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Mass Air Flow Conversion Best First Mod?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ALP33
  • Start date Start date Jun 28, 2017
A

ALP33

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  • Jun 28, 2017
  • #1
Hello,
I am new to the I just picked up my 88 LX 5.0 about two weeks ago. My Sted dad has an 88 GT. While researching first mods I would like to do he advised me before making any major enhancements it is best to convert to mass air.

My question is as follows. Is this the best course of action? I would like to slowly build the car into a fun daily for when it's nice out and a weekend here and there at the strip.

Any advice is appreciated

P.s. if there is already a thread on this please bump I did a search without turning any good results up
 

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#2
  • Jun 29, 2017
  • #2
Mass air conversion is a good start, IMO
 
A

ALP33

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karthief said:
Mass air conversion is a good start, IMO
Click to expand...

What would be "ok" to do before the conversion?

Cold air intake
Under drive pulleys
Long tube headers
 
D

Deleted member 215073

Jun 29, 2017
#4
  • Jun 29, 2017
  • #4
Subframe connectors.
 
Reactions: Noobz347

Dan02gt

mazing how much gas smell came from that tiny hole
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#5
  • Jun 29, 2017
  • #5
ALP33 said:
What would be "ok" to do before the conversion?

Cold air intake
Under drive pulleys
Long tube headers
Click to expand...

I wouldn't do any of these.

The cold air is useless and the Mass air one is different from the Speed Density one. Pull the snorkel if it's still there and stick with the stock air box. It work well.

Under drive pulleys will cause your electrical, cooling, and A/C systems to run like crap for 3-5 HP so I wouldn't recommend them.

Long tubes are a complete pain in the ass for the HP they give you. Especially on a stock car. You will hate them anytime you need to work on the car.

Make sure your engine is in top running condition. If it hasn't had a tune up in a while do plugs, wires, cap, and fuel filter.
Set your timing to 13-14* and run at least 91 octane.
I would definitely do the Mass Air Swap.
I would also change the gears to 3.55s or 3.73s. Gears make a huge difference.
Then focus on the suspension, and brakes. Make sure they are in top working condition or come up with a plan to upgrade them (5 lug swap, coil-overs, or whatever)
Do sub-frame connectors and a K member brace!! They really help stiffen up the car.

To make any real power your going to need to swap the heads, cam, and intake.
 
A

ALP33

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#6
  • Jun 29, 2017
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Dan02gt said:
I wouldn't do any of these.

The cold air is useless and the Mass air one is different from the Speed Density one. Pull the snorkel if it's still there and stick with the stock air box. It work well.

Under drive pulleys will cause your electrical, cooling, and A/C systems to run like crap for 3-5 HP so I wouldn't recommend them.

Long tubes are a complete pain in the ass for the HP they give you. Especially on a stock car. You will hate them anytime you need to work on the car.

Make sure your engine is in top running condition. If it hasn't had a tune up in a while do plugs, wires, cap, and fuel filter.
Set your timing to 13-14* and run at least 91 octane.
I would definitely do the Mass Air Swap.
I would also change the gears to 3.55s or 3.73s. Gears make a huge difference.
Then focus on the suspension, and brakes. Make sure they are in top working condition or come up with a plan to upgrade them (5 lug swap, coil-overs, or whatever)
Do sub-frame connectors and a K member brace!! They really help stiffen up the car.

To make any real power your going to need to swap the heads, cam, and intake.
Click to expand...

Good info. I removed the snorkel the first day I had the car lol. I'm looking at a set of subframe connectors someone locally has. They are bolt ones which seam to be the best option for me because I can not weld and do not have access to someone who will for me. Are bolt ons worth it?

As far as how the car currently runs. Almost completely stock. Been lowered, has a custom x pipe, flow master 40s. Otherwise the car idles perfect and runs smooth.

Currently in the shop getting tuned up also clutch replaced and a few leaks repaired (oil pan, wheel cylinders and rear dif)
 
D

Deleted member 215073

Jun 29, 2017
#7
  • Jun 29, 2017
  • #7
A muffler shop should be able to weld subframe connectors in for you. I'd avoid the bolt in ones.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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Jun 29, 2017
#8
  • Jun 29, 2017
  • #8
You don't need Mass Air for any of those mods. You'll need mass air if you are debating on running certain camshafts, or adding a power adder like turbo or supercharger.

But until that point, you can leave the Speed Density system. Full exhaust, intake, throttle body, pulleys, even heads, and the car should still run and drive like stock. Speed density operates on vacuum levels inside the engine, so mods that don't change this dramatically are good to go.


I have Cobra intake, 65mmTB, pullies, shorty headers, cat-back, and still run the Speed Density setup on my '88. Still idle and drives like a stock car.
 
Reactions: ALP33 and General karthief

Noobz347

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#9
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  • #9
Without other modifications that make MAF conversion necessary, you're just adding another restriction to the inlet.


When I get to be as rich as some of these other dudes, I'll probably go back to speed density through a Holley or something.
 
Reactions: General karthief
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87AODGT

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Jun 30, 2017
#10
  • Jun 30, 2017
  • #10
leave it speed density unless you're doing a cam. everything else it can adjust for until you change the vacuum signal by throwing a cam in
 
Reactions: ALP33

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
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#11
  • Jun 30, 2017
  • #11
subframe connectors
rear end gears
cat back exhaust
good shifter
brake upgrade

Leave it SD until you decide to do an HCI swap or power adder
 

Boostedpimp

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#12
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  • #12
Don't waste your time or money on converting to mass air it's not needed until you go for a cam shaft change like mentioned above.

Biggest bang for the buck and to add maximum enjoyment out of your car on a daily basis would be to do a gear change on the rear end. Upgrade that ring and pinion set with some more aggressive like a 3.55 or 3.73 depending on your usage and it'll be the biggest seat of the pants improvement you can do without diving deep into the dark highly addictive waters of aftermarket horsepower.
 
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