Max 4.6 while maintain Boost Cap.

stang671

New Member
Dec 21, 2006
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Hey,
I was wondering if anyone knows the amount of hp a 4.6 2v can produce and still maintain the capability to use boost....the I have 97Gt that and i'm doing the upper PI setup and I was wondering about the rest of the engine...i understand to put in the Forge internals and all but i was wonding about the cam setup and etc...i also understand that boost and all depends on compression...and i know that most hp cars N/A have high compressions so I was wondering if anyone has put on together a great combination that works.....thanks for taking the time to read this...
 
for boosted engines low compression is better. for n/a higher compression is better.

i dont understang your question.
I was wondering if anyone knows the amount of hp a 4.6 2v can produce and still maintain the capability to use boost....

are you talking about compression?

cams for blown and n/a engines are different also. you need to decide on what your goals are and plan from there.
 
hes asking how much boost fluid he can put in the resevoir before the cap needs to be replaced with a performance boost fluid tank cap.



sorry, i had to :)

in all seriousness, are you asking how much boost, compression and power you can make while still being as safe as possible?

if you plan on going forged, the sky is the limit in terms of what your motor can handle unless your tuner is a dimwit. usually higher compression motors will run less boost, as the higher compression adds more heat to the equation, but they feel more "peppy" under the boost spectrum because there is a bit more power being provided by the motor itself before the boost kicks in. for a low compression, you can run more boost but it may feel more "laggy" or less torquey around town, due to the lack of compression. but lower compression is easier to tune and as far as ive seen, more reliable than higher compression boosted buildups.

now as far as stock, you can take the stock motor to decent areas. ive seen 450hp being the general consensus, being a conservative (safe) tune, a good head/cam combo, around 12psi with centrifugal sc and its aftercooler kit. the stock fuel system will need to be upgraded to meet the demands. now as far as how long it lasts, its all up to the driver. any setup wont last long if you flog it every light, if you treat it well, it will treat you well.

of course like i said, if you go forged, there are far more options out there, but it will get costly, and once past the 400 mark you will find what other weak areas these cars have, the driveline will take the brunt of the stresses. on a standard boosted stang setup on a GT, youre looking at roughly 5k after is all said and done, depending on which kit you get, if you get used, what other peripherals you need (gauges, tuning, fuel system, etc).
 
Sorry to confuse all.....I understand the need for lower compression for SC...and I was wondering what was the most HP someone has built a low compression SC motor...cause I want to add the SC after I have the motor built and run it for a while...hope that makes more sense....thanks for taking the time to read this....
 
You really dont need to lower compression. I think when VT builds theres they lower the compression by a hair but not much, I think thats what Jim told me.

As far as power goes it all depends on the parts you put in the engine. The skys the limit really, the more power you want to make the stonger internals you need to put in, plus more free flowing heads and what-not. I bought a forged bottom end from VT and they said its good up to 700 rwhp. I could ave bought a stronger one but I dont see the need 700 is way more than Ill ever go. Tim @ MPH has, I think, a 1000 rwhp GT he built.
 
if you have a running stock motor now, do the supercharger first. AIf you are going to spend the $$ on building a blower motor, you need to break it in right... and that requires boost. You may even decide not to crack into the engine after all. 450rwhp is enough for most people.

As for me, 9:1 is the best overall compression ration for a blower motor, its easy to tune, less likely to detonate, and still has some grunt before boost hits. Don't wanna wait for power? then ditch the Centri blower and get a roots style (if you got lots of $$) or a turbocharger (less $$) Centri is cheapest and easiest to install, and requires the least amount of modification to your car. If the car feels sluggish after adding it between low RPM and when boost hits, consider lower gears. If your pushing for 400rwhp and up, stay with something around a 3.73 or 3.90 gear. anything else will make 1st and most of 2nd gear useless.