Looking at dyno results in the dyno thread

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Rule # 8. Don't change the stock headers till you get above 260-270hp. They are the best headers till you reach that hp. (Keeps low end torque) But get a new muffler and tail pipe combo for a good sound(Cat back system)
Seems y
our on a budget so go for a 65mm throttle body, 75mm MAF, and the GT-40 is the best intake for stock applications. But they don't make em anymore so Ebay is your best bet for one. Or you can just get an Edelbrock and you WILL be happy with the gain it gives.
3.55 gears for a 5spd, and 373's for an auto. As far as timing unless you plan on racing it I wouldn't bother. But if you do only raise it in 2 degree increments. I had mine at 14 for racing, 12 for everyday use. Stock is 10.


A good H/C/I will net you closer to 350.

I disagree on the header statement. While the stock tubes are OK, you can always benefit from a good set of shorties. Even long tubes, if you feel so inclined, though you won't see their full potential on a stock motor.
 
I went to FMS shorties and wished I hadn't.

That's your opinion, which is fine, but show me dyno numbers and I'll believe it. :shrug:

I definitely noticed a change for the better when I installed my shorties, and that was when I was still only rocking a 70mm TB and nothing else. Again, that's my opinion, but every dyno chart I've seen after a header/exhaust swap showed improvement.
 
Tri Cities huh? Guess I'll be seeing you around Bristol Dragway when they open back up.

Yea, you live in Big Stone? I used to do alot of work up there when I worked for Direct TV. I dont go to Bristol as much as I used to because the ricers kill the track and youre lucky to get 2 runs in all night with the crowd. I go to Rgersville 1/8 track more than Bristol. Bristol is great if you catch it at the right time.
 
Yea, you live in Big Stone? I used to do alot of work up there when I worked for Direct TV. I dont go to Bristol as much as I used to but the ricers kill the track and youre lucky to get 2 runs in all night with the crowd. I go to Rgersville 1/8 track more than Bristol. Bristol is great if you catch it at the right time.

Yep, BSG is where I live. I personally enjoy Bristol MUCH more than Rogersville although I've raced at both, Rogersville is supposedly getting a overhaul at the end of this season. Hopefully it won't feel so small, but you can get a good amount of runs in at Bristol since they are making improvements on how they run the lanes and things.:nice:
 
Thats cool to hear. I have a couple buddies that compete at Rogersville so I guess that is why I hang around there. The last time I was at Bristol to run was when I was helping tune my buddies 3rd gen eclipse with a fully buil and stroked evo swap in it(GT35R turbo). That had to be atleast a year and a half ago. I love the track, just hate the immaturity of the kids that go down there. But I will be there in the spring to test the SSP out, this winter I plan to atleast get it ready for paint and do minor stuff like breathing mods and a set of gears.
 
If your not on a budget ditch the CAI and stay away from them! Get a power pipe with an 80mm MAF and a cone filter for the end. It actually add's HP unlike CAI's.

Do you have a link to it? I think I should have said better, I would not buy a off the shelf CAI, more than likely make one with 2.25 inch stainless and it would more than likely be more of a ram air than anything. I will not pay the retarded prices they have out there for a pipe and a cone filter becaue I have a $4000 tig welder I can use at anytime plus a nice mig so I do a majority of everything custom if I can.
 
Do you have a link to it? I think I should have said better, I would not buy a off the shelf CAI, more than likely make one with 2.25 inch stainless and it would more than likely be more of a ram air than anything. I will not pay the retarded prices they have out there for a pipe and a cone filter becaue I have a $4000 tig welder I can use at anytime plus a nice mig so I do a majority of everything custom if I can.

I bought mine off a friend. But if you go to Anderson Power pipes Im sure there are some lit to look at for power increases.
 
I went to FMS shorties and wished I hadn't.

I know you remember what headers did for my car and that was a switch from aftermarket shorties to aftermarket long tubes.

I only make 258 to the tires, I really doubt going back to stock headers would keep me where I'm at, or even make more power as it seems your stating.

Now If you have proof of this somewhere, post it up, it's usually a hot topic.
 
I know you remember what headers did for my car and that was a switch from aftermarket shorties to aftermarket long tubes.

I only make 258 to the tires, I really doubt going back to stock headers would keep me where I'm at, or even make more power as it seems your stating.

Now If you have proof of this somewhere, post it up, it's usually a hot topic.

I'm referring to low end torque.
 
I dunno GTO i have to disagree as well. I went to Mac full lengths/pro chamber/cat back from stock and picked up a solid .2 and i believe 3mph in the 1/4 over stock headers/offroad H/flowmasters, the biggest difference being the headers. People are always quick to point out how crappy the exhaust side of the heads flow, so i can't see how leaving the crappy crimped headers on is going to do anything but choke the engine, even low end torque. Every 'stang i've ever had, the first thing i did was add either shorties or full lengths and the gains are significant.
 
I dunno GTO i have to disagree as well. I went to Mac full lengths/pro chamber/cat back from stock and picked up a solid .2 and i believe 3mph in the 1/4 over stock headers/offroad H/flowmasters, the biggest difference being the headers. People are always quick to point out how crappy the exhaust side of the heads flow, so i can't see how leaving the crappy crimped headers on is going to do anything but choke the engine, even low end torque. Every 'stang i've ever had, the first thing i did was add either shorties or full lengths and the gains are significant.

They are small and crimped TO GET the low end torque they are famous for. I changed the stock headers, off road H w/ bullets with and without tail pipes. I mite have gained a little up top but lost a noticeable amount of low end.
 
They are small and crimped TO GET the low end torque they are famous for. I changed the stock headers, off road H w/ bullets with and without tail pipes. I mite have gained a little up top but lost a noticeable amount of low end.

They are small and crimped to make production cheaper, maintenance easier, and parts interchangeability possible (the same part was used on Lincoln Town Cars, IIRC), NOT for any performance benefit.

Again, show me a dyno chart that shows significant low end torque losses, and I'll believe you.
 
I know you remember what headers did for my car and that was a switch from aftermarket shorties to aftermarket long tubes.

I only make 258 to the tires, I really doubt going back to stock headers would keep me where I'm at, or even make more power as it seems your stating.

Now If you have proof of this somewhere, post it up, it's usually a hot topic.

What suspension are you running to attain the times in your sig because with the mods you have and the times you post look not right. I'm not trying to call you out or anything like that but would like to know because I'd like to so something similar to you.
 
+1 on the headers-do-help discussion. I went from stock headers/2.5" off road X/dynomax superturbos to BBK unequals/catted 2.5" X/SLP LM1 and the difference is very noticable.

i think the stock headers are crimped so that you can take a socket with an extension to them, whereas aftermarket headers will require a standard wrench on a few of the bolts.
 
Well not to brag but I've been known to be able to drive too, 12.50's in a bolt on C5 and 13.80's in a bolt on M6 LT1. :D

Suspension is stock, Saleen racecraft springs, boxed LCAs, no quad shocks, no sway bar. Original 150K mile struts, shocks, etc... Car does not weight transfer and does not make great power. The 60's are so so, but the car pulls hard through the RPMs. The car is FAR from a freak as it went 15.3 @ 93 mph stock, then ran low 14s with a bunch of bolt ons. Largest drop in times was 13.8 @ 98 with shorties and a catted H, to long tubes and a prochamber and 13.0 @ 103.

We also have a 288 rwhp 3000-3100 lb fox that has been 12.14 @ 111, and an all motor 393 stroker thats been 9.96 @ 135. We spend a good amount of time attaining our timeslips.

:D.

Oh and heres a junky track pass with a slipping clutch and a bad traction lock (I backed up before staging as its an old Mustang myth that it will help "lock" the differential in). Note the lack of weight transfer!

This pass was a 1.73 60', 12.66 @ 107. Car went a few 12.5s (12.53, 12.57, 12.59) that day, and the clutch slipped every shift, on every run! :rolleyes:

YouTube - Brian Fords @ Etown 12.66