Looking Into Building A Top End For My Rebuild

JenkinsBS · Jul 21, 2012

So just putting some things together so IF I have to start my rebuild after all my checkups fail (worst case scnario), Ill know what I want and need to put the numbers I want out, ideally around 350 rwhp, just streetable.

So basically just top end. Ill have the motor rebuilt and re ringed, reuse the same pistons if they look good. Im looking into the following new components, trying to salvage as much as i can...

Thumper Ported E7s (219/155 cfm)
1.74 intake / 1.46 exhaust

Professional Products Typhoon Intake - I cant find much info on flow specs, other than its good for mild setups - http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ustang-Professional-Products-Satin-Intake-Kit

Professional Products 65mm Throttle Body And 65mm Egr Spacer

Proform 1.7 pedestal mount rocker arms

Pushrods, im not sure if I should go stock length or the 6.250's

Then possibly adding -
Ford Racing B303
New Hydo lifters if these ones I have are shot.

Anything that I look like im missing?

RangerJoe · Jul 21, 2012

JenkinsBS said:
So just putting some things together so IF I have to start my rebuild after all my checkups fail (worst case scnario), Ill know what I want and need to put the numbers I want out, ideally around 350 rwhp, just streetable.

I'm afraid you won't be anywhere near 350rwhp...not even fwhp, with this setup.

Joe

stykthyn · Jul 21, 2012

Thst list is a sub 300 list. For 350 streetable hp you need to build a healthy stroker or go forced induction. Possibly a mix of both.

a91what · Jul 21, 2012

If you have it apart, stroke it. Bigger TB, and a much bigger cam. like an F cam. Or research some newer cams, look into compcams or trickflow, or lunati cams these can all make bigger numbers than the B cam.

Or for real power do a custom grind.

stykthyn · Jul 21, 2012

F cam is not a big cam. You really need a custom grind for what you are after.

JenkinsBS · Jul 21, 2012

Stroking my motor - Just needs a new crank, rods, and balancer? I know they make kits with pistons and all that, just around $1000 for the parts, but thats not including labor from the shop.

Forced air - Probibly what ill be leaning torwards rather than stroking the motor, unless there is one glaring benefit that one has that the other doesnt, from which I can see is saving the cost in Labor

I can go with the 70 MM TB and Spacer combo from perforance parts, but thats as big as I think they make them

2000xp8 · Jul 21, 2012

That's about a 260rwhp setup at best.
None of those are quality parts.
With a rebuild, i'd say cost to get 300rwhp is between $3000-$4000 depending on how you shop and whether parts are new or used.

Even to crack 300rwhp you are going to need good heads, so if you really want a decent number, start looking for Twisted wedges, afr's, edelbrock rpms, gt40x etc..

You'll find very few iron headed setups these days that even top 275rwhp, and those usually have more money spent on them than it costs to just buy aluminum heads.

If you need an engine and money is a serious concern, get an explorer engine, slap an e cam in it, swap over your accesssories, get the right headers and go.
While not my personal preference, everyone's budget is different.
It would be a hell of alot cheaper than combo you have above and make at least the same if not more power.

stykthyn · Jul 21, 2012

I built an explorer motor with a tfs1 and just a valve spring swap that laid down 280 to the wheels. I wish I had the dyno sheet to prove it but that was years ago and I lost it 3 moves ago. total cost was 150 for the engine. 150 for the cam and 75 to have the new springs installed. so all in all 375 for for just shy of 300hp. unless you are building an all out race motor there is no need to set an hp goal and even then there are better places to spend your money than in the engine. A top suspension will do more for your 1/4 times and lap e/t's than dropping 3-4k in the motor. I have a buddy that says he wont be happy with less than 300hp in his car and guess what he only drives it to the bar after work. he's been saying this for years and has yet to do anything to his engine to even come close to that number. For a daily or weekend toy I would spend only what I needed to keep the car on the road.

a91what · Jul 21, 2012

Forced induction- the initial cost for a pos ON3 turbo kit, $1500. More for a supercharger, that does not include installation or getting the tune correct.

2000xp8 · Jul 21, 2012

With what appears to be a budget build based on the OP's first parts list plan, we probably should'nt even be talking forced induction at all, cost escalates exponentially and so do reliability issues, a supercharger or turbo exploits every weakness in the engine.

a91what · Jul 21, 2012

Ok so lets talk uses. what are you doing with the car? is it a daily driver, streetcar, or racecar?
With the heads you have a ton of tq is possible, build a setup with emphesis on low to mid range power and it can be just as fun to drive as a high rpm screamer.

henrod · Jul 21, 2012

you may could look into a trickflow top end kit. Thats what I did on my rebuild. I went with a track heat top end and a few other supporting mods. I havnt finished mine yet nor dynoed it. But if your looking for around 300rwhp you should be able to get that with either trickflow kit. There are a handfull of people ive seen on other forums get anywhere from 300-320rwhp. If your not wanting to do this in the next week or so, in about a month I should have mine done and dynoed.

