MAF sensor advice
- Thread starter irvgotti
- Start date
Maryland Stang
Active Member
Please list all of your mods. If at all possible you should stick with the SD. Everything I have ever read about it says that SD is faster than MAF.
Mods are eld performer rpm upper intake..eld lower intake...i just switch back to stock throttle body from the 70mm one...3.73 gears..flowmaster exhaust system..x pipe dont know what comapny tho...and just put back 19 pound injectors...from the 24's that was on it...and i disconnected the battery for 10 mins after the 19 pound injector swap and stock TB...car sluggish and pops somtimes...seems liek it cant learn..???..I did the switch cause the car was running way rich with the 24 #
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Maryland Stang said:
It is! My father has an '87 that would rip my car to pieces when we had similar mods. However, he likes his cars stock and I like mine slightly modded.... So I required a setup with MAF.
Anyway back on topic: There isn't any difference between the MAF sensor used between 1988 - 1993 (1988 California cars were equiped with MAF systems) You'll need the computer, sensor and harness. I think that is all. In fact, there was a '89 Mustang MAF + electronics on eBay the other day.
The only difference bewteen the years 1987 - 1993 for intake track components is the size of the Throttle body. In 1987/88 the TB is 58mm. Starting in 1989 the TB grew to 60mm.
The MAF sensor was always 55mm in diameter. There are aftermarket companies (C&L, PMAFS, etc) that offer larger housings but retain the stock electronics. These larger housings eliminate one of the choke points in the stock intake track. Most ragazines claim around 5 - 10 HP improvements in the upper RPM's with the larger housings.
Maryland Stang
Active Member
irvgotti said:
You didn't do anything that should cause problems with the SD. jricher will probably see this and can help you find the problem.
Oh and by the way, you have wwwwaaaayyyy too much intake on that car. It would be faster with the stock lower ported and the stock upper. You could also use the Cobra/GT40/Explorer, TF Street, BBK SSI type of manifolds.
the previous owner had 24 pound injectors..and the engine ran fine smooth as glass..but it was very rich and car was getting about 10 MPG...so i go and put stock injectors and stock TB and...to mostly improve gas milage..and some ppl even suggested it might help with power...but it pops and idles at 600 to 1200 going up and down rarley steady, wich is why i think going to mass air should work???....could the previous owner have the computer tweaked for the last setup and thats why its acting up????
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
1 more Question
So i ordered the eguus code reader....do i use the reader and still use voltmeter method or do i use the reader and thats it????
So i ordered the eguus code reader....do i use the reader and still use voltmeter method or do i use the reader and thats it????
OK This is wats been ive done
Thanx for the advise J....I used my cuz code reader and we ran running test and the off test...but sugested that the throttle position sensor is falty (wich was suspect from the begining cause i had to put one of the wires back in the clip cause it was out and it lookd very old).and the oxgyen sensors also came up...with egr and map sensors....but whats strange the car ran fine until i changed the injectors and throttle body (but anyways)...
.............sooo i proceeded ive bought a new wire harness from ford racing before i got the car...and it came with oxygen sensors egr selinoids and relays wich i dont know what are the relays for....so i installed a new TPS and it fixed the idle problem...but the car still poped and jerked but less often...i installed the egr sel..and the and the car runs much better but still poped but not nearly as dramitcal and the jerking has stopped...so far thats all cause i cant get the damn O2 sensors out rust got a hold of it..ill cut the bungs and get new ones welded in...and hope fully this will finally put a end to this popin situation....MAP/BAP sensor hard to fin what is that for??????
Thanx for the advise J....I used my cuz code reader and we ran running test and the off test...but sugested that the throttle position sensor is falty (wich was suspect from the begining cause i had to put one of the wires back in the clip cause it was out and it lookd very old).and the oxgyen sensors also came up...with egr and map sensors....but whats strange the car ran fine until i changed the injectors and throttle body (but anyways)...
.............sooo i proceeded ive bought a new wire harness from ford racing before i got the car...and it came with oxygen sensors egr selinoids and relays wich i dont know what are the relays for....so i installed a new TPS and it fixed the idle problem...but the car still poped and jerked but less often...i installed the egr sel..and the and the car runs much better but still poped but not nearly as dramitcal and the jerking has stopped...so far thats all cause i cant get the damn O2 sensors out rust got a hold of it..ill cut the bungs and get new ones welded in...and hope fully this will finally put a end to this popin situation....MAP/BAP sensor hard to fin what is that for??????
Code 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the atmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline for the air/fuel mixture by sensing changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury - dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it.
The MAP/BARO sensor is mounted on the firewall behind the upper manifold.
Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.
If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer
The MAP/BARO sensor is mounted on the firewall behind the upper manifold.
Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.
If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer
ok
Well thanx for the break down...i up my fuel pressure (dont know what PSI cause i have one of those brothers that borrows someting and i never get back).....but the car runs alot better..rarly ever pops but it does once in a blue..and also i some times feel like the car is restricted cause every sometimes i will put it on full throttle and i feel the G's from the torgue but sometimes the G force hesitates around 3500 RPM....i feel like something is not optimal...i hoping a new baro well help and the O2 sensors but the damn thing is fused on by rust a pipe wrench couldent take it out..all and all the damn sensors are stripped so it looks like imma need new bungs..just tryin to fid out where to get them??
Well thanx for the break down...i up my fuel pressure (dont know what PSI cause i have one of those brothers that borrows someting and i never get back).....but the car runs alot better..rarly ever pops but it does once in a blue..and also i some times feel like the car is restricted cause every sometimes i will put it on full throttle and i feel the G's from the torgue but sometimes the G force hesitates around 3500 RPM....i feel like something is not optimal...i hoping a new baro well help and the O2 sensors but the damn thing is fused on by rust a pipe wrench couldent take it out..all and all the damn sensors are stripped so it looks like imma need new bungs..just tryin to fid out where to get them??
Some PB Blaster applied to the O2 sensor bung and left to soak for a whike will help. Use an air hammer or regular hammer and tap on the bungs to help shake and break loose the rusted O2 sensors loose. If you use a regular hammer, it will take lots of hard taps do do the same thing as about 30 seconds of the air hammer.
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