Lowering springs, Front Camber & Rear Panhard Bar

[Over's GT]

on the rear relocation brackets and other susp. stuff check out this site.

as to the nessesity of most of this for anything other then a car that see's track action, I don't know?
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005Mustang.htm

 

[gp001]

Yep, that's whose stuff I bought. Relocation brackets are on the way

 

[Over's GT]

gp001

I just thought of something, reguarding your post:

"My camber was way off after lowering with the Pro Kit. Find a competent alignment shop and they will be able to realign without the camber plates. If you go with a spring that lowers it more than the pro kit you may need the plates."
I was under the impression that camber was fixed on '05's, is it possible that your shop elongated the holes on the struts or brackets with a die grinder to get the camber in spec? I don't even know if this is possible as I have not had it apart or seen up close

I have herd of this done before on different front ends

thanks.

 

[gp001]

gp001

I just thought of something, reguarding your post:

"My camber was way off after lowering with the Pro Kit. Find a competent alignment shop and they will be able to realign without the camber plates. If you go with a spring that lowers it more than the pro kit you may need the plates."
I was under the impression that camber was fixed on '05's, is it possible that your shop elongated the holes on the struts or brackets with a die grinder to get the camber in spec? I don't even know if this is possible as I have not had it apart or seen up close

I have herd of this done before on different front ends

thanks.

Nope, they would never do that, and I would not want/allow that.

It was way off because we didn't take the extra steps to measure and adjust after reinstalling the strut. I just didn't care because it was going in for alignment and I was still on my stock wheel/tires. My alignment shop had absolutely no problems getting it within spec.

 

[Section8]

Nope, they would never do that, and I would not want/allow that.

It was way off because we didn't take the extra steps to measure and adjust after reinstalling the strut. I just didn't care because it was going in for alignment and I was still on my stock wheel/tires. My alignment shop had absolutely no problems getting it within spec.

I remember reading in Grassroots Motorsports about a project Neon SRT-4 that they couldn't get to handle like they wanted at an autocross because they couldn't get enough neg camber. Well they dug up a FACTORY bolt kit that allowed them to do this without camber plates.

Obviously going the other way in camber adjustment on a completely different car, but my point is I think that this type of kit may be a common thing among auto manufacturers, just not widely known about.

 

[afixer]

hey gt i posted the ford sheet ( grinding) in pdf and also posted the site of the co making the adjusting bolts. obviosly the bolts are the better way to go

 

[coladin]

With the Eibach pro kit on myine, the mechanic said tha there is a slight camber built into these springs. he said do not get the camber plates because this will negate the handling effects of the Eibachs. It will just look nice but the little negative camber produces much better handling.

I called Eibach myself and the tech guy said tha they put in a little camber and this greatly enhances handling and will contribute only a 5% increase, maximum, tire wear.

 

[Section8]

Eibach doesn't really put the camber in the springs, rather it's a direct result of the suspension geometry being changed after installation, and this is true of any car that is lowered.

That being said, a little (or a lot, I run 1.2neg on all four corners) is really fun on track or at an autocross, but it tears up tires on the street.

I'm planning on putting this kit on my GT when I get it, and I'm going to take it to my alignment shop ASAP, no waiting at all. There it'll get a complete 4 wheel alignment to as close to factory specs as possible.

 

[brownbrosperf]

I use the Eibach pro kit on a regular basis. You should have an adjustable panhard bar as said, or better yet relocate the mounting point of the factiry one (haven't played with this yet) I tend to shy away from the Steeda kit as when it was released it was an absolute joke. The rear sprins were just coil over springs robbed from another setup, and the fronts were wrapped wrong causing them to destroy the strut bearings do to uneven loading. I wouldnt use a Sportline kit or anything that low as I have noticed some bottoming in the rear when "spirited" driving with the Pro kit
The stock rear shocks are also very limited in valving and are prone to ALOT of bounce when launching with a sticky