Making my list for the motor. . .

[Zero Signal]

I'll be done porting/polishing the GT40's this weekend so I'll be getting them to the machinist on monday or tuesday to get a valve job, new guides milled etc and a flow test. Once I get the numbers, it's time for a cam (custom grind if I can't find one that matches well).

So that leaves me sitting with, heads, intake, TwEECer and a cam.


So now for the list. . . . what all do I need? This is what I have minus the extraneous items like thread sealer, cam lube etc etc.

- Roller rockers . . . where could I find decent ones that aren't too expensive?

- Headers - Should I get these now and save some hassle down the road? I was thinking of just some chrome BBK's.

- Lifters - I think I can use the stock ones

- Intake to head gaskets . . . which ones are the best?

- Head gaskets . . . again, which ones are the best to go with, with future plans of maybe 8lbs of boost?

- Pushrods . . . I'm on a super tight budget so can I use stockers? What would be a reasonable replacement?

- CAI - I'm thinking of making my own CAI

- MAF and/or 65-70mm TB - Should I even bother with these yet, or just wait and bolt them on later?

- Loooong weekend

Let me know what your opinions are and tell me what I missed. I got beat by a turbo civic last night and I'm still pissed about it. Looks like I'll be blowing a paycheck, but I need to get off my ass and do this

 

[CManT1914]

Rockers - eBay, I got my TFS rockers for $150. Otherwise summit has good prices. If you run 1.7's, you're gonna need taller valve covers, which means you're gonna need an intake spacer, most likely 3/8".

Headers - absolutely, they are SOOO easy to do with the heads off the car.

Lifters - If you're on a budget, yes, stock will work. But they're only $119 from 50resto for FRPP ones, and you don't want one collappsing on you. If you can afford it, replace them while you're at it.

Intake gaskets - FelPro, just go to the parts store and buy them. What kind of intake? If it's a Cobra or GT-40 style intake, make sure you tell them Mustang Cobra, not GT, or you'll get the wrong ones.

Head gaskets - Again, fel-pro. Cometics makes excellent gaskets from what I hear, BUT, they're designed to not blow out on you. But if the head gasket doesn't fail, then something else will. I'd rather replace head gaskets then valve guides, piston rings...... you get the idea.

Pushrods - I think you can use stock pushrods with GT-40 heads. BUT..... you're gonna want to use pedestal mount rockers. Stud mounts require guideplates, and guideplates require aftermarket hardened pushrods to avoid wear on them.

CAI - Build your own, wise choice.

MAF/Throttle body - You're probably gonna want bigger injectors, 24's probably. With those comes the need for a new MAF. I recommend NOBODY except Pro-M. A throttle body is a good idea too, although not neccessary. What kind of intake? Most have a 70mm opening, so get a 70mm throttle body.

Long weekend - and possibly a couple weekdays too. I started friday afternoon, and got it fired up late sunday night. If I had started saturday, it wouldn't have been done. This was working until 3am sunday morning too. I think I had 41 hours in my car that weekend, lol.

You're gonna wanna replace the timing chain while you're in there for sure! I recommend FRPP double roller steel. Summit has the chain/sprocket set for $70. Good luck bud!

 

[RIO5.0]

I replaced all the internals when i did mine...I did new lifters/PRs but with only 50k on em they really didnt need it...if yours are low milage and look good, odds are your ok...if cash is tight???...otherwise replace em....
Is the motor out??? If so I would do the oilpump, rearmain and pilot shaft bearing, waterpump to....

I agree with Fel-Pro..I use nothing but...I got the FRPP master gasket kit...everything is in it...use em all....Do the front main seal while its apart...I assume your swapping the balancer if its OEM???

Head gaskets...If boost is in your future then plan accordingly....do the right gaskets now...

the more you replace now the better to me, especially since its apart....once its back together it shouldn't need nothing but driving...makes for low maintnance...you basically have a new motor...

 

[urban96]

i would highly suggest changing the lifters, 50resto and summit sell the ford racing ones for 119, also since your milling the heads your gonna need to buy a shim kit for your rockers to maintain proper geometry while still using stock pushrods.

if you wanted to go with hardend pushrods ford racing also sells a set of hardend stock length ones for $44 i think

 

[final5-0]

I'll be done porting/polishing the GT40's this weekend so I'll be getting them to the machinist on monday or tuesday to get a valve job, new guides milled etc and a flow test. Once I get the numbers, it's time for a cam (custom grind if I can't find one that matches well).

So that leaves me sitting with, heads, intake, TwEECer and a cam.


So now for the list. . . . what all do I need? This is what I have minus the extraneous items like thread sealer, cam lube etc etc.

- Roller rockers . . . where could I find decent ones that aren't too expensive?

- Headers - Should I get these now and save some hassle down the road? I was thinking of just some chrome BBK's.

- Lifters - I think I can use the stock ones

- Intake to head gaskets . . . which ones are the best?

- Head gaskets . . . again, which ones are the best to go with, with future plans of maybe 8lbs of boost?

- Pushrods . . . I'm on a super tight budget so can I use stockers? What would be a reasonable replacement?

- CAI - I'm thinking of making my own CAI

- MAF and/or 65-70mm TB - Should I even bother with these yet, or just wait and bolt them on later?

- Loooong weekend

Let me know what your opinions are and tell me what I missed. I got beat by a turbo civic last night and I'm still pissed about it. Looks like I'll be blowing a paycheck, but I need to get off my ass and do this

Hey John

I see the three key words.............Super Tight Budget

Since you are using gt40 heads, we are talkin ped rockers and no guide plates. That means if your stock pr's give the correct vt geom, then use em ...... that is one way to save a buck or two.

Homemade cai ...... easy & cheap .............nuff said

TB & MAF

Without a doubt, the tb can wait if it will help the budget.

Since you got the Tweecer, you can use the stock maf cause I'd be willing to bet the farm, you won't peg the stocker.

INJECTORS ...... not the best kinda thing to try and skimp or just get by on

I'd go for some 24's as the stocker 19's just ain't gonna cut it for your plans.

btw ...... Since you got the Tweecer, you could go with 30's if better flowing heads, etc, etc, etc might be in your future plans.

There you go bud! ...... an idea or two to save a green-back or two

Grady

 

[Zero Signal]

Well, the injectors will wait untill I know I need larger ones. Scott (mo_dingo) and I are gonna pickup a PLX wideband and share it for awhile. Once I get some numbers I'll change them. Thanks for the input guys! Much appreciated

So, MAF is staying. I'll probably do the TB some other date. I'll get the RR's off Ebay but I'm gonna try to stick with 1.6's since the Explorer intake is really close to the hood as is. I'll tell people I didn't get 1.7's becuase I have a stock hood, they'll NEVER figure that one out!

 

[mo_dingo]

Well, the injectors will wait untill I know I need larger ones. Scott (mo_dingo) and I are gonna pickup a PLX wideband and share it for awhile. Once I get some numbers I'll change them. Thanks for the input guys! Much appreciated

So, MAF is staying. I'll probably do the TB some other date. I'll get the RR's off Ebay but I'm gonna try to stick with 1.6's since the Explorer intake is really close to the hood as is. I'll tell people I didn't get 1.7's becuase I have a stock hood, they'll NEVER figure that one out!

One WOT run while datalogging will tell you if you are getting past 85% duty cycle, right??? So it can wait if need be. If you do max out, then you will just have to stay out of the throttle until you can afford some 24's or 30's, and just yank the upper and swap em'.

I am ready whenever you are to get the wideband.

I thought any of the aftermarket rockers require taller VC's??? If so, then that means a 3/8" intake manifold spacer.

Yup, stick w/ the 1.6's and get the cam ground to whatever lift you want.

I don't know about the push rods, but if Tmoss see's this thread, I am sure he can tell you exactly which length rods you will need. If the stockers won't work, you will be in for a heap of trouble and the car will be down for a while. So you need to know for sure before you start the project.

