Lower Torque Box reinforcement qestion - to anyone who has them installed

smokin91' · Apr 1, 2006

Well i put the car up on jackstands today and took a look under as I will be installing my lower torque box reinforcements (UMI performance ones) next week, and it looks as if im going to have to remove my mufflers. I only have about an inch gap between the muffler and the hole i have to get the socket into to hold the control arm bolt.

Did any one else run into this problem, or have a trick to getting a socket in there?

in this tutorial somehow this guy got one in there, and thats about the exact same amount of space i have on my car.

Also what size socket is that lower control arm bolt?

Grn92LX · Apr 1, 2006

It'll be easier to drop the cat back. But maybe if you can pry the muffler out of the way. The catback is easy to drop, just disconenct it from the H pipe and take it off the hangers.

I got my catback dropped now as i'm in the middle of installing upr upper torque box reinforcements and upr adjustable upper control arms. I already have MM lca's and Rick 91GT's lower torque box reinforcements.

smokin91' · Apr 1, 2006

What size socket is that bolt for the control arms? Also once these are installed with full length subframes, is welding the seams of the torque boxes necessary? or will the battlebox clone supports be enough? I dont run slicks BTW.

Grn92LX · Apr 1, 2006

Welding the torque boxes IMO won't be necessary with reinforcements in place. Of course if you can, have it done. Mine aren't though.

The lowers should be 18mm like the uppers.

Are you doing uca's and lca's?

smokin91' · Apr 2, 2006

Im only doing lowers. I like to drive my car like i stole it, but I wont put slicks on, the most id do is drag radials. I just hear of all these horror stories aboout lower torque boxes so I figure I'll shell out the pennies they cost to give me the reassurance I need.

So like you just said, if i have subframes and the battle box clones welding up the boxes is pointless?? because i dont want to have to get it done if i dont have to

smokin91' · Apr 2, 2006

mine have a small crack in this area. Is it from stress or from jacking?

Its no where near the bolts that hold the control arm. just a small crack in that sheet metal ****

Rick 91GT · Apr 2, 2006

Why are your dropping the arms? Unless you want to grease the bushings, clean them or weld that are up the plates can be done with the arm in position....atleast mine can.

The nuts has to be removed, it is pointing towards the outside of the car correct? Welding up the stock seams will help make sure they stay where they need to be, install the kit first.

smokin91' · Apr 2, 2006

So to install the boxes all i have to do is take the nut off the control arm bolt? or will I have to get a socket in there to hold the bolt?if takin the nut off is all I have to do then retighten it after the boxes are in i will be a happy man.

Grn92LX · Apr 2, 2006

Yes, all you need to do it remove the nut. I thought you were doing lca's too.

You shouldn't ever be jacking your car up from the tq boxes!

smokin91' · Apr 2, 2006

If i loosen the control arm nut, the bolt isnt going to spin? I dont have to hold it from the other side with a socket do I? If not that saves me having to drop the cat-back, and makes this install 100x's easier.

Rick 91GT · Apr 2, 2006

You'll have to hold it from the other side or it will spin...

Shakerhood · Apr 3, 2006

Rick 91GT said:
Why are your dropping the arms? Unless you want to grease the bushings, clean them or weld that are up the plates can be done with the arm in position....atleast mine can.

The nuts has to be removed, it is pointing towards the outside of the car correct? Welding up the stock seams will help make sure they stay where they need to be, install the kit first.

Rick, do your plates require welding in, or are they strictly bolt in?

DmnStr8 · Apr 3, 2006

Arg not to hijack the thread but....

I just found out that the previous owner installed the bolts backwards on my LCAs. Guess I will have to drop my LCAs.

Anyone know the best way to do this?

Rick 91GT · Apr 3, 2006

Yes, they are a bolt in item...

If the bolts are in backwards you will need to drop the cat back...

rd · Apr 3, 2006

You should not have to drop the arm out to swap the bolt direction. The bolts work both ways, although I think one way is much easier.... I have Lakewood traction bar snubber brackets on the outside of mine.

To hold the arm in place, jack the car up, by the front of the rear torque box, and put a jackstand there, leaving room to work, and put another jack under the lower arm.

I would recommend jacking it by the torque box. Nothing else back there is strong enough to jack on. I do use the rear of my subframes occasionally, but by the area they are welded. Normally I jack under the pumpkin.

smokin91' · Apr 3, 2006

What should I torque the control arm nut to? Or should I just get it as tight as i can get it?

DmnStr8 · Apr 3, 2006

rd said:
You should not have to drop the arm out to swap the bolt direction. The bolts work both ways, although I think one way is much easier.... I have Lakewood traction bar snubber brackets on the outside of mine.

To hold the arm in place, jack the car up, by the front of the rear torque box, and put a jackstand there, leaving room to work, and put another jack under the lower arm.

I would recommend jacking it by the torque box. Nothing else back there is strong enough to jack on. I do use the rear of my subframes occasionally, but by the area they are welded. Normally I jack under the pumpkin.

I just want to clarify something, because I'm not too comfortable jacking the car up by the torque boxes. Is there a reason that I can't just raise the rear end by the pumpkin as I always do? Is it so that the only point supporting the suspension would be the jack I'm using to hold up the control arm?

Thanks (Sorry if its obvious. mechanical newb here)

smokin91' · Apr 4, 2006

Heres a pic of the jacking points on a mustang. Reasons I have heard not to jack it up from the pumpkin is it can dent the cover and cause the rear to leak.

axionjaxon · May 30, 2006

Yo guys I had problems with my torque boxes on my fox mustang. I bought a couple of kits to fix the problem and still have one for sale.

It includes everything pictured, and installation instructions.

Let me know if anyone needs these...

fox racer · May 30, 2006

If the bolt was reversed (like mine was) heres what i did:

Drop the LCA: put a jack with something on it ( i used a thick piece of scrap metal, this is so you put upward pressure ont he LCA NOT the TB, it also makes removign the bolt easier.) and SLIGHTLY jack the LCA under tho bolt that is on the REAR not the chassis. remove the bolt, slowly lower and and take out the spring. Now, take out the other bolt, put in the TB reinforcement, pute the bolt back in, reinstall spring and LCA, then proceed with the installation of the LCA reinforcment.

This is what i did for my LCA's, and i have SS lift bars, so the bushings have to be lined up PERFECTLY in order for the bolts to go in (no bushings), and i left the exhaust in tact. have fun! it was a PITA!

Lower Torque Box reinforcement qestion - to anyone who has them installed

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