many different simple questions

[fivespeedsteed]

1. can i take the cover over the master coil off? i lost one of those push pin deals a while ago so now it just flops, is it needed?

2. how much usualy is the labor of taking apart an engine and building it back. i have a few bad seals, so i was wondering if it would be worth it to take it apart and have someone look at it to see what kind of shape its in, fix whatever is broken (maybe to stop rattles and stuff) and replace all of my gaskets, which i know is around 100 dollars for a set of gaskets.

3. how is everyone getting over 20 mpg.? im only getting like 13, i put 35psi in all my tires. im still only getting like 160 miles till i have about 1/4 of a tank left and im afraid to run it any dryer becasue i dont trust my gauge to be that accurate, and its supposed to be bad on your fuel pump isnt it?

4. where can i get some cheap front 2 rotors. i want to get new ones, maybe slotted? maybe better vents and cooling holes? show me some.

5. what kind of brake pads in the front should i be using?

6. what can i do to my drums to make them stop better?

7. how should i learn to read my gas gauge correctly?

thanks for all the help in advance.

oh and i got an application to advance autoparts today, you dont have to be under 18 to work there. anyone know what they pay, how they treat you, ect.?

thanks :SNSign:

 

[dragnazz5.0]

1. yes you can take it off
2. not sure...depends on what is needed
3. i was getting crappy gas mileage like you are until i found out i had a bad injector. went from 15 mpg to 20. could be driving related also
4. dont worry about slotted or drilled rotors. get the job at advance and get the discount
5. the bendix pads are good from advance or hawk pads are really good also. depends on how much you want to spend. id recommend the hawks racing pads
6. make sure the shoes are clean and have plenty of meat on them, make sure they are adjusted properly and the drums arent out of round. make sure all the hardware is in good order
7. just go by mileage, the gas gauge is probably wrong

i worked at advance for almost two years as a commercial parts pro. not a bad job because you get discounts on parts, i hated the store i worked at but it wasnt all that bad. be prepared to deal with stupid people

 

[Hickfied]

1) Yes.

2) Read up here, and do it yourself... It's a thousand dollars cheaper.

3) Make sure everything is working properly, and your getting a good afr.

4) AutoZone or Advanced Auto. I would suggest waiting to go for 5 lug if you really want to "upgrade" your rotors.

That's all I can offer advice for....

 

[JChalfan]

For gas milage, I get about 13.5 around town with the supercharger, about 15 before SC install. That's all around-town driving, no freeway. And I drive pretty nice, almost never put my foot into it, and don't accelerate much quicker than I need to.

It seems like I should be getting better, but I don't know for sure. That's with new injectors.

Of course if you're putting your foot to the floor all the time, your gas mileage is gunna suck.

Jeff

 

[fivespeedsteed]

thats the thing its rare if i shift over 3k, its usually around 2 - 2.25k. i prolly get about 10 seconds of WOT per tank of gas i burn total.

 

[JChalfan]

That's about how I drive and I still get terrible mileage. When a lot of guys talk about their mileage, it might include some or a lot of freeway driving, which makes a huge difference.

Jeff

 

[vristang]

Pull the codes from the computer. You can be throwing codes and never have the Check Engine Light come on.
Find out what the computer says is going on.

There are MANY factors in fuel economy. Comparing between cars is tough.

O2 sensors can make a big difference, even if you don't get an O2 sensor code.

jason

 

[JChalfan]

O2 sensors can make a big difference, even if you don't get an O2 sensor code.

vristang, that's good to know. I don't have an O2 sensor code, so I have been hesitant to replace my sensors. I figured I didn't need to since I don't have a O2 sensor code, but knowing that, I guess I'll go ahead and change 'em. They're only about $35 each, dirt cheap in the world of O2 sensors.

Jeff

 

[vristang]

If you can afford to live in Bellevue, then it is dirt cheap.

How long has it been since you replaced them? I think the factory recommends 60k miles or so for the O2s.

jason

 

[HISSIN50]

One could also check the O2's for amplitude and frequency to get an idea of how they're doing. That's a chunk of cash to me.

 

[JChalfan]

vristang, don't confuse "living" in bellevue with renting out a family friends basement while you're back in school

The car has 135k, I've owned it for the last 5k, so I have no idea when, if ever, the O2 sensors were last changed. I figure it probably needs it by now, but i'll look into checking them out first. If I can save $70, I'd be happy to do so.