Definately leave the stock TB and MAF for now. Your MAF transfer curve is probably very close to perfect, so no point messing with it until you get he wideband.

How's the ghetto rigged EGR tube blockoff working out???
Scott

 

[final5-0]

I thought any of the aftermarket rockers require taller VC's??? If so, then that means a 3/8" intake manifold spacer.

Scott

Don't the stock Cobra's come with 1.7 rr's AND use a vc just like the GT?

Grady

 

[Zero Signal]

The high-tech aluminum tape? Lol, works perfectly. I do need to hook the EGR back up sometime. Even with half a bolt hole on the adapter, I think I can make it work somehow.

 

[Joes95GT]

A lot of the things you want depend on the cam....

Some cams are going to be made for a set of 1.7's. We just put together a Jay Allen 308" motor that he specs the cam for with 1.7's. As ridiculous as it sounds, the ratio of the rocker can limit the cam design in some situations. Also, I've seen the needle bearings and trunions take a **** in the TFS rockers on more than one occasion. I'd stick to the Scorpions - 200 bucks and a lifetime warrantee.

I would also wait and talk to a cam designer to find out what you will need as far as injectors go. Running 24's in a car with 330-350 flywheel horsepower isn't healthy. You are running dangerously close to the maximum duty cycle.

A the best way for a motor to run (efficiently and from a performance stand point) is with a BSFC of 0.5. 0.5 lbs/hr of fuel to support one horsepower 350 FWHP (just to guess)* .5 lbs/hr = 175 lbs/hr divided by the number of cylinders (8) = 21.9 lbs/hr. Ok, this tells us that, "sure, we'll be perfectly fine running 24 lb/hr injectors. Well, not really. This is assuming you are running at 100% of the injector duty cycle. Some will say to run an injector at 65% of it's duty cycle and some will say 80%. I'll pick 80% for the sake of argument....

175 lbs/hr * 125% = 219 lbs/hr / 8 cylinders = 27.something.....

I hope I'm making sense...

Joe

 

[CManT1914]

Don't the stock Cobra's come with 1.7 rr's AND use a vc just like the GT?

Grady

I thought the Cobras had different valve covers. The do come with 1.7's, I know that for sure.

FWIW, I don't know if this has been mentioned before, but fox body valve covers will clear 1.7 rockers.

I hope I'm making sense...

Joe

I understood ya! But I've read up on that before.

 

[GRGT1994]

You guys are forgetting the most important item.











BEER!!!!

Trust me, you will need some.

Other than that, plenty of good advice above. Have some PB Blaster handy, along with some zip lock bags for little parts and screws. A new balancer may be in order. And I would do the headers now (if budget allows) - it's so easy to drop them in without the heads on. (get some 1" or locking header bolts too if you do them now). Take a few pictures before you start, and as you go along.

Good luck, and enjoy.

 

[CManT1914]

BEER!!!!

Other than that, plenty of good advice above. Have some PB Blaster handy, along with some zip lock bags for little parts and screws. A new balancer may be in order. And I would do the headers now (if budget allows) - it's so easy to drop them in without the heads on. (get some 1" or locking header bolts too if you do them now). Take a few pictures before you start, and as you go along.

Good luck, and enjoy.

Yea DEFINITELY get some plastic baggies and BAG EVERY NUT AND BOLT YOU TAKE OUT! I don't mean individually, but like the upper intake bolts, put them in a bag. The timing cover bolts, put those in a bag, you get the idea. Trust me, you will be VERY glad you did. You'll also need antiseize, thread sealant, RTV, 5 quarts oil, 2 gallons antifreeze, 2 gallons water etc. etc.

 

[Zero Signal]

Yeah I understand the injector science. I also was thinking 75-80% DC. I'll ask the guy who's designing the cam about what he would recommend. But still, I'm gonna get some numbers I think before choosing and seeing what will be best before buying something. Since injectors seem to have decent resale value, I'm not worried about having to upgrade them once I get some boost way down the road.