My mods
Trick Flow Track Heat top end kit
BBK 1 5/8 long tubes
o/r xpipe
70mm accufab
#24 injectors
75mm pro-m maf
Adj fpr
BBK fuel rails
and im gonna get a chip when i get the car dynoed

JenkinsBS · Jul 21, 2012

a91what said:
Ok so lets talk uses. what are you doing with the car? is it a daily driver, streetcar, or racecar?
With the heads you have a ton of tq is possible, build a setup with emphesis on low to mid range power and it can be just as fun to drive as a high rpm screamer.

Its just going to be a a street car. Not planning on taking it to the track, just something that will be mean on the streets, at minimum I want those Thumper heads and the intake manifolds and TB - Just because I know that the 86 intake (upper/lower) are some of the most restrictive intakes out there. Im not looking to go 100+ MPH

NIKwoaC · Jul 21, 2012

If this is on a true '86 bottom end, you can forget about running E7 anything with any sort of aftermarket cam. You're lucky to be running them with the stock cam. Twisted Wedges are really your only option if you want to also do a cam.

a91what · Jul 21, 2012

well If your just building a streetcar, to save money you can use a explorer intake. It will flow way more cfm than the stock piece and you can get one very cheap at a junkyard (just a cheaper option). I actually have one sitting in my shed collecting dust. Keep your current injectors and MAF.
Use your money to get a custom grind cam that will compliment your setup perfectly. For a street car you use the lower rpm range more this is where you want to make your power. High rpm engines are better suited for the track.

JenkinsBS · Jul 21, 2012

NIKwoaC said:
If this is on a true '86 bottom end, you can forget about running E7 anything with any sort of aftermarket cam. You're lucky to be running them with the stock cam. Twisted Wedges are really your only option if you want to also do a cam.

Its definatly got the flat top pistons, pretty sure when I ran the serial number from the block it came up as an 86, and the old that came off were e6's, its the stock cam, but why am I lucky to be using the E7's? Valve clearence issues or something?

a91what - Ive thought about the explorer intake option, but I can save for a few months to get somethng that will be bolt on (for the most part). Ill deffinatly look into a custom grind cam to match what I am looking for, but stay away from the B cam?

a91what · Jul 21, 2012

The explorer intake is a bolt on option, its the same intake that came on the 93 cobra engines. It just looks different, everything bolts up to it just like your stock intake. The B cam is not a bad option, but it wont make the power that your looking for. I run the tried and true E cam. I love it, but if i did this over i would put a little more effort into part selection and ultimately used a custom grind. There are many manufacturers that make cams that will compliment your setup better, just call one and talk to a tech for awhile. you'll be glad you did.

Yes valve clearance issues. Later motors have notched pistons for ptv clearance

Gearbanger 101 · Jul 21, 2012

Why such a hard-on for Thumper heads? A set of out of the box GT40's perform just about as well as the Thumpers right out of the box and you can get them for a couple hundred dollars. THIS....will be your best option on a budget! If you insist on having a set of stock style heads ported, the GT40's are a much better starting point. Not only that....but it would also be the perfect excuse to pick up a complete Explorer engine. It's got the GT40 heads, the Cobra style intake, a larger 65mm throttle body and most importantly in your case, pistons that won't smash the hell out of your valves when you change the cam. All you really need to do is pony up for a decent cam a better set of valve springs and transfer over your current HO hardware to the new engine. It's not going to get any simpler or cheaper than that.

Going yoru route, you'll spend a lot of time and money for nothing modifying the stock crap. Trust me...I've been down that road. I ran ported E7TE head and ported intake on my last Fox. Was it an improvment....sure.....but not much of one. Even with all the work I put into it and full bolt-ons a decent H/C/I Mustang would have walked away from me pretty handily.

Iron GT40's are the absolute bare minimum I would ever run on an engine. Take the money you would have spend on having the E7TE's ported and put it towards a stroker rotating assembly. You'll get much more bang for your buck.

Rick 91GT · Jul 22, 2012

Ill chime in with my $0.02 I hate seeing guys dump money into a stock E7 head, just money spent in the wrong place IMO unless for some reason you are required to run that head.

Whats your budget?? That is the most important thing to coinsider to see where you can spend the money smartly. Quality component stroker shortblock will run you around $2000.00, the TFS kit around $2600, plus injectors and meter $400, $260 TB, and it snow balls from there quick.

The TFS kit usually produces about 300RWHP on a stock 87+ shortblock, with my own custom cam I've squeezed a little more out.

If I can help put you on the correct path let me know

Rick

a91what · Jul 22, 2012

Uhh guys i think he already has the thumpers, he is trying to reuse parts from the engine he has together now... so he doesnt spend any more than he has to.

Looking Into Building A Top End For My Rebuild

JenkinsBS

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

JenkinsBS

2000xp8

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog

2000xp8

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog

henrod

New Member

JenkinsBS

NIKwoaC

中國製造

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog

JenkinsBS

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog

Similar threads

Looking Into Building A Top End For My Rebuild

I leave the horn on while driving

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

SendMeUrDataLog

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

SendMeUrDataLog

SendMeUrDataLog

New Member

中國製造

SendMeUrDataLog

SendMeUrDataLog

Straight Outta Locash

Mustang Master

SendMeUrDataLog

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency