Machine shop question

I grabbed a block from a junkyard and had a shop clean it and a set of heads up. Had everything hot tanked/magnafluxed 3 ang. valve job, bronze guides, had my block bored .030 and he offered to put my shortblock together for an extra 100 bucks so I told him to go for it. All in all rebuild kit included, cost me 1100 bucks and had an assembled short block and heads.
 
- Bore and Hone with torque plates to 4.030
- Line Hone Block
- Mock-Up and square deck block
- Clearance block for crank and stroke clearance
- Cleaning, cam bearings, and oil galley plugs
- Painted and prepped

This was from Keith Craft for $600. He does TOP NOTCH work.

It cost more than this to get a rebuild though. I also had him balance the assembly (485 rpm), apply rod bolts with heat, assembly fees.

It ended up being in the $1,200 range to their shop and I supplied the parts.

It is a bit more expensive than a typical shop, but I got the 40+ years of quality building with it. The typical wait at their busy shop was 8-10 weeks. I told them I needed it A.S.A.P., and got it in 3 weeks during their racing season.
 
Freeze plugs are so easy to install I would not pay anyone to do it, so are cam bearings but you need a damned expensive single purpose tool. I paid nothing for a motor, tore it down and brought them the pieces(usually shops will charge for disassembly). They cleaned up the block for around 100 and charged 150ish to turn the crank. Cam bearings and freeze plugs cost around 25-30 and usually they will charge you a little to knock them in. I had them blast the oil pan and valve covers and I painted them and the block. They did charge me a little(25) to clean up the pistons as they were factory forged and worth saving. Not that I'm trying to sell it to you but I put the whole lot in the classified for 500. Point is sometimes it is cheaper to simply buy new stuff than refurbish your own and then you can clean up/sell your old stuff and recoup some money. Thats how I like to do it anyway.
Matt