A few years back, around '99, I used to deliver parts for a volkswagen dealership. I remember delivering VR6 o2 sensors, and they were over $400. Makes you thankful you're driving a ford.

Jeff

 

[Roland69]

wow at worst I get 22 MPG and most time I get 24-25...best was 25.8 MPG.

 

[JChalfan]

roland, what kind of driving do you do? I've been able to get clost to 25mpg on the freeway, but none of my 5.0's has ever gotten 20+ around town.

Jeff

 

[vristang]

For reference only...

If I stay off the throttle in city I will get about 16-17mpg. The worst I have hit is 15mpg.

On the highway I will get just over 20mpg, pretty consitantly.

My city mileage is within 5mpg of my highway mileage.
That may be different for others though.

jason

 

[JChalfan]

jason, before my SC install, I was getting about 15mpg around town, off the gas.

Does the difference between my 15mpg and your 16-17mpg sound like you would expect from worn O2 sensors, if that's my problem?

A few years ago I really couldn't have cared less about gas mileage. But with prices like they are now, I'd really love to pick up an extra 2 MPG.

I used to have a '90 5.0, stock except for headers, offroad h-pipe and 3.55 gears. I drove it to lake tahoe, and averaged about 23mpg with the AC on, doing about 90 the whole way. I was pretty impressed with that.

Jeff

 

[vristang]

JChalfan -
Well, the part I am having a hard time getting my mind around is the fact that most of your driving is in the city. Most often when people check their fuel economy it is in highway driving. I only posted my numbers so that you could see what a typical difference is between these 2 cycles might be.

I am not sure if O2s would cause that much of a drop, but seems possible.

Let's hit the basics.
You said you didn't get an O2 code? Did you get any other codes?
What are your coolant temps?
Are you using an aftermarket MAF? Which one?
What size injectors?
What computer?
Have you checked your engine vac signal?
How bout compression?

I'm starting to reach a little so I better quite.

jason

 

[fivespeedsteed]

hmmm

 

[HISSIN50]

Around town milage is horrible to gauge (no pun intended) because there are simply too many variables. Sitting in bad traffic and idling a lot versus simply getting through town at 35 mph pretty clean can be huge. Idling really (obviously) wipes out milage. I wouldnt even consider any milage concerns unless I had been able to keep the car moving a fair amount of the time.

 

[Roland69]

I drive around town on and off with the throttle and some highway and get 22........strait highway and a little town I get about 25. That's 10 Km's over the speed limmit driving about 90-100 Kp/h...I'm sure I could make it get 17-18 if I drove the snot out of it lol.

 

[JChalfan]

JChalfan -
Well, the part I am having a hard time getting my mind around is the fact that most of your driving is in the city. Most often when people check their fuel economy it is in highway driving. I only posted my numbers so that you could see what a typical difference is between these 2 cycles might be.

I am not sure if O2s would cause that much of a drop, but seems possible.

Let's hit the basics.
You said you didn't get an O2 code? Did you get any other codes?
What are your coolant temps?
Are you using an aftermarket MAF? Which one?
What size injectors?
What computer?
Have you checked your engine vac signal?
How bout compression?

I'm starting to reach a little so I better quite.

jason

jason,

only code I have is 67, which either has to do with neutral switch (my car is a 5-speed), or something to do with A/C. Nothing engine performance related as far as I can tell.

Coolant temp on the stock gauge is always a bit below half when the car is fully warmed up. Unfortunately I don't have a better temp gauge.

Just installed a Pro-M 75mm MAF, calibrated for my 24lb injectors, which have less than 15k miles on them. Before that I had a C&L 73mm, also calibrated for 24lbs. Before I installed the SC, which is when I was getting 15mpg, I had a stock MAF and stock (130k) 19lb injectors.

Computer is a A9L.

Haven't checked the vacuum signal. What should it be on a stock engine at idle?

compression was between 160 and 170 on all cylinders.

I know MPG is much easier to gauge on the freeway than driving around town. Unfortunately, almost all my driving is around town. If I go on the freeway, it's usually not for more than about 5 miles. Most of my city driving doesn't involve going much over 40, with plenty of stop lights.

I would really like to check my highway MPG, to see if it's similar to what my previous 5.0's have gotten (low 20's). Hopefully I'll get a chance to take it out on the road this summer. Right now it's pretty much to school and back.

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.

Jeff