Looking for Idea/advice on build

It's the lesser of two evils IMO.

A 2618 piston has always been the gold standard for strength and endurance in a hi perf build. No premium piston builder would recommend something different if you went to them and told them that you were gonna put a forced induction power adder on top.

But, I think they are expecting you to make tuning errors,..I think they expect you'll have a part failure that'll cause a lean condition,...I think they expect you'll prefer a melted hole in your piston to a shattered or broken one that is waiting to get jammed into the head the next instant that con rod tries to shove the whole mess back up in the normal course of rotation....

But,..that's just me..I really don't know what they are thinking.

Every freakin engine I've built ( save 1) has had a true forged piston in it..The noise, the excessive skirt clearance required, the potential cylinder wear, and degraded ring seal that come as a result are the compromises that usually " weigh out" in favor of the 2618 piston in the end.

But don't take my word for it...call somebody.

I use Racetec Pistons in the monster..call them...ask for Randy.

And I wouldn't balance my own engine either..you need a rod scale that balances the rod and checks both ends of the rod

a91what said:

Ok I completely understand but here's the squeeze I'm trying to get a complete rotating assembly pre balanced shipped from someone to the house. I know the machine shop my block is at is a good shop but it's been 6 plus weeks now and I still haven't heard from them out even after bothering them every single week. I've lost faith in the machine shops in my area and I definitely don't want my balance to be off if I buy good parts cause I wanna do an internally balanced engine this time I just don't wanna have to rebuild it in 40000 miles because I used a 2618 piston...

I consider getting a rotating assembly from fordstrokers It appears that use a weisco piston in their assemblies which I'm pretty sure is a 2618 piston as well..

In reality in the last 5 years I haven't even driven the car 10000 miles not sure what I'm worried about

Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinking..we all think we're gonna drive the wheels off of these things..the truth is that we may own them forever, but the total mileage they'll ever see will not be relevant.

I know someday that the monster will be gone. I will get tired of it one day. This is the longest that I've ever owned the same car in my life. ( it'll be 6 years in August). If this was a late model anything else that was stock, it'd be a daily driver and that car would get miles piled on it in short order...
But we aren't talking about stock late models are we?

Buy the internally balanced system, and save yourself the $300 that you won't have to pay somebody to balance it. be advised though...
#1. If you can't get that damn machine shop to mic that bore, and tell you what piston to buy so you have an idea of whether or not it'll clean up at .020/.030 you need to go pick it up.
#2. If they have mic' the bore, and told you that, they're waiting on you to bring them what they need to proceed. Most of the places I've been to don't get serious about doing one damn thing to your engine until you prove your serious by dropping off the stuff they need to proceed.

If,..on the other hand, you've negotiated some other machine work, and they won't even do the simplest of sht.... You need to go pick it up.

1. Get on the phone and talk to the nearest REPUTABLE machine shop that you'll have to drive to and tell those fckers what you expect and see if you can get a commitment from them.
If you can't...
Then,...
2. Go get your junk from the machine shop that won't work on your engine and put the damn thing on a pallet and send it to me. I'll have the race shop that weight matched the new rods I just put in the monster do this engine and have it back to you before the existing machine shop will even get around to cleaning the block.

If you think about it Steve...it may be worth loading the stuff up and taking a road trip. My machine shop turned around engines in 3 days from when they receive the parts. Usually, takes about a week. That was Swanner Machine Shop in Baltimore. They were always great. S & S in baltimore city was a good spot also. Quick turn around. These places didn't look like it though.

I think I'm going to start a thread for local machine shops people here have used. It sure would help guys like me that have relocated.

With all the extra powah you may need one of these....

https://www.monstertransmission.com/AOD-High-Performance-Race-Transmission-2WD-Merch_p_12145.html