Looking at dyno results in the dyno thread
- Thread starter martyd
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I think we'll just agree to disagree on this one, but let me ask you this....before i switched from stock heads and cam, my car ran a best of 13.8, which was my 2nd pass ever on drag radials. I believe it would've gone a solid 13.5 with some practice and a 1.9 60 (was cutting 2.0+ those first 2 passes). My question is, do you think my car would've been faster or slower if i would've switched from my full lengths to the factory headers (assuming that i then switch to a matching X pipe for the short headers)?
If you had said something along the lines of torque coming on sooner or at lower RPMs, i may agree with you. With aftermarket shorties or full lengths, you're gonna make MORE torque, but maybe at a slightly higher RPM. At least that's my experience.
25thmustang
Mustang Master
Who races cars at 3000 RPM to see any gains from low end torque I guess is where I see the issue. Maybe the stockers help with low end, and that feels better leaving a stop light, but in an actual race the car will spend its time at 4500+ RPM.
It IS a stocker! And stockers make very little power above 4500rpm. I know I know you ran your in the 12's and your dad in the 11's. But they are far from floor room models bro.
cenok is family
15 Year Member
in actual performance mods (just engine, not including my suspension stuff), i have maybe around $1500 invested (i'm poor so i look around for deals), and i put down what my sig says. i have no problems believing once i get my super rich b/s in check (10.3:1) and get a better exhaust (crappiest non-mandrel bent H pipe and even worse long tubes) those numbers will raise up in the area of 280ish rwhp and 290-300rwtq. all that with ported stock heads. 
even with how it's running right now, i've taken out a new mach 1 and an ls1 t/a. they just happen to be the only races i've had since the heads/cam install too.
even with how it's running right now, i've taken out a new mach 1 and an ls1 t/a. they just happen to be the only races i've had since the heads/cam install too.
25thmustang
Mustang Master
No they arent floor models, but who here has a bone stock fox body or plans to keep it that way (a bone stock car at a race track will not be under 4000 RPM either). Even your combo is more stout than mine by the looks of your sig line. Thumper usually does more work to his heads than mine have done (I know, I've contacted him about finishing my head work). Stock headers on a bone stock and very very light bolt ons work alright, to think they are the best headers under 270 rwhp (coming from what you said and MY combo fits right into that as I dont make over 260 to the tires)... I think some proof would be needed before anyone is to believe that.
You don't have to get defensive "bro" but your opinion and mine differ on the subject. My only proof is what headers did for my car, and it isn't 100% accurate, or even close to accurate. But then again without solid proof from either side of the argument, it's all opinion based, and trying to prove a stock headers is the best header for an under 260 rwhp car, might be tough to get people on board.
Thats my take on it.
I believe a lot of people in the mustang world(especially 5 liter crowd) worry about having "low end torque". They seem to mod around that too, these cars make enough torque to not have to worry about having enough to get it moving. Just throwing that out from left field I guess.haha
MartyD, is that a picture of your car on the Dragon in your avatar?
MartyD, is that a picture of your car on the Dragon in your avatar?
That's a big debate that doesn't necessarily have a wrong answer. Some say gears, some say shifter, some say subframe connectors.
If it's an automatic, i'd say probably either gears or a converter. For a 5 speed i'd probably say shifter, but i'm picky and can't stand the stock shifter. Gears are a must for just about any of them though and are probably one of the biggest bang for your buck things you can do to a stock car to make it more fun.
Free stuff, right off the bat: Pull the air silencer and advance the timing. Stock is 10, but you can get away with 14 or more with 91 octane. Those two right there might be worth 5-10 hp.
I'd follow that up with a K&N panel filter (or a good CAI if you feel like spending a little more green) and exhaust. These cars are more fun when you can hear them.
Then gears and a aftermarket shifter (for a manual car).
Check out this website. It outlines some short and sweet basic mods for a 5.0, and what order they should be considered.
5.0 L Mustang Performance
I'd follow that up with a K&N panel filter (or a good CAI if you feel like spending a little more green) and exhaust. These cars are more fun when you can hear them.
Then gears and a aftermarket shifter (for a manual car).
Check out this website. It outlines some short and sweet basic mods for a 5.0, and what order they should be considered.
5.0 L Mustang Performance
Exactly...you're living proof of that!
Look at my sig and 25th's sig. Our cars are running almost the exact same times, but my MPH is much higher. I'm making more power, but he can hook up and drive.
RARE NOTCH
Member
I dynoed my 88 lx no option notch. It dynoed 241rwhp and 311rwtq
with a off road h-pipe flowmaster cat back timing bumped to 14 degrees.
The car only has 14000 miles on it. My best time at the track before i bumped the timing
is 13.5 ay 101mph with a 1.9 60ft on street tires. The car weights 3040lbs and that with a
1/2 tank of gas and the spare in the trunk. Now i cant wait to see what it will do when i do h/c/i over the winter.
with a off road h-pipe flowmaster cat back timing bumped to 14 degrees.
The car only has 14000 miles on it. My best time at the track before i bumped the timing
is 13.5 ay 101mph with a 1.9 60ft on street tires. The car weights 3040lbs and that with a
1/2 tank of gas and the spare in the trunk. Now i cant wait to see what it will do when i do h/c/i over the winter.
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