- Jun 29, 2004
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Props back at ya, Go HoTO - excellent post!Go HoTO! said:Leave the MAF alone. That's my advice. There is absolute ZERO sense to change it out on a stock or even moderately modded Mustang. The MAF should not be replaced until the meter is pegged (voltage) and that won't happen until making much more HP than stock. The stock MAF is good until at least 350 rwhp. Lot of guys waisting money replacing the MAFs on their cars.
The only exception is to use the C&L 80mm MAF kit. It is NOT a true MAF replacement as it still uses the stock MAF electronics, but instead tricks the MAF into making your car run lean.....this adds more HP. Many guys use these with success, but I think it is a bad mod due to the lean condition especially if you start doing more mods. The C&L will add as much as 23 rwhp but I would only use it if you can get your car dyno tuned which is another big expense. Again, it is not a MAF replacement in the true sense.
Replacing the TB is a good mod but ONLY is you replace the plenum as well. The TB alone will actually cause you to loose hp. There is a big argument as to which TB to use 70 mm or 75 mm. The selection depends on which plenum you use. The dyno results I have seen will pretty much net you about 10 hp and 12 ft-lbs with the combo especially at higher rpms. It's a good mod, but about $400 for both.
I recomend the Acufab Plenum with the 70 mm TB or the C&L Plenum with the 75 mm TB. They seem to be the best combinations, but they all work about the same.
What he said. The Pro-M 80mm MAM dyno tested a gain of only +0.8 rwhp showing the stock MAM is not a restriction on a stock n/a motor.Go HoTO! said:Leave the MAF alone. That's my advice. There is absolute ZERO sense to change it out on a stock or even moderately modded Mustang. The MAF should not be replaced until the meter is pegged (voltage) and that won't happen until making much more HP than stock. The stock MAF is good until at least 350 rwhp. Lot of guys waisting money replacing the MAFs on their cars.
I recomend the Acufab Plenum with the 70 mm TB or the C&L Plenum with the 75 mm TB. They seem to be the best combinations, but they all work about the same.
yep, i had the same experience with my 1996, but it was in the winter. i removed it within a month. i have since sold the 1996 and have a 1995 5.0. i'm going to try it out on that, but i have a TwEECer now so I can put in the right flow numbers ...Go HoTO! said:I removed my C&L due to pinging and miss-fires. It happened as soon as the weather warmed up....I was running over 30% leaner than stock.
Rio96 said:Has anyone EVER -->measured<-- the pressure drop across
the stock Maf when the engine is at full power?
well i have to disagree there, a good tune on a full bolt on car(minus a bullitt intake and headers) have shown good gains. The new SCT mail order chips are good also. I know my car is in need of a little tweaking from the mail order ship i have.Go HoTO! said:Not that I have ever seen, but a MAF is different in that it is measuring (as the name states) mass air flow. This is different than just measuring the amount of air. The MAF takes velocity, volume, and barometric data. Now, I may be a little off-base here, so bare with me, but I think I am making my point.
Modern cars are much more sophisticated and come out of the box already with a much better tune. As a result, modifications do not have the amount of benefits as they did on older cars.
When it comes to mods on 99+ Mustangs:
7 - You don't need a tune until you have done more that just the normal bolt-ons (unless you are having a problem or have added a MAF). I have never seen a dyno tune do much more than add very few hp on a stock or lightly modded mustang. Not worth the $.
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