Lugs n studs?????

[schwerdt1]

Needing to replace the studs and lugs I would say!! Fronts are Weld Draglites, upon closer look, not sure what the backs are with the 4 lug pattern. Best recommendations for studs and lugs please guys.

 

[2000xp8]

Been a long time since i had a set of welds (i had a 5 lug set), but if i remember correctly, they used special lug nuts that dropped in the hole with a washer.

 

[schwerdt1]

Im seeing short shank lug nuts, maybe those are them. I emailed Weld Racing, but no response.

 

[schwerdt1]

Im seeing short shank lug nuts, maybe those are them. I emailed Weld Racing, but no response.

Been a long time since i had a set of welds (i had a 5 lug set), but if i remember correctly, they used special lug nuts that dropped in the hole with a washer.

 

[2000xp8]

Weld Lug Nuts | Chrome Finish - LMR.com

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lmr.com

I think they were long shank, but i'm really not sure, i got them with the wheels.

 

[revhead347]

Oh , who put acorn nuts in Weld wheels? You've got a death trap running acorn lug nuts on Weld wheels. Weld wheels need a special mag style lug nut with a 1.380" shank. Go ahead and get the ones that thread all the way through.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wld-601-1426

As for the studs, the longer the better. You want a 3" long or as close as you can get to it stud with those lug centric wheels. If the lug nut doesn't start threading before it gets into the wheel, it's going to be a continuous struggle with broken studs. I like the ARPs with the fast thread ends.

Kurt

 

[schwerdt1]

Oh , who put acorn nuts in Weld wheels? You've got a death trap running acorn lug nuts on Weld wheels. Weld wheels need a special mag style lug nut with a 1.380" shank. Go ahead and get the ones that thread all the way through.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wld-601-1426

As for the studs, the longer the better. You want a 3" long or as close as you can get to it stud with those lug centric wheels. If the lug nut doesn't start threading before it gets into the wheel, it's going to be a continuous struggle with broken studs. I like the ARPs with the fast thread ends.

Kurt

Yeah, think they were put on just to hold wheels on for transport on trailer. So 3" studs all the way around, with the long shank nuts you think?

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, think they were put on just to hold wheels on for transport on trailer. So 3" studs all the way around, with the long shank nuts you think?

Most definitely. I"m not on top of what year your Mustang is. You can go on www.advanceautoparts.com, and look up a wheel stud for your car. It's going to be different for the front and back. On the base description it will give you the "knurl diameter." It's usually 0.618" for the rear, and 0.589" for the front. You want to match up a Moser, or ARP 1/2"-20 RH tread stud as close as you can get to that factory knurl diameter. I know on an SN Mustang you have to take the axle out of the differential to get the 3" studs in because of the ABS reluctor ring, but I don't think you have to on a Foxbody so long as you take the entire brake assembly off. Fronts are easy, just bang the old ones out of the rotor, bang new ones in.

If it's something you don't want to do right now, at least get the lug nuts. They will work fine on the stock studs, but you will end up braking a lot of studs by inadvertantly cross threading them.

Kurt