See my car for a prime example of what can be done with hardly anything at all. It's got a lot faster ET in it when i get it to hook.
Rule # 8. Don't change the stock headers till you get above 260-270hp. They are the best headers till you reach that hp. (Keeps low end torque) But get a new muffler and tail pipe combo for a good sound(Cat back system)
Seems your on a budget so go for a 65mm throttle body, 75mm MAF, and the GT-40 is the best intake for stock applications. But they don't make em anymore so Ebay is your best bet for one. Or you can just get an Edelbrock and you WILL be happy with the gain it gives.
3.55 gears for a 5spd, and 373's for an auto. As far as timing unless you plan on racing it I wouldn't bother. But if you do only raise it in 2 degree increments. I had mine at 14 for racing, 12 for everyday use. Stock is 10.
A good H/C/I will net you closer to 350.
I disagree on the header statement. While the stock tubes are OK, you can always benefit from a good set of shorties. Even long tubes, if you feel so inclined, though you won't see their full potential on a stock motor.
I went to FMS shorties and wished I hadn't.
Tri Cities huh? Guess I'll be seeing you around Bristol Dragway when they open back up.
Yea, you live in Big Stone? I used to do alot of work up there when I worked for Direct TV. I dont go to Bristol as much as I used to but the ricers kill the track and youre lucky to get 2 runs in all night with the crowd. I go to Rgersville 1/8 track more than Bristol. Bristol is great if you catch it at the right time.
If your not on a budget ditch the CAI and stay away from them! Get a power pipe with an 80mm MAF and a cone filter for the end. It actually add's HP unlike CAI's.
Do you have a link to it? I think I should have said better, I would not buy a off the shelf CAI, more than likely make one with 2.25 inch stainless and it would more than likely be more of a ram air than anything. I will not pay the retarded prices they have out there for a pipe and a cone filter becaue I have a $4000 tig welder I can use at anytime plus a nice mig so I do a majority of everything custom if I can.
I went to FMS shorties and wished I hadn't.
I know you remember what headers did for my car and that was a switch from aftermarket shorties to aftermarket long tubes.
I only make 258 to the tires, I really doubt going back to stock headers would keep me where I'm at, or even make more power as it seems your stating.
Now If you have proof of this somewhere, post it up, it's usually a hot topic.
I dunno GTO i have to disagree as well. I went to Mac full lengths/pro chamber/cat back from stock and picked up a solid .2 and i believe 3mph in the 1/4 over stock headers/offroad H/flowmasters, the biggest difference being the headers. People are always quick to point out how crappy the exhaust side of the heads flow, so i can't see how leaving the crappy crimped headers on is going to do anything but choke the engine, even low end torque. Every 'stang i've ever had, the first thing i did was add either shorties or full lengths and the gains are significant.
They are small and crimped TO GET the low end torque they are famous for. I changed the stock headers, off road H w/ bullets with and without tail pipes. I mite have gained a little up top but lost a noticeable amount of low end.
I know you remember what headers did for my car and that was a switch from aftermarket shorties to aftermarket long tubes.
I only make 258 to the tires, I really doubt going back to stock headers would keep me where I'm at, or even make more power as it seems your stating.
Now If you have proof of this somewhere, post it up, it's usually a hot topic.
What suspension are you running to attain the times in your sig because with the mods you have and the times you post look not right. I'm not trying to call you out or anything like that but would like to know because I'd like to so something similar to you.
Well not to brag but I've been known to be able to drive too, 12.50's in a bolt on C5 and 13.80's in a bolt on M6 LT1.