnight when I got to looking at KB superchargers.

Rule # 8. Don't change the stock headers till you get above 260-270hp. They are the best headers till you reach that hp. (Keeps low end torque) But get a new muffler and tail pipe combo for a good sound(Cat back system)
Seems your on a budget so go for a 65mm throttle body, 75mm MAF, and the GT-40 is the best intake for stock applications. But they don't make em anymore so Ebay is your best bet for one. Or you can just get an Edelbrock and you WILL be happy with the gain it gives.
3.55 gears for a 5spd, and 373's for an auto. As far as timing unless you plan on racing it I wouldn't bother. But if you do only raise it in 2 degree increments. I had mine at 14 for racing, 12 for everyday use. Stock is 10.

bentley429 said:
Gm generally underrates their stuff. You arent going to gain anywhere near the power of a LS1 doing the same mods. Put $2500 into or so for h/c/i package and you'll make about 300 rwhp give or take. Then you'll need to throw more $$ at it for supporting suspension parts. I hate this hobby.

A good H/C/I will net you closer to 350.

bentley429 · Nov 18, 2008

GTOreturns said:
Rule # 8. Don't change the stock headers till you get above 260-270hp. They are the best headers till you reach that hp. (Keeps low end torque) But get a new muffler and tail pipe combo for a good sound(Cat back system)
Seems your on a budget so go for a 65mm throttle body, 75mm MAF, and the GT-40 is the best intake for stock applications. But they don't make em anymore so Ebay is your best bet for one. Or you can just get an Edelbrock and you WILL be happy with the gain it gives.
3.55 gears for a 5spd, and 373's for an auto. As far as timing unless you plan on racing it I wouldn't bother. But if you do only raise it in 2 degree increments. I had mine at 14 for racing, 12 for everyday use. Stock is 10.

A good H/C/I will net you closer to 350.

Yea? Well your average h/c/i like everyone does is around 290-310 or so....

5.0Torx · Nov 18, 2008

bentley429 said:
Didnt read anything else besides the first post but your comparing a LT1 to a 302? Even a LS1??? Anyways you'll have no troubles running 12's with a decent h/c/i setup. Going to be harder then the chevy's though.

was that to me? if so then, uh, yeah i was. Do you disagree with anything i said?

GTOreturns · Nov 18, 2008

bentley429 said:
Yea? Well your average h/c/i like everyone does is around 290-310 or so....

Most H/C/I with a custom cam that I have seen are a lot higher then that. Like I said AFR 165's with a good intake will net 300 to the wheels.

bentley429 · Nov 18, 2008

5.0Torx said:
was that to me? if so then, uh, yeah i was. Do you disagree with anything i said?

Said I didn't read anything but the first post because I was in a hurry so I was only talking about the orignal poster. Nope I don't disagree with anything you said, just read it.

bentley429 · Nov 18, 2008

GTOreturns said:
Most H/C/I with a custom cam that I have seen are a lot higher then that. Like I said AFR 165's with a good intake will net 300 to the wheels.

I always mean rwhp if thats what your questioning.

66sprint6 · Nov 18, 2008

my 90 coupe ran 8.72 in the 1/8 mile with nothing more than boltons, bumped timing, 3.55 gear and some mickey thompson drag radials...with 160k on the clock and the #5 cylinder with ring problems. Solid 13 second 1/4 mile car isnt hard to do with very little modification in these things.

What part of tennessee you from?

Matt

martyd · Nov 18, 2008

Northeast, tri-cities

martyd · Nov 18, 2008

And I'm not so much on a limited budget as I am not a person that gets in a hurry. I like doing things in steps and seeing things come together. I love cars and am in no hurry to rush through doing stuff to them.

92GreenGT · Nov 18, 2008

Tri Cities huh? Guess I'll be seeing you around Bristol Dragway when they open back up.

Looking at dyno results in the dyno thread